yox185
TY 4 Stroke Master
Which hole in the rail is the front torque arm supposed to go in? My wifes RX-1 has heavy steering (for her), and I'm trying to reduce it. I remember reading somewhere about the front torque arm mounting hole affecting ski pressure but cant find it anywhere. How high can you crank up the center shock spring? Thanx in advance.
rlllrs
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just rebuilt an m-10 in an 03 rx-1. the last hole or the 4th hole or the farthest away is the proper setting. It is in the book for setting up the m-10. the steering may be corrected by shimming the back of the ski pivot point.
this is very well explaied in a previous article about wondering on the trail.
this is very well explaied in a previous article about wondering on the trail.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Shimming won't fix ski pressure. All shimming does is level the ski so that the ski is sitting level on the center carbide. (i.e. not on the front tip). This may help with heavy steering though.
What I have found is the old stock skis loose their shape and the whole wearbar is flat on a hard surface. The cure I have used to re-arch the ski was to go to doolies. They have an arch in the wearbars' mounting plates. The Mounting Plates re-arch the ski tips back up so that you are not sitting on the whole wearbar. Also, you can use less carbide length (e.g. 4" versus 8") on the wife's sled, which makes the sled a one finger turner again. If you have it studded, try 6." But the higher you go in length, the harder it will be to turn when it is moving slow.
Also, you may want to lube the steering joints. Sometimes they get corroded and start to get stiff. Jack the sled's front end up and try turning with the skis off the ground. It should turn effortlessly. If it does not, then it's time for a little investigation/lube, etc.
What I have found is the old stock skis loose their shape and the whole wearbar is flat on a hard surface. The cure I have used to re-arch the ski was to go to doolies. They have an arch in the wearbars' mounting plates. The Mounting Plates re-arch the ski tips back up so that you are not sitting on the whole wearbar. Also, you can use less carbide length (e.g. 4" versus 8") on the wife's sled, which makes the sled a one finger turner again. If you have it studded, try 6." But the higher you go in length, the harder it will be to turn when it is moving slow.
Also, you may want to lube the steering joints. Sometimes they get corroded and start to get stiff. Jack the sled's front end up and try turning with the skis off the ground. It should turn effortlessly. If it does not, then it's time for a little investigation/lube, etc.
yox185
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yeah I have always shimmed the skis on all my sleds and it is well lubed. I was just curious about the m10 mounting position. I will give Fast a call Monday. Thanx
