Vmax540
Expert
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2005
- Messages
- 218
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 846
- Location
- Clarion Pa.
- Website
- www.vintagevmax.com
I know it is old but, still interesting. http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php ... pic=129142
Rider Profile:
Age: 25
Weight: 125 pounds
Height: 5�7�
Years Riding: 19
Previous 3 Sleds with Mileage:
2002 MX Z Renegade 600 DPM: 14,009 KM'S (8756mi) - 2 Motor Failures (No longer own)
2004 MX Z Renegade X 600 H.O. SDI: 7,247 KM'S (4529mi) - 1 Motor Failure (No longer own)
2005 MX Z Renegade X 800 H.O. PTEK: 15,684 KM'S (9,803 MI) - 3 Motor Failures (Still own)
Average Annual Mileage: 7000km (4375mi)
Current Phazer Mileage: 1800 km's (1125 MI)
I've broken things down into categories and mixed some together. Let's get to it!
Weight:
514 Pounds Dry. It doesn't even feel that much. This puppy feels light and agile and it float's over the powder. You'll find out why as you read on.
Fuel Mileage:
How does the good old 4 stroke stack up against BRP's SDI and PowerTEK systems? Very well, and even better than the larger Yammi 4 strokes based on my experience with the Attak last season. I ran her dry and got exactly 200 km's (125 MI) out of her riding hard enough with lots of mitt fulls of throttle on the lakes and in the powder. That mileage is on a 30L tank which is fitted on the mountain lite as opposed to the normal 40L tanks we have on our Rev's. That works out to almost 17 MPG (U.S) for you mile per gallon people. My PTEK gets about 12 to 14 MPG. 91 Octane is recommended for this motor in the phazer, but the PTEK's and SDI's call for it too. I run 87 in everything without any issues. Let the knock sensor do its job I say.
Oil Economy:
I didn't use or lose any. This motor holds only 3 litres of it, or 3 quarts. I've rolled the sled completely, and tipped it, but only on its right side...I've heard of oil leaking if its on its left side. If it happens, it will happen to me eventually. I've also read about breather issues from the oil reservoir when the sled is tipped. Some are experiencing a backflow of oil right into the airbox/intake.
Speed:
Remember the low gearing, (chaincase features 41/17 sprockets at a 2.41 ratio with 8 tooth drivers) and I get 125 km/h (78 MPH) MAX on hardpacked snow according to the dream-o-meter. Not sure how accurate it is, but I will find out when I get my GPS shortly. In flatland deep powder, I can average 85 km/h (53 MPH) wide open. She's got the grunt for boondocking, but she's no steep hill climber. More on that later.
Side Panels and Hood:
You know those little circlip things?
They're not so bad...except they're $8 a piece if you lose one. You gotta have something holding those panels on, and there's a handful of circlips doing the job. The clips work well in their half turn twist on and off, but you have to line them up perfectly which can require some patience. Some of the assembly around the headlights use gromets, which don't work the best, and others use actual allen bolts that twist into the frame the same way the circlips do...why not just use all circlips...I dunno. Some panels are also bolted on...again...just use circlips.
Either way, you gotta be careful taking everything off and aligning it back correctly when putting it on. It ain't no flip the hood or side panel, that's for sure.
Cold Weather Starting:
I don't know whether its a bad thing or a good thing, but I don't have much to tell you in this department. The coldest temp I've seen since picking up the phazer is -22 C (-8 F) which means we've had great weather. Oh yeah, no problem at that temperature of coarse with 0W - 30 syn. oil in her. I have a battery blanket installed as well as a coolant circulator. When I need them I'll let you know.
A Arms/Sway Bar:
The assembly looks good up front as far as durability goes but who knows, I haven't really smoked anything yet. There's reports of bolts backing off and parts coming loose up front, I've kept an eye on mine, so far so good. One thing I look at and am not comfortable with is the sway bar.
It hangs lower than the A-Arms and is just itching to catch a rock or log and bust off. When that happens I'll post pics.
Break in Period:
It was painful...staying at 8000 rpm or less for 160 km's (100 MI) of riding...that's about 30 km/h (19 MPH) at that RPM on these motors, but I did it. And then staying below 10,000 rpm until I hit 500 KM (300 MI), I did that too, but it was easier than the first block of miles.
Fit/Finish:
Yamaha does a nice job making things neat and tidy on this sled. It surly is an engineers work of art. Very nice all around as far as looks go. Lots of attention to detail with little knick knacks holding cables and such together, keeping things neat and tidy. I like it.
Engine:
Definitely the highlight of this machine (although the rider platform is a close second). You're only going to hear what you already know about this motor. 4 stroke equals torque, and there's plenty of it. The low end is excellent, pop the ski's, accelerate without any hesitation, and that grunt follows your thumb right through the mid range to the point where you think you're riding a 6 or 7 hundred big bore. Top end, well, you read it above, she just flatlines, but getting there is all the fun and if top speed isn't important to you, I guarantee the fun factor of this motor will not let you down one bit. The acceleration is amazing, however there is a rev limiter that I'm hitting from what looks to be my clutch set-up. I'll be working on that soon when I get my shop manual in. This fuel injection system is flawless, spot on without any hesitation on mine. Is it durable? I intend to find out over the next two seasons....and that brings me to....
Regular Maintenance:
BRP launched a campaign of two outlining the high maintenance of 4 stroke engine's. If the manual is correct that comes with these Phazers, then BRP was sucking wind when they wrote all that jibberish 4 stroke literature. I'm not sure why, but the entire sled requires very, very little maintenance compared to my Renegade. I've got my Renegade in the garage ever 800 km's (500 MI) for at least a suspension greasing and a minor check-up. The Phazer calls for regular maintenance every 4000 km's (2500 MI). If it really operates flawlessly with that little of attention, then I'll be one happy rider! So what maintenance is involved? Well the oil change is the biggest one, seems guys are able to do it now in about 3 or 4 hours. It isn't as simply as pull a plug and change a filter...of coarse, the filter on these motors only needs to be changed every 20,000 km's (12,000 MI) anyway. Yes, you read that one correctly....which is fine by many since the filter is in a tight spot. Let's see, what else? How about idle speed and fuel injection synchronization...every 4000 km's (2500 MI)....better bring it to the dealer so it can be hooked up to the laptop right? Wrong. All these adjustments are made with your shop manual in hand and a screwdriver. So what about expensive labour and timing belts like BRP claims? Well, maybe Yamaha is hiding something but there's no mention of it in their manual. There is a necessary valve clearance adjustment that has to be made though...but you can't likely resale the unit twice before that's even needed at a rated 40,000 km's (25,000 MI). Again, if this is all this machine needs to run great through its lifespan, I'll find out, just give me a season or two. Let's get back to the woodwork around the motor shall we?
Tunnel:
It has two holes in it.
One near the front of the track just after the heat exchanger and one at the rear of the track. Both holes are designed to allow snow to cool the exhaust pipe. Temperatures from the exhaust gases are hot and Yamaha doesn�t recommend covering up the holes but it is being done by many and I will be waiting for more test results. Snow dust is less of a problem coming out of the hole compared to ice build-up.
What happens is the snow melts on the pipe, turns to water and drips down onto the tunnel and running boards and freezes as it makes its way to your feet resulting in some slippery running boards after a long ride, and your ski pants being stuck to the sides of the tunnel! Safety issue? I think so. Dismounting from the sled is more difficult than you think when your legs are stuck to the sides. I'll be in touch with Yamaha directly on this one. There are tunnel panels available, I think they should come stock on these machines because this issue is more of a design flaw than anything else and more importantly a safety issue. The rear of the tunnel is very thin. They certainly tried to save every pound they could. You can�t put a hitch or rack on it without some well thought out reinforcements.
Running Boards:
They have good traction, they are wide enough and they have flat footwells! Way to go Yamaha!
The rear of them also angle up, which is great! Its just like having the summit footrests installed. Other than the ice buildup from riding on hard packed, when riding in deep snow they get clogged completely,
but not much worse than my Rev. I'd like to know how many of you are 'for' and 'against' heated running boards. I know a few guys with them, and they work well. I commonly hear complaints about 'what if I smoke a rock, what if..." If they work well, I think I want them. I'm tired of frozen boards. I�ve even watched the tunnel cap itself with a layer of snow, but eventually it fell out. The toe holds are awesome, I like how the tops of them aren�t covered, so when you ARE removing snow buildup you can get your hand in there and push it all out. I even find myself standing on top of the toe holds when the running boards become too clogged with snow.
Storage:
One spot.
A small tool holder just below the exhaust pipe on the rear of the tunnel. It will hold a few tools, a belt and your manual. Maybe one mitt if you squish it good and tight. Better storage than the hole in the seat on the Rev mountain seats, but not by much. Things in there certainly get wet as well. This little compartment gets a lot of ice and snow buildup on it from the hole in the tunnel.
Exhaust:
It is located out the back, just above the rear storage compartment. The heat from it eliminates the idea of placing anything back there too close to the outlet, however, I continue to strap my back pack to the rearmost portion of the tunnel.
The pack gets warm, it doesn�t get hot, and I haven�t melted anything. Some people have, likely because their things were too close to the exhaust outlet. As for the sound? I call it a cross between an ATV and a chainsaw. I like it, although I've heard some audio of it online that simply does not do it justice.
Track:
14 wide, 144 long and 2� lug.
It�s a great track and I hereby call for it with a 15" wide version on the Attak! Come on Yamaha!!. It is surprisingly forgiving on hard packed and it is great in the powder with excellent hook up, no complaints at all.
Handling:
It�s a mountain specific boon docking sled and it handles amazingly in flat land powder. You only have to think about which way you want this machine to lean and it will do it. With little rider input the machine is easily maneuverable and tracks well in the deep stuff. It hooks up very well while climbing �hills�, but I don�t think you�ll be climbing any serious mountains with this puppy, 80 HP just isn�t enough. It carves like a dream, and is a well balanced sled no matter which way your are turning it over.
On hard packed trails it handles surprisingly well. It�s a narrow ski stance, so the tippy feel is normal but as long as you enjoy telling the sled where to go with body language, it�ll handle the trails as well. It isn�t a point and shoot machine...144� of track length means you gotta slow down in the corners, but what are you doing riding it on trails like that anyway? Well, I do, it�s the terrain here between lakes, no it won�t keep up to a rev in the trails of coarse, but it will leave my Renegade stuck at the bottom of the hill or left behind in the deep flat land powder simply because of the phazer�s floatation characteristics up front, and the gearing is so low it crawls to hook up in the loose stuff. Very impressive. I've been shyed away from the Summit's by my dealer in the past, but I think I would even prefer an X Package Summit over the Renegade. Having that extra fun factor for the powder just outweights having all that bump capability in our terrain up here.
Suspension:
It�s a mountain sled. It�s got soft shocks and low end everything up front and out back, but I was impressed with the plush feel of the suspension on this machine, but I'm also as heavy as a bag of flour.
Even being the bottom end of the shock selection, these will handle rough trail in between your powder bowls for someone my size as long as you take it easy enough. One issue I notice from all the ice buildup and melting in the track area, some of the idler wheels freeze up and can result in lopsided wear and tear on the wheels or track. There�s a lot of idlers in there for this 144 and I keep an eye on ice block formation around the wheels. It�s no jumper sled either, even in deep stuff, unless it�s ultra soft fluff, the shocks will bottom...maybe stiffening up everything would help that, but I prefer keeping the suspension soft for maximum hook up in deep snow. There is a spanner wrench that adjusts the springs on the two front ski shocks and the front track shock. I just got the tool and haven't played with adjustments yet. Drive too fast over the moguls and of coarse you�re bottoming out, but take it easy and it�s a surprisingly comfortable ride through rough stuff, especially with the rider positioning...ohhh, ahh, the reminds me...
Rider Forward?:
Yes, yes yes.
http://i137.photobuc...ics/Sitting.jpg
In fact, this sled is as rider forward as I�ve seen. Let me explain. Remember going from the ZX chassis to the Rev? It�s a higher up ride, felt tippy till you got used to it, but you weren�t sitting on the floor anymore and rider input did more for the machine with less fatigue. Enter Phazer...I kid you not when I say it�s like going from the ZX to the Rev all over again, except the categories change from Rev to FX Chassis. (I know you love how it says that on the sides of the machine) You are now even higher up, it�s even more tippy, but it�s the best positioning I�ve ever seen. When I get back on my Rev after riding the FX Chassis, I feel like my knees are crouched and I�m sitting too low. For those of you that don�t want the Rev to be more RT like, this is a chassis you will love. For those of you that complain of cramped knees on the rev, again, this is a chassis you will love. I refer to it as sitting on a bar stool, but a comfortable one. Your legs are stretched out downward even more than the Rev, it�s comfortable and even easier from the transition of sitting to standing than the Rev.
http://i137.photobuc...cs/Standing.jpg
Yes. It's true. You are definitely on the pivot point much like the Rev and the sled�s front and rear is absorbing the shock and abuse, not the rider. I give this platform a 10/10, and will outright say it is better than the Rev�s rider positioning. I haven't been on the other Phazers, but whichever one has the high end suspension package, LOOK OUT! As for knee contact with the panels, I wear guards under my ski pants for my rev, and they work great on the FX as well. I know many look at the Phazer and refer to it as a pointy, jagged piece of plastic with its panel shapes, but trust me, it�s a great design and looks will be forgotten while you're riding this puppy.
Seat:
The seat is narrow and just like a dirt bike.
http://i137.photobuc...20Pics/Seat.jpg
Your legs are spread apart less, almost like having them in front/below you and less to the side. Many guys who sat on them in the showrooms said they are too soft...in the cold, you�ll love that softness because I get more feedback from people I let ride this unit that the seat is too hard! I think it�s comfortable and maneuverable when shifting from running board to running board....it is a high seat, so getting that foot up and over the rear to change boards takes a time or two to get used to.
Ski�s:
You can lift them off the snow easily at almost any RPM. The torque is amazing and just plain fun. The stance is 38.6 inches for easy carving and maneuverability.
http://i137.photobuc...20Pics/Skis.jpg
The ski�s themselves handle nicely in the snow and carve nicely as well, no need for an upgrade here, they have a deep keel and remind me of the powder pro�s.
LCD Guage (computer manual written below):
What we have here is a massive amount of information combined into one small screen that�s not too small and the readouts are excellent.
http://i137.photobuc...cs/LCDGuage.jpg
Let�s get through the list. Speedometer readout can be switched between MPH and Km/h. The numbers are nice and large. How accurate is it? I have no idea yet. Then we have a selectable column below the speedo readout that features a trip meter, RPM reading and odometer. A button on the top left side of the LCD Guage feathers between each of the 3 settings. A button just below that will reset the trip meter, or change your MPH to Km/h when held down during odometer output. No hour meter here. Below that selectable reading is another reading serving 3 more functions. A bar graph readout indicates your fuel level, quite accurately I might add. When the handlebar warmer button is pressed this graph shows a readout of heat levels for the bars. When the thumb warmer button is pressed, this graph shows a readout of heat levels for the thumb warmer. Each time you vary between the 3, a symbol is displayed to the right of the graph or above it indicating what the graph is reading out...thumb, handlbar, or fuel. Next, between this graph and the trip/odometer/rpm numbers are a series of lights that illuminate depending on the warning issue. From left to right there is a low fuel light, a low oil light, an overheat light, and a check engine light. Each of these lights work in combination with other display features, but first, there�s a few more lights and buttons to tell you about. At the bottom of the LCD guage underneath all of the above, there are 4 more lights. From left to right they display as a warning light, and engine �cold start� temperature light, a high beam light and a knock sensor indicator (nice touch!) What are all these lights for? Well, they work in some cases with the display information I explained initially. The lights down low on this guage are designed to catch your eye, rather than just displaying the issue within the LCD portion of the guage itself. For example, when you have low fuel, the warning light on the bottom will come on along with the low fuel indicator. Same with the low oil or overheat light, or check engine light. In more serious cases where immediate attention is required, the warning light will flash along with the indicator light that is determining the issue. But that�s not all. The trip/odometer/rpm indicator also acts as a �code� readout for errors with electronics in the engine compartment. I have had a couple of errors occur, some caused on purpose and others accidentially. Unfortunately the manual doesn�t contain the a listing of error codes and what they mean, but the shop manual does. I had the warning light flashing, along with the check engine light, and the error code �85� in the trip/odometer/rpm area. This meant that the low oil sensor was disconnected or failing. One would think this would send the machine into �safe mode� (yes, there is a safe mode to limit rpm's and engine damage in certain circumstances) and keep the RPM�s low, but it didn�t because there�s other sensors in there to back each other up. In this case there is a float at the bottom of the oil reservoir (dry sump remember)...should that float indicate no oil, the machine will shut down and won�t start as long as that float does not detect any oil. Pretty cool fail safe. When I�ve rolled the machine on its side or upside down (no, the speedo didn�t break off despite its high mounting location, I happen to like where it is) this oil sensor shut down the engine until I tipped it back over and reset the motor by turning the key off, then on again. Now this problem indicated another error code but I don�t remember what number it was. Sure is nice to have such a specific readout though...as long as you can look up the error code, you can self diagnose the problem and look into it yourself. On the Rev�s, a flashing engine light means a variety of issues along with beeping alarms...they just aren�t specific enough to track down an issue without plugging it into the laptop....laptop?? What�s that?? No laptop for these machines remember. Anywho, I also had fun testing the frozen throttle sensor...I manually made the throttle stick open and it limited the engine�s RPM�s below engagement speed and gave another error code. Cool stuff. Back to the lights on the guage, the cold start temperature light as i call it is there to let you know the engine temperature is too cold to drive away with, and it will actually not allow engine engagement as long as the light is lit....nobody driving off without warming up their engine�s now....skipping the high beam light we get to the knock sensor light. Ah yes, how many times have we said we�d like to know on our rev�s when that sensor is knocking back the timing because of bad fuel? This light not only comes on, it comes on in different ways to indicate the degree of timing change and just how poor the fuel quality is. Pretty sweet...I�ve never seen it go off yet. While 91 Octane is recommended for this engine, you don�t have to run it. Run 87 and the sensor adjusts for about a 3HP loss, but without the light coming on...it isn�t poor fuel, just an octane change. And finally, who can forget the special little button and lights on the right side of the LCD guage. Drive and Reverse. Each has a light indicating your direction, and the bottom switches between the two using a servo in the chaincase. This type of reverse is handy � however it does have it�s glitches, but minor ones. When the machine has been sitting overnight and the chaincase oil is cold, the servo has trouble switching out of gear. For example, if you left your sled in drive the night before, and want to immediately go into reverse in the morning, there�s a good chance the servo won�t lock into place because the chaincase oil is too cold and thick. Either wait until you have driven the thing for a few minutes to use reverse, or use a track stand to get the oil moving and the problem is solved...but don�t shut it off in reverse and leave it there overnight or you may be stuck in reverse for a while till things get moving. Likewise, don�t park somewhere where you need to back out first thing in case those gears just won�t mesh. Do your reversing while the chaincase oil has had a chance to heat up. Yes, a pain in the rear end, but nothing major. Would you rather have this or a motor that doesn�t feed itself oil while it spins in reverse? (I'm not sure that's accurate with RER or PERC) That sums up the little computer ON the handlebars, bringing us too...
Handlebars:
They are nice and tall.
http://i137.photobuc...cs/BarRiser.jpg
Taller than X Package MX Z�s and Renegades. The bars are slightly curved.
http://i137.photobuc...NG/PICT0009.jpg
One thing is, where�s the J Hooks Yamaha?? SMACK! Why the Phazers got them and the Mountain Lite didn�t is a little odd. Regardless they are a nice set of handlebars with decent functionality. The thumb and handle bar warmer buttons are located on the left handlebar, just within reach of your thumb while riding.
http://i137.photobuc...rControlBox.jpg
They cycle through their settings from low to high and over again. For example, you push the button until the graph on the LCD shows you the heat intensity that you want. If you accidentially press it too many times it�s a minor pain to cycle through the 9 settings again, or if you have it set in an area and you want it to be a notch or two lower, you�ve got to press it 7 times or hold it down and wait a second or two, no big deal. Location of the high beam and warmers are okay but could be closer to the thumb. Heck I�ve got an even better idea for Yamaha. Instead of the cycle method, add a push button just like the high beam that toggles between thumb and hand warmer and make that switch on the left turn the warmers up or down again, just like when you had a sepearte toggle for the thumb warmers and bar warmers on opposite ends of the bars. And get those buttons closer to the thumb...why is that switch so bulky anyway? The parking break is nice, easy and cable driven. The breaks are nice as well. The throttle is good, feels good. Kill switch on top is good.
http://i137.photobuc...cs/Throttle.jpg
Heat from the grips and thumb warmer could be stronger, but it isn�t bad. While there is a full 9 step range of adjustability from OFF to HIGH, I think they could cut that range in half and it would still be adjustable enough. They could also bump up the heat that comes out on high. Grab strap on the bars is a little smaller than on the Renegade but it is solid and I use it a lot.
Windshields and Wind Protection:
The stock large windshield does a great job at blocking all the wind.
http://i137.photobuc.../Funeral002.jpg
Someone patented the term �billboard� on this site when the GTX�s came out. This is much the same. I purchased a medium windshield and it works great!
http://i137.photobuc...mWindshield.jpg
Riding without a windshield warmer than �20 C (-4 F) isn�t bad and I love the look of the sled without any windshield the best.
http://i137.photobuc...oWindsheild.jpg
As far as wind protection, the knees get a full blast of air.
http://i137.photobuc...eeWindBreak.jpg
See my knee's are the only real portion of the body facing wind? Yamaha offers deflectors, stock on some phazers but not the mountain lite. Again that�s where my shin guards come in handy. The rest of the protection is the same as the Rev, it really isn�t a cold sled to ride at all despite initial concerns.
Engine Cooling:
With initial concerns of overheating from lack of heat exchanger coverage and the front rad clogging up,
http://i137.photobuc...rPluggedRad.jpg
I haven�t had the engine overheat, no heat light, nothing. In powder the rad definitely clogs up, but the heat exchanger picks up the slack and I don�t worry about trying to clear the rad, it seems to clear itself up eventually. There is a fan behind it on the mountain lite, but I don�t think it is on the regular phazers. This fan blows air like a hovercraft! It's impressive and I think it helps push the heat around and thaw the buildup. I haven't had coolant flow out the overflow valve, but it's dripping somewhere that I haven't been able to find yet. It's an intermittent drip, maybe when they installed the circ heater a clamp came loose. Unfortunately I haven�t been able to ride below �22 C because it just hasn�t been colder than that. I think that in powder at very cold temps, the clogged rad could become an issue if there is ice buildup around the heat exchanger at the same time. Even on the Rev below �30 C (-22 F), ice forms a shell around the heat exchangers and needs to be banged out or the temps continuously climb in the motor. As for the top half of the rad being exposed to objects, it is a concern and should have some additional protection. Like ice buildup on the running boards from melting snow in the tunnel, I consider this a design flaw and won�t be surprised if Yamaha makes some adjustments on future units. I initially thought the rad carried engine oil through it but I am wrong. Last week I read snowtech saying the mountain lite has an �oil cooler�....from what I gather, it's a disc on the front of the motor above the oil filter and it works by oil and coolant passing by one another in this disc. The coolant simply cools off the oil, exchanging heat from one to the other.
Conclusion:
Sorry it took so long to get this out, but I wanted to do it right! I'm sure there's things I've missed, so if you have questions just fire away and I'll do my best.
Overall I give this unit a 9 out of 10. Yamaha did a great job as far as I can tell, and they've sold me on the FX chassis and this 500cc motor. Very impressed indeed. So much so, that if I could get a rack and hitch on this exact sled, I'd no longer own a Rev and I'd have two Yamaha's sitting in my driveway. Needless to say, I have a new favourite machine. The Backup sled has become the #1 choice in my garage.
Rider Profile:
Age: 25
Weight: 125 pounds
Height: 5�7�
Years Riding: 19
Previous 3 Sleds with Mileage:
2002 MX Z Renegade 600 DPM: 14,009 KM'S (8756mi) - 2 Motor Failures (No longer own)
2004 MX Z Renegade X 600 H.O. SDI: 7,247 KM'S (4529mi) - 1 Motor Failure (No longer own)
2005 MX Z Renegade X 800 H.O. PTEK: 15,684 KM'S (9,803 MI) - 3 Motor Failures (Still own)
Average Annual Mileage: 7000km (4375mi)
Current Phazer Mileage: 1800 km's (1125 MI)
I've broken things down into categories and mixed some together. Let's get to it!
Weight:
514 Pounds Dry. It doesn't even feel that much. This puppy feels light and agile and it float's over the powder. You'll find out why as you read on.
Fuel Mileage:
How does the good old 4 stroke stack up against BRP's SDI and PowerTEK systems? Very well, and even better than the larger Yammi 4 strokes based on my experience with the Attak last season. I ran her dry and got exactly 200 km's (125 MI) out of her riding hard enough with lots of mitt fulls of throttle on the lakes and in the powder. That mileage is on a 30L tank which is fitted on the mountain lite as opposed to the normal 40L tanks we have on our Rev's. That works out to almost 17 MPG (U.S) for you mile per gallon people. My PTEK gets about 12 to 14 MPG. 91 Octane is recommended for this motor in the phazer, but the PTEK's and SDI's call for it too. I run 87 in everything without any issues. Let the knock sensor do its job I say.
Oil Economy:
I didn't use or lose any. This motor holds only 3 litres of it, or 3 quarts. I've rolled the sled completely, and tipped it, but only on its right side...I've heard of oil leaking if its on its left side. If it happens, it will happen to me eventually. I've also read about breather issues from the oil reservoir when the sled is tipped. Some are experiencing a backflow of oil right into the airbox/intake.
Speed:
Remember the low gearing, (chaincase features 41/17 sprockets at a 2.41 ratio with 8 tooth drivers) and I get 125 km/h (78 MPH) MAX on hardpacked snow according to the dream-o-meter. Not sure how accurate it is, but I will find out when I get my GPS shortly. In flatland deep powder, I can average 85 km/h (53 MPH) wide open. She's got the grunt for boondocking, but she's no steep hill climber. More on that later.
Side Panels and Hood:
You know those little circlip things?
They're not so bad...except they're $8 a piece if you lose one. You gotta have something holding those panels on, and there's a handful of circlips doing the job. The clips work well in their half turn twist on and off, but you have to line them up perfectly which can require some patience. Some of the assembly around the headlights use gromets, which don't work the best, and others use actual allen bolts that twist into the frame the same way the circlips do...why not just use all circlips...I dunno. Some panels are also bolted on...again...just use circlips.
Either way, you gotta be careful taking everything off and aligning it back correctly when putting it on. It ain't no flip the hood or side panel, that's for sure.
Cold Weather Starting:
I don't know whether its a bad thing or a good thing, but I don't have much to tell you in this department. The coldest temp I've seen since picking up the phazer is -22 C (-8 F) which means we've had great weather. Oh yeah, no problem at that temperature of coarse with 0W - 30 syn. oil in her. I have a battery blanket installed as well as a coolant circulator. When I need them I'll let you know.
A Arms/Sway Bar:
The assembly looks good up front as far as durability goes but who knows, I haven't really smoked anything yet. There's reports of bolts backing off and parts coming loose up front, I've kept an eye on mine, so far so good. One thing I look at and am not comfortable with is the sway bar.
It hangs lower than the A-Arms and is just itching to catch a rock or log and bust off. When that happens I'll post pics.
Break in Period:
It was painful...staying at 8000 rpm or less for 160 km's (100 MI) of riding...that's about 30 km/h (19 MPH) at that RPM on these motors, but I did it. And then staying below 10,000 rpm until I hit 500 KM (300 MI), I did that too, but it was easier than the first block of miles.
Fit/Finish:
Yamaha does a nice job making things neat and tidy on this sled. It surly is an engineers work of art. Very nice all around as far as looks go. Lots of attention to detail with little knick knacks holding cables and such together, keeping things neat and tidy. I like it.
Engine:
Definitely the highlight of this machine (although the rider platform is a close second). You're only going to hear what you already know about this motor. 4 stroke equals torque, and there's plenty of it. The low end is excellent, pop the ski's, accelerate without any hesitation, and that grunt follows your thumb right through the mid range to the point where you think you're riding a 6 or 7 hundred big bore. Top end, well, you read it above, she just flatlines, but getting there is all the fun and if top speed isn't important to you, I guarantee the fun factor of this motor will not let you down one bit. The acceleration is amazing, however there is a rev limiter that I'm hitting from what looks to be my clutch set-up. I'll be working on that soon when I get my shop manual in. This fuel injection system is flawless, spot on without any hesitation on mine. Is it durable? I intend to find out over the next two seasons....and that brings me to....
Regular Maintenance:
BRP launched a campaign of two outlining the high maintenance of 4 stroke engine's. If the manual is correct that comes with these Phazers, then BRP was sucking wind when they wrote all that jibberish 4 stroke literature. I'm not sure why, but the entire sled requires very, very little maintenance compared to my Renegade. I've got my Renegade in the garage ever 800 km's (500 MI) for at least a suspension greasing and a minor check-up. The Phazer calls for regular maintenance every 4000 km's (2500 MI). If it really operates flawlessly with that little of attention, then I'll be one happy rider! So what maintenance is involved? Well the oil change is the biggest one, seems guys are able to do it now in about 3 or 4 hours. It isn't as simply as pull a plug and change a filter...of coarse, the filter on these motors only needs to be changed every 20,000 km's (12,000 MI) anyway. Yes, you read that one correctly....which is fine by many since the filter is in a tight spot. Let's see, what else? How about idle speed and fuel injection synchronization...every 4000 km's (2500 MI)....better bring it to the dealer so it can be hooked up to the laptop right? Wrong. All these adjustments are made with your shop manual in hand and a screwdriver. So what about expensive labour and timing belts like BRP claims? Well, maybe Yamaha is hiding something but there's no mention of it in their manual. There is a necessary valve clearance adjustment that has to be made though...but you can't likely resale the unit twice before that's even needed at a rated 40,000 km's (25,000 MI). Again, if this is all this machine needs to run great through its lifespan, I'll find out, just give me a season or two. Let's get back to the woodwork around the motor shall we?
Tunnel:
It has two holes in it.
One near the front of the track just after the heat exchanger and one at the rear of the track. Both holes are designed to allow snow to cool the exhaust pipe. Temperatures from the exhaust gases are hot and Yamaha doesn�t recommend covering up the holes but it is being done by many and I will be waiting for more test results. Snow dust is less of a problem coming out of the hole compared to ice build-up.
What happens is the snow melts on the pipe, turns to water and drips down onto the tunnel and running boards and freezes as it makes its way to your feet resulting in some slippery running boards after a long ride, and your ski pants being stuck to the sides of the tunnel! Safety issue? I think so. Dismounting from the sled is more difficult than you think when your legs are stuck to the sides. I'll be in touch with Yamaha directly on this one. There are tunnel panels available, I think they should come stock on these machines because this issue is more of a design flaw than anything else and more importantly a safety issue. The rear of the tunnel is very thin. They certainly tried to save every pound they could. You can�t put a hitch or rack on it without some well thought out reinforcements.
Running Boards:
They have good traction, they are wide enough and they have flat footwells! Way to go Yamaha!
The rear of them also angle up, which is great! Its just like having the summit footrests installed. Other than the ice buildup from riding on hard packed, when riding in deep snow they get clogged completely,
but not much worse than my Rev. I'd like to know how many of you are 'for' and 'against' heated running boards. I know a few guys with them, and they work well. I commonly hear complaints about 'what if I smoke a rock, what if..." If they work well, I think I want them. I'm tired of frozen boards. I�ve even watched the tunnel cap itself with a layer of snow, but eventually it fell out. The toe holds are awesome, I like how the tops of them aren�t covered, so when you ARE removing snow buildup you can get your hand in there and push it all out. I even find myself standing on top of the toe holds when the running boards become too clogged with snow.
Storage:
One spot.
A small tool holder just below the exhaust pipe on the rear of the tunnel. It will hold a few tools, a belt and your manual. Maybe one mitt if you squish it good and tight. Better storage than the hole in the seat on the Rev mountain seats, but not by much. Things in there certainly get wet as well. This little compartment gets a lot of ice and snow buildup on it from the hole in the tunnel.
Exhaust:
It is located out the back, just above the rear storage compartment. The heat from it eliminates the idea of placing anything back there too close to the outlet, however, I continue to strap my back pack to the rearmost portion of the tunnel.
The pack gets warm, it doesn�t get hot, and I haven�t melted anything. Some people have, likely because their things were too close to the exhaust outlet. As for the sound? I call it a cross between an ATV and a chainsaw. I like it, although I've heard some audio of it online that simply does not do it justice.
Track:
14 wide, 144 long and 2� lug.
It�s a great track and I hereby call for it with a 15" wide version on the Attak! Come on Yamaha!!. It is surprisingly forgiving on hard packed and it is great in the powder with excellent hook up, no complaints at all.
Handling:
It�s a mountain specific boon docking sled and it handles amazingly in flat land powder. You only have to think about which way you want this machine to lean and it will do it. With little rider input the machine is easily maneuverable and tracks well in the deep stuff. It hooks up very well while climbing �hills�, but I don�t think you�ll be climbing any serious mountains with this puppy, 80 HP just isn�t enough. It carves like a dream, and is a well balanced sled no matter which way your are turning it over.
On hard packed trails it handles surprisingly well. It�s a narrow ski stance, so the tippy feel is normal but as long as you enjoy telling the sled where to go with body language, it�ll handle the trails as well. It isn�t a point and shoot machine...144� of track length means you gotta slow down in the corners, but what are you doing riding it on trails like that anyway? Well, I do, it�s the terrain here between lakes, no it won�t keep up to a rev in the trails of coarse, but it will leave my Renegade stuck at the bottom of the hill or left behind in the deep flat land powder simply because of the phazer�s floatation characteristics up front, and the gearing is so low it crawls to hook up in the loose stuff. Very impressive. I've been shyed away from the Summit's by my dealer in the past, but I think I would even prefer an X Package Summit over the Renegade. Having that extra fun factor for the powder just outweights having all that bump capability in our terrain up here.
Suspension:
It�s a mountain sled. It�s got soft shocks and low end everything up front and out back, but I was impressed with the plush feel of the suspension on this machine, but I'm also as heavy as a bag of flour.
Even being the bottom end of the shock selection, these will handle rough trail in between your powder bowls for someone my size as long as you take it easy enough. One issue I notice from all the ice buildup and melting in the track area, some of the idler wheels freeze up and can result in lopsided wear and tear on the wheels or track. There�s a lot of idlers in there for this 144 and I keep an eye on ice block formation around the wheels. It�s no jumper sled either, even in deep stuff, unless it�s ultra soft fluff, the shocks will bottom...maybe stiffening up everything would help that, but I prefer keeping the suspension soft for maximum hook up in deep snow. There is a spanner wrench that adjusts the springs on the two front ski shocks and the front track shock. I just got the tool and haven't played with adjustments yet. Drive too fast over the moguls and of coarse you�re bottoming out, but take it easy and it�s a surprisingly comfortable ride through rough stuff, especially with the rider positioning...ohhh, ahh, the reminds me...
Rider Forward?:
Yes, yes yes.
http://i137.photobuc...ics/Sitting.jpg
In fact, this sled is as rider forward as I�ve seen. Let me explain. Remember going from the ZX chassis to the Rev? It�s a higher up ride, felt tippy till you got used to it, but you weren�t sitting on the floor anymore and rider input did more for the machine with less fatigue. Enter Phazer...I kid you not when I say it�s like going from the ZX to the Rev all over again, except the categories change from Rev to FX Chassis. (I know you love how it says that on the sides of the machine) You are now even higher up, it�s even more tippy, but it�s the best positioning I�ve ever seen. When I get back on my Rev after riding the FX Chassis, I feel like my knees are crouched and I�m sitting too low. For those of you that don�t want the Rev to be more RT like, this is a chassis you will love. For those of you that complain of cramped knees on the rev, again, this is a chassis you will love. I refer to it as sitting on a bar stool, but a comfortable one. Your legs are stretched out downward even more than the Rev, it�s comfortable and even easier from the transition of sitting to standing than the Rev.
http://i137.photobuc...cs/Standing.jpg
Yes. It's true. You are definitely on the pivot point much like the Rev and the sled�s front and rear is absorbing the shock and abuse, not the rider. I give this platform a 10/10, and will outright say it is better than the Rev�s rider positioning. I haven't been on the other Phazers, but whichever one has the high end suspension package, LOOK OUT! As for knee contact with the panels, I wear guards under my ski pants for my rev, and they work great on the FX as well. I know many look at the Phazer and refer to it as a pointy, jagged piece of plastic with its panel shapes, but trust me, it�s a great design and looks will be forgotten while you're riding this puppy.
Seat:
The seat is narrow and just like a dirt bike.
http://i137.photobuc...20Pics/Seat.jpg
Your legs are spread apart less, almost like having them in front/below you and less to the side. Many guys who sat on them in the showrooms said they are too soft...in the cold, you�ll love that softness because I get more feedback from people I let ride this unit that the seat is too hard! I think it�s comfortable and maneuverable when shifting from running board to running board....it is a high seat, so getting that foot up and over the rear to change boards takes a time or two to get used to.
Ski�s:
You can lift them off the snow easily at almost any RPM. The torque is amazing and just plain fun. The stance is 38.6 inches for easy carving and maneuverability.
http://i137.photobuc...20Pics/Skis.jpg
The ski�s themselves handle nicely in the snow and carve nicely as well, no need for an upgrade here, they have a deep keel and remind me of the powder pro�s.
LCD Guage (computer manual written below):
What we have here is a massive amount of information combined into one small screen that�s not too small and the readouts are excellent.
http://i137.photobuc...cs/LCDGuage.jpg
Let�s get through the list. Speedometer readout can be switched between MPH and Km/h. The numbers are nice and large. How accurate is it? I have no idea yet. Then we have a selectable column below the speedo readout that features a trip meter, RPM reading and odometer. A button on the top left side of the LCD Guage feathers between each of the 3 settings. A button just below that will reset the trip meter, or change your MPH to Km/h when held down during odometer output. No hour meter here. Below that selectable reading is another reading serving 3 more functions. A bar graph readout indicates your fuel level, quite accurately I might add. When the handlebar warmer button is pressed this graph shows a readout of heat levels for the bars. When the thumb warmer button is pressed, this graph shows a readout of heat levels for the thumb warmer. Each time you vary between the 3, a symbol is displayed to the right of the graph or above it indicating what the graph is reading out...thumb, handlbar, or fuel. Next, between this graph and the trip/odometer/rpm numbers are a series of lights that illuminate depending on the warning issue. From left to right there is a low fuel light, a low oil light, an overheat light, and a check engine light. Each of these lights work in combination with other display features, but first, there�s a few more lights and buttons to tell you about. At the bottom of the LCD guage underneath all of the above, there are 4 more lights. From left to right they display as a warning light, and engine �cold start� temperature light, a high beam light and a knock sensor indicator (nice touch!) What are all these lights for? Well, they work in some cases with the display information I explained initially. The lights down low on this guage are designed to catch your eye, rather than just displaying the issue within the LCD portion of the guage itself. For example, when you have low fuel, the warning light on the bottom will come on along with the low fuel indicator. Same with the low oil or overheat light, or check engine light. In more serious cases where immediate attention is required, the warning light will flash along with the indicator light that is determining the issue. But that�s not all. The trip/odometer/rpm indicator also acts as a �code� readout for errors with electronics in the engine compartment. I have had a couple of errors occur, some caused on purpose and others accidentially. Unfortunately the manual doesn�t contain the a listing of error codes and what they mean, but the shop manual does. I had the warning light flashing, along with the check engine light, and the error code �85� in the trip/odometer/rpm area. This meant that the low oil sensor was disconnected or failing. One would think this would send the machine into �safe mode� (yes, there is a safe mode to limit rpm's and engine damage in certain circumstances) and keep the RPM�s low, but it didn�t because there�s other sensors in there to back each other up. In this case there is a float at the bottom of the oil reservoir (dry sump remember)...should that float indicate no oil, the machine will shut down and won�t start as long as that float does not detect any oil. Pretty cool fail safe. When I�ve rolled the machine on its side or upside down (no, the speedo didn�t break off despite its high mounting location, I happen to like where it is) this oil sensor shut down the engine until I tipped it back over and reset the motor by turning the key off, then on again. Now this problem indicated another error code but I don�t remember what number it was. Sure is nice to have such a specific readout though...as long as you can look up the error code, you can self diagnose the problem and look into it yourself. On the Rev�s, a flashing engine light means a variety of issues along with beeping alarms...they just aren�t specific enough to track down an issue without plugging it into the laptop....laptop?? What�s that?? No laptop for these machines remember. Anywho, I also had fun testing the frozen throttle sensor...I manually made the throttle stick open and it limited the engine�s RPM�s below engagement speed and gave another error code. Cool stuff. Back to the lights on the guage, the cold start temperature light as i call it is there to let you know the engine temperature is too cold to drive away with, and it will actually not allow engine engagement as long as the light is lit....nobody driving off without warming up their engine�s now....skipping the high beam light we get to the knock sensor light. Ah yes, how many times have we said we�d like to know on our rev�s when that sensor is knocking back the timing because of bad fuel? This light not only comes on, it comes on in different ways to indicate the degree of timing change and just how poor the fuel quality is. Pretty sweet...I�ve never seen it go off yet. While 91 Octane is recommended for this engine, you don�t have to run it. Run 87 and the sensor adjusts for about a 3HP loss, but without the light coming on...it isn�t poor fuel, just an octane change. And finally, who can forget the special little button and lights on the right side of the LCD guage. Drive and Reverse. Each has a light indicating your direction, and the bottom switches between the two using a servo in the chaincase. This type of reverse is handy � however it does have it�s glitches, but minor ones. When the machine has been sitting overnight and the chaincase oil is cold, the servo has trouble switching out of gear. For example, if you left your sled in drive the night before, and want to immediately go into reverse in the morning, there�s a good chance the servo won�t lock into place because the chaincase oil is too cold and thick. Either wait until you have driven the thing for a few minutes to use reverse, or use a track stand to get the oil moving and the problem is solved...but don�t shut it off in reverse and leave it there overnight or you may be stuck in reverse for a while till things get moving. Likewise, don�t park somewhere where you need to back out first thing in case those gears just won�t mesh. Do your reversing while the chaincase oil has had a chance to heat up. Yes, a pain in the rear end, but nothing major. Would you rather have this or a motor that doesn�t feed itself oil while it spins in reverse? (I'm not sure that's accurate with RER or PERC) That sums up the little computer ON the handlebars, bringing us too...
Handlebars:
They are nice and tall.
http://i137.photobuc...cs/BarRiser.jpg
Taller than X Package MX Z�s and Renegades. The bars are slightly curved.
http://i137.photobuc...NG/PICT0009.jpg
One thing is, where�s the J Hooks Yamaha?? SMACK! Why the Phazers got them and the Mountain Lite didn�t is a little odd. Regardless they are a nice set of handlebars with decent functionality. The thumb and handle bar warmer buttons are located on the left handlebar, just within reach of your thumb while riding.
http://i137.photobuc...rControlBox.jpg
They cycle through their settings from low to high and over again. For example, you push the button until the graph on the LCD shows you the heat intensity that you want. If you accidentially press it too many times it�s a minor pain to cycle through the 9 settings again, or if you have it set in an area and you want it to be a notch or two lower, you�ve got to press it 7 times or hold it down and wait a second or two, no big deal. Location of the high beam and warmers are okay but could be closer to the thumb. Heck I�ve got an even better idea for Yamaha. Instead of the cycle method, add a push button just like the high beam that toggles between thumb and hand warmer and make that switch on the left turn the warmers up or down again, just like when you had a sepearte toggle for the thumb warmers and bar warmers on opposite ends of the bars. And get those buttons closer to the thumb...why is that switch so bulky anyway? The parking break is nice, easy and cable driven. The breaks are nice as well. The throttle is good, feels good. Kill switch on top is good.
http://i137.photobuc...cs/Throttle.jpg
Heat from the grips and thumb warmer could be stronger, but it isn�t bad. While there is a full 9 step range of adjustability from OFF to HIGH, I think they could cut that range in half and it would still be adjustable enough. They could also bump up the heat that comes out on high. Grab strap on the bars is a little smaller than on the Renegade but it is solid and I use it a lot.
Windshields and Wind Protection:
The stock large windshield does a great job at blocking all the wind.
http://i137.photobuc.../Funeral002.jpg
Someone patented the term �billboard� on this site when the GTX�s came out. This is much the same. I purchased a medium windshield and it works great!
http://i137.photobuc...mWindshield.jpg
Riding without a windshield warmer than �20 C (-4 F) isn�t bad and I love the look of the sled without any windshield the best.
http://i137.photobuc...oWindsheild.jpg
As far as wind protection, the knees get a full blast of air.
http://i137.photobuc...eeWindBreak.jpg
See my knee's are the only real portion of the body facing wind? Yamaha offers deflectors, stock on some phazers but not the mountain lite. Again that�s where my shin guards come in handy. The rest of the protection is the same as the Rev, it really isn�t a cold sled to ride at all despite initial concerns.
Engine Cooling:
With initial concerns of overheating from lack of heat exchanger coverage and the front rad clogging up,
http://i137.photobuc...rPluggedRad.jpg
I haven�t had the engine overheat, no heat light, nothing. In powder the rad definitely clogs up, but the heat exchanger picks up the slack and I don�t worry about trying to clear the rad, it seems to clear itself up eventually. There is a fan behind it on the mountain lite, but I don�t think it is on the regular phazers. This fan blows air like a hovercraft! It's impressive and I think it helps push the heat around and thaw the buildup. I haven't had coolant flow out the overflow valve, but it's dripping somewhere that I haven't been able to find yet. It's an intermittent drip, maybe when they installed the circ heater a clamp came loose. Unfortunately I haven�t been able to ride below �22 C because it just hasn�t been colder than that. I think that in powder at very cold temps, the clogged rad could become an issue if there is ice buildup around the heat exchanger at the same time. Even on the Rev below �30 C (-22 F), ice forms a shell around the heat exchangers and needs to be banged out or the temps continuously climb in the motor. As for the top half of the rad being exposed to objects, it is a concern and should have some additional protection. Like ice buildup on the running boards from melting snow in the tunnel, I consider this a design flaw and won�t be surprised if Yamaha makes some adjustments on future units. I initially thought the rad carried engine oil through it but I am wrong. Last week I read snowtech saying the mountain lite has an �oil cooler�....from what I gather, it's a disc on the front of the motor above the oil filter and it works by oil and coolant passing by one another in this disc. The coolant simply cools off the oil, exchanging heat from one to the other.
Conclusion:
Sorry it took so long to get this out, but I wanted to do it right! I'm sure there's things I've missed, so if you have questions just fire away and I'll do my best.
Overall I give this unit a 9 out of 10. Yamaha did a great job as far as I can tell, and they've sold me on the FX chassis and this 500cc motor. Very impressed indeed. So much so, that if I could get a rack and hitch on this exact sled, I'd no longer own a Rev and I'd have two Yamaha's sitting in my driveway. Needless to say, I have a new favourite machine. The Backup sled has become the #1 choice in my garage.
