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Yellowknife's 2006-2007 Season Odyssey on his Mountain Lite

Well, I watched your video, and you and I are in the same boat. I have those issues with both my Phazer and Nytro.

The silicone idea - needs more testing, but it worked during spring riding this past spring.

See, the dealer siliconed my Phazer, then it was spring, so no real testing. Then in the summer, they took the silicone out to install that update for snow, which didn't work, so the Phazer got siliconed again, but during the spring, so no testing again. This time to start this coming season 2008-09, both my Phazer and Nytro are siliconed - I'm actually using the crap they use to install and seal windshields on vehicles. It is easy to apply and easy to remove if required.
 

Yellowknife said:
Closed Tunnel Update

So the rear hole in the tunnel is closed. I did 100 km's of testing in various conditions outside, powder, hard packed, etc. The temp is -20 C. I am getting a bit of leakage through the front hole in the tunnel that seems to seep under the rubber flaps that are installed stock on the machine. Nothing like I was having with the rear of the tunnel open, but it's not perfect.

When I was looking at my exhaust tonight in the dark after riding, the exhaust pipe that comes directly out of the motor is glowing red! Now I've never checked before to see if this is normal even with an open tunnel. I read on this forum that people do have that experience. Can some people confirm that for me? The muffler itself does not overheat by any means and everything around it gets warm, but definitely nowhere near hot. I'm convinced the muffler/seat and rear of the sled are fine with the rear hole in the tunnel closed.

I am hesitant to cover the front hole in the tunnel with that glowing red pipe, which does go directly under the fuel tank! So I may have to live with that little bit of leakage from the front hole.

The question is, is that glowing red happening to those who have open tunnels? I should have checked this out before i closed the tunnel to see if it glows red then.

Feedback appreciated!

you could run a bead of silicone along the inside of the rubber flaps. i havent tried it, but i havent had a chance to ride mine yet either.

about the oil breather, couldnt something like frogskinz be attached to it to keep snow from going in to it. it will breath through that and if it tips it will run out alot slower and whatever is left in the hose will go back into the tank.
 
Yellowknife said:
Sunday, February 11th Ride

Today we began our ride at -37 degrees. Little did I know, I was in for a pile of problems with the Mtn Lite at those temperatures.

I've ready a couple people complain that snow gets into the engine compartment and freezes their steering.

That's exactly what happened to me today, 100 km's out of town. I was none too impressed to say the least. I could not steer the entire ride home. You can imagine how much fun that was.

Typically, snow enters the steering area (which it shouldn't be able to, but the design is crap) and the snow melts, then the water drains out the belly pan/skid plate.

At -37, its too cold for that water to drain, so it just builds up, to the point of no longer being able to steer. I've sent the following pictures to my dealer, and I will be looking for 2 new tie rods and 2 new steering boots under warranty after the failure I had today with the steering.

See for yourself...this is a design problem, I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary, the only difference was the very cold air temperature.

Excessive buildup under steering rod, causes the rod to bend during suspension action...
FrozenSteering.jpg

whats the cable under the sled for? is it a stand?
 
Yeah it is a sled lift.

I put up with the leaky flaps around the front hole in the exhaust, with the side panels installed the problem is much better and tolerable.

As for the crank case vent, there's a solution out there using a valve that I may try. Installing a tether has also helped.
 
Yellowknife said:
Yeah it is a sled lift.

I put up with the leaky flaps around the front hole in the exhaust, with the side panels installed the problem is much better and tolerable.

As for the crank case vent, there's a solution out there using a valve that I may try. Installing a tether has also helped.

ok. ya i saw the one somebody made on here. i cant remeber the name, but i know what your talking about. the valve closes when the teather get pulled off.
 


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