DITCHBANGER
Expert
here is something i noticed...my right shock is 1/4" back than the left...i had all the plastic off and couldnt for the life of me find something bent..then i noticed on the lower a-arm that the arm itself was welded further back than the left side a-arm(where the bolt slides through)about a 1/4..when i bring it in for the ball joints which are warrantied,i will show him the different spacing on the weldBLUEBALLER said:unpride said:I have noticed play in my ball joints too which makes the spindle appear to be pushed back. If I measure it just sitting its about 1/2 an inch back but if I tug on it everything goes back right in place and stays like that. I know nothing is bent on the frame or A arms and the shock is still centered in the A-arms. I think the ball joints are just crap and are making everything appear to be off. Has anyone else noticed this? Im not ordering any parts im just going to keep riding it until something really breaks and its unrideable.
that's what my dealer thought as well, but after they installed the new balljoints, the springs were STILL 1/4" different than the nytro they had on the showroom floor. so, yes they are better, but something is still tweeked.
unpride
Expert
I havent found anything bent either and the shocks are centered. When I measure its about 1/2 inch off but when I pull on it, its fine I dont know I think the ball joints need to be replaced there is quite a bit of play
gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
DITCHBANGER said:here is something i noticed...my right shock is 1/4" back than the left...i had all the plastic off and couldnt for the life of me find something bent..then i noticed on the lower a-arm that the arm itself was welded further back than the left side a-arm(where the bolt slides through)about a 1/4..when i bring it in for the ball joints which are warrantied,i will show him the different spacing on the weldBLUEBALLER said:unpride said:I have noticed play in my ball joints too which makes the spindle appear to be pushed back. If I measure it just sitting its about 1/2 an inch back but if I tug on it everything goes back right in place and stays like that. I know nothing is bent on the frame or A arms and the shock is still centered in the A-arms. I think the ball joints are just crap and are making everything appear to be off. Has anyone else noticed this? Im not ordering any parts im just going to keep riding it until something really breaks and its unrideable.
that's what my dealer thought as well, but after they installed the new balljoints, the springs were STILL 1/4" different than the nytro they had on the showroom floor. so, yes they are better, but something is still tweeked.
Ditchbanger.......any chance you can post a picture.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I should have my front end back tomorrow and I'll post pics. Spindles will be welded, upper tie rod mounting is modified(to reduce bending at the top of the spindle), and I'll have heavy duty high quality greasable lower ball joints, and oil lites in the a-arms No more issues...EVER
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Copied from my thread in the mountain forum...
____________________________________________
Got my spindles back. As you can see in the pic a spacer was machined to fit inside the top of the spindle with a longer bolt to keep the top of the spindle from bending in. I also got all the oil-lite bushings pressed in the a-arms. Before I did I dropped them all in a tin can full of oil for a few hours and got it hot a couple times(to open up the pores in the bushings).
My new lower ball joints are in as well and are even greaseable. The dealer drilled the ball joint bolt holes bigger to fit a larger bolt. I got home and unbolted everything because one of them was sloppy. Well, none of the 4 bushings mic'd the same(OD's and ID's) and they're using too small of a bolt. Such a friggin joke for the amount of money. I'm getting the proper size bolt(13 mm), reaming the smallest ID bushing out a hair, and still have to modify the bushings a little. Not to mention the shoulder of the bolt only went halfway into the balljoint. WTH ever happen to quality work.
I swear, one of these days I'll have all the equipment to do my own fab.
____________________________________________
Got my spindles back. As you can see in the pic a spacer was machined to fit inside the top of the spindle with a longer bolt to keep the top of the spindle from bending in. I also got all the oil-lite bushings pressed in the a-arms. Before I did I dropped them all in a tin can full of oil for a few hours and got it hot a couple times(to open up the pores in the bushings).
My new lower ball joints are in as well and are even greaseable. The dealer drilled the ball joint bolt holes bigger to fit a larger bolt. I got home and unbolted everything because one of them was sloppy. Well, none of the 4 bushings mic'd the same(OD's and ID's) and they're using too small of a bolt. Such a friggin joke for the amount of money. I'm getting the proper size bolt(13 mm), reaming the smallest ID bushing out a hair, and still have to modify the bushings a little. Not to mention the shoulder of the bolt only went halfway into the balljoint. WTH ever happen to quality work.
I swear, one of these days I'll have all the equipment to do my own fab.
Attachments
chiefy
Newbie
Do you have any info on the regreasable lower ball joints? I am looking for a part number, manufacturer, anything really. Did the dealer provide these?
BLUEBALLER
Expert
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2005
- Messages
- 420
Are those modified yamaha balljoints or aftermarket?
minks_698
Pro
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2006
- Messages
- 128
- Location
- Wisconsin Rapids
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2016 Viper MTX 141
The Yamaha Demo rides truck is at our local dealer today and most of the new Nytros have around 1,000 miles on them.
Guess what?
The teflon insert on the bottom ball joint is going out or already gone. 07 up Phazer models have the same problem. They spent most of today pressing new joints in all affected units with, unfortunately, the same junk part. Hopefully Yam will have an updated piece soon, they are aware of the problem.
Guess what?
The teflon insert on the bottom ball joint is going out or already gone. 07 up Phazer models have the same problem. They spent most of today pressing new joints in all affected units with, unfortunately, the same junk part. Hopefully Yam will have an updated piece soon, they are aware of the problem.
chiefy
Newbie
I for one don't want to replace a bad part with a replacement bad part. That is why I am looking for info on an upgraded alternative. Mine is going to the dealer tomorrow but I don't see much of a point replacing the ball joints with like parts that will be toast in 200miles.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
BLUEBALLER said:Are those modified yamaha balljoints or aftermarket?
Aftermarket. My dealer did make me two new ones to replace the 2 that are so far out.
Topgun
Expert
So Nikolai, do those ball joints go in without modification?? I noticed today, both my lowers are toast after 1300 miles. Who makes em and where can a guy get em?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
The I.D. on the ball joints is 1/2" so you have to use a 1/2" bolt and drill the ball joint bolt holes out to 1/2". I used a 1/2"x3" axle bolt which worked perfect. My dealer won't be around much longer so I'm not sure what to tell you. I will have a lathe in the next month or two and plan on buying a bunch of the material so I can do some more. If you can wait till summer I might be able to help you.
Alatalo
TY 4 Stroke Master
Nikolai,
Any possibility that you have got information regarding the following dimensions of the stock ball joint...?
Outer diameter of outer race.
Height of outer race.
Approx. height of ball including the guides that stick out top and bottom.
Inner diameter of ball (where the bolt goes).
I am also looking at the possibility to use non-Yamaha parts since there are many high-quality options available for race cars.
Any possibility that you have got information regarding the following dimensions of the stock ball joint...?
Outer diameter of outer race.
Height of outer race.
Approx. height of ball including the guides that stick out top and bottom.
Inner diameter of ball (where the bolt goes).
I am also looking at the possibility to use non-Yamaha parts since there are many high-quality options available for race cars.
PureBlue
Expert
would a ATV ball-joint work off a 450 or a raptor. I see the clip is on the top on the atv and the clip is on the bottom on the Nytro. Could you reverse the ball-joint to work on the Nytro? If the joint is the same size.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
I posted this image in another thread on the topic. It shows the parts I made to fix the wonky ball joints on my sled.
The OD of the race is 1.380", thickness of race is 0.525"
Ball diameter is 1.125"
Thru hole diameter in ball is 0.40"
Length between journals on ball is 1.295"
My dealer is holding a set of ball joints for me (no innuendo intended). If someone would like them, let me know. Since I cut the races off, it’s unlikely that I’ll get mine replaced under the warranty.
The OD of the race is 1.380", thickness of race is 0.525"
Ball diameter is 1.125"
Thru hole diameter in ball is 0.40"
Length between journals on ball is 1.295"
My dealer is holding a set of ball joints for me (no innuendo intended). If someone would like them, let me know. Since I cut the races off, it’s unlikely that I’ll get mine replaced under the warranty.
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