Make your XTX rail

[LeeKo]

I added Hygear triple rate front spring and Ohlin’s rear shocks. The sled is night and day better than before. I think the triple rate springs had the most to do with it, but I am sure that the Ohlins rear helped too.

With the front springs my sled front end dropped 2 inches from my previous setup. With the Ohlins rear skid the center shock feels more progressive(initially softer) than the stock center shock allowing less weight transfer. This coupled with more front end drop-out; you can keep the power on during a turn.

My cousin rode the sled before and after and was in disbelief it was the same sled. He even ventured to say that it handled better than my Viper that has Ohlins all around. He described my XTX as handling like a truck previously.

I would recommend that everybody that is unhappy with the handling of their sleds to look in to the Hygear springs as a quick fix. I don't think it is necessary to buy the OHlins rears, but I would take some preload off the stock center spring or look into a dual rate for the center spring. The Ohlin rears are awesome though. For trail riding the Hygear springs on stock fronts with stock valving are fine. Ultimately, I want to revalve the fronts because in off trail big g-out bumps or jumping they do bottom still and are outclassed by the Ohlins rear.

I also will note that I changed the rear torsion spring spacer to the Hygear spacer which adds preload to the rear skid. I have C&A XTX skis with 9inch round bar carbides, these were on the sled before I made the shock changes. My current setup also made these skis turn with far less effort than before.

 

[cmallow]

How much are the front spring kits? if you don't mind.

 

[Bigblue1]

cmallow,

I too was concerned at the cost vs. the benefits but LeeKo is dead on. I put the trail sport kit in my 08 which consisted of TR springs up front, DR spring setup in the center shock and a re-valve. I also put in heavier torsions and the candles with the curve skis and WOW. This thing rails. If cost is an issue, I would definitely do the springs and valving which will go a long way. I plan on keeping mining for several years its that good. ope this helps.

 

[LeeKo]

$269 for the TR springs

 

[sprintcat]

LeeKo do they tell you how to set up the springs? and will it help the sled stay in tight in a long corner?

 

[LeeKo]

Sprintcat,

The springs are basically zero preload. I think they only recommended 5mm. I had to ask Ross about setup, I didn't see it in the instructions. They are super easy to setup. Just take out the preload to remove stock springs and unscrew the rebound dampener to put on new springs/spacers.

The handling is way flatter and you will be able to hold a tighter line but I would imagine you will need to run a more aggressive carbide than the stock ones.

 

[sprintcat]

Thanks LeeKo . I have the SkiDoo 5.7 pilots. I have a hard time keeping the sled to the in side corner ,on a long corner thats when I get passed. it's good in short ones . other than that I got used to the ski lift I just ride it out on one ski.I think I might try the triple rate springs.

 

[Daranello]

$269 for the TR springs

I read that the kit was $799....did I read wrong???

 

[LeeKo]

I just bought the springs. Stock valving.

 

[Daranello]

I just bought the springs. Stock valving.

Can't the valving just be adjusted via the clickers??? I'm 270lbs with gear

 

[LeeKo]

The clickers adjust slow speed compression(trail chatter) I don't think they directly help bottoming resistance. I do think that if you ran the shock damp and dialed up compression you would have more bottoming resistance.

I would buy the springs and try them without messing with revalving until you try them out. That is what I did. I will eventually have Hygear work on the shocks.

 

[LeeKo]

I spoke to Ross at Hygear. I think I miss spoke on the compression settings. He said that the compression will directly help bottoming resistance.

 

[sprintcat]

LeeKo how are you doing ? just got the TR springs. just wondering what you did for the 5 mm preload that they say to install them at . lets just say they are 12 inchs sitting on the bench dose that mean to screw the adjuster down just over 3/16 of an inch ? If I do it like that they feel a little to lose. thanks. Sprint

 

[LeeKo]

I installed the springs, then screwed the adjuster until it just touched the spring. I then measured the distance to top of the shock with a caliper added 5mm to that distance and tightened the spring adjuster to the 5 mm pre-load. It is not much and the springs are basically zero pre-load, the first spring will totally compress into the spacers when on the sled.

I look forward to hearing how you liked the TR springs.

 

[Thecross]

I installed the springs, then screwed the adjuster until it just touched the spring. I then measured the distance to top of the shock with a caliper added 5mm to that distance and tightened the spring adjuster to the 5 mm pre-load. It is not much and the springs are basically zero pre-load, the first spring will totally compress into the spacers when on the sled.

I look forward to hearing how you liked the TR springs.

It seems odd to me to have the light spring totally compressed at normal right height? So it only helps with fall out (holes)?