I installed an M20 Airwave in my 2013 Apex 128. I'm trying to align the track and for some reason I can't the alignment even. The left side needs to move to the right and when I tighten the left side it does not move to the right the measurement stays the same, the track gets tighter and the right side wheel I can turn by hand.
I noticed the tracks clips on the left side are further away from the hyfax then the right side ( 5/16" vs 1/16")
I think the skid is off to one side and I don't know how that can be. All mounting measurements are dead on.
Anyone have an idea of what could be the problem?
I noticed the tracks clips on the left side are further away from the hyfax then the right side ( 5/16" vs 1/16")
I think the skid is off to one side and I don't know how that can be. All mounting measurements are dead on.
Anyone have an idea of what could be the problem?
I believe the way the m20 is made the suspension hangs crooked at the back. The rebound shock is what does it I take a measurement of the adjustment bolts and make them even. I have been running the m20 in my warrior since 07. And no issues with track clips. With all of the free play fast wants the track is going to move around a lot anyway.
Redbeard
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I would talk to Brain at Fast first thing. If no resolve, then I have a few questions:
1) Did you use the thin tunnel support plates they send for mounting the front arm inside the tunnel?
2) Was the front arm cross shaft a sloppy fit before you tightened the bolts (picture below)?
Those front arm support plates are thin and sometimes leave a gap before the arm is tightened. When you tighten the front arm bolts, it sucks-in the left side of the tunnel and can throw the front of the skid out of alignment (this caused me to have the exact symptoms you are having). The reason the right side doesn't suck-in is because the chain case makes that side of the tunnel more rigid. I ultimately made my own front support plates out of 12 gauge steel to take up the slack, and that centered the skid.
Go out and loosen the left, front arm bolt and see if a gap appears? You may be able to just sandwich 7/16" washers inside the tunnel to re-center the front arm? I know this sounds far out, but it's worth a look.
Re-check alignment accordingly.
I tried calling Brian twice on Friday and left messages both times and no response. Still waiting.
Answers to your questions:
1- yes
2- yes, I did the same thing you did, put the shaft in the tunnel and actually bolted one side in and I had 5/16" gap on the other side. As a matter of fact, with the whole suspension now bolted in I can grab the spacer on the left front and slide it side to side a little bit. The right side spacer does not slide but I can spin it.
I should mention that the back of the suspension is off also. I measured from the left side drop bracket to the carriage wheel and it was 1" and the right side measured 3/4". So logic says the suspension needs to be shifted to the left 1/8"
My friend said the same thing about adding a washer in the front and maybe making new rear spacers on the lathe.
Answers to your questions:
1- yes
2- yes, I did the same thing you did, put the shaft in the tunnel and actually bolted one side in and I had 5/16" gap on the other side. As a matter of fact, with the whole suspension now bolted in I can grab the spacer on the left front and slide it side to side a little bit. The right side spacer does not slide but I can spin it.
I should mention that the back of the suspension is off also. I measured from the left side drop bracket to the carriage wheel and it was 1" and the right side measured 3/4". So logic says the suspension needs to be shifted to the left 1/8"
My friend said the same thing about adding a washer in the front and maybe making new rear spacers on the lathe.
Redbeard
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2008 Vector, 136 M20, PB80
I agree! Your entire suspension needs shifted to the left. Both sides on the rear of my Apex measure 3/4", but be cautious measuring off the idler wheel like that, as one side of the bearing hub is taller on one side of the wheel than the other (the taller side should be facing out). Verify both idlers on your sled have the high side facing out. This will ensure that your measurement is equal on both sides. You could also have the wrong spacers or something is mis-assembled?
The spacers turning on the front cross shaft is normal. They only keep the arm centered and from sliding side to side. The 5/16" gap between the tunnel and shaft, however; is excessive IMO. The gap should be centered up with thicker home made plates, or see if Fast will send you additional plates to stack together and absorb that gap; keep each side of the tunnel equal.
You're almost there! The improved ride will cancel out the frustration, trust me!
The spacers turning on the front cross shaft is normal. They only keep the arm centered and from sliding side to side. The 5/16" gap between the tunnel and shaft, however; is excessive IMO. The gap should be centered up with thicker home made plates, or see if Fast will send you additional plates to stack together and absorb that gap; keep each side of the tunnel equal.
You're almost there! The improved ride will cancel out the frustration, trust me!
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