boneman
Extreme
Anyone using Mobil 1 5w-30? I was thinking about going to a synthetic oil looking for feedback.
Thanks
Bone
Thanks
Bone
Bob Miller
TY 4 Stroke Master
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I have Mobil 1 15W-50 in my o4 warrior 
You may be interested in knowing that this particular oil was designed for high revving and hard working fourstroke engines and it flows down to -50 I have been using it for ten years in ATV's, Motorcycles and now, a snowmobile and I have no doubts about it.
You could also use Mobil 1 5W-30, but it is my opinion from what I have read on these oils and experienced that the 15W-50 is better suited for the R-1 engine. And to repeat myself because I know once again the question will arise, the 15W-50 flows down to -50!
The Amzoil 0W-40 is also an excellent choice!
You may be interested in knowing that this particular oil was designed for high revving and hard working fourstroke engines and it flows down to -50 I have been using it for ten years in ATV's, Motorcycles and now, a snowmobile and I have no doubts about it.
You could also use Mobil 1 5W-30, but it is my opinion from what I have read on these oils and experienced that the 15W-50 is better suited for the R-1 engine. And to repeat myself because I know once again the question will arise, the 15W-50 flows down to -50!
The Amzoil 0W-40 is also an excellent choice!
boneman
Extreme
Thanks Bob, I think I remember someone on here using Mobil 1 0-30?
You ride up in Zenon correct? I herd they have 3ft. up there, Im going up to Thetford mines the end of Jan should be awesome!
You ride up in Zenon correct? I herd they have 3ft. up there, Im going up to Thetford mines the end of Jan should be awesome!
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
I have been using Mobil 1 for 15 years. I buy the 5w30 in 5 qt jugs from walmart for $19. The container is great for taking the used oil in for recycling at autozone
Synthetics are not good for ring seat, try to use the Yammie Semi syn until 2000 miles.
IMHO 15w 50 is way too thick for a winter oil in anything. I do use the M1 15-50 in my BMW cycle in the summer as the manual calls for that weight.
Synthetics are not good for ring seat, try to use the Yammie Semi syn until 2000 miles.
IMHO 15w 50 is way too thick for a winter oil in anything. I do use the M1 15-50 in my BMW cycle in the summer as the manual calls for that weight.
Tom-RX1
Expert
I use the mobil1 5w30 no problems at all .
Tom-RX1
Tom-RX1
oil??????
My 03 has 2500 miles on it. I just put Mobil 1 0w-40. Is this ok??? I tried to read up on oil threads but there are just so many? Any comments welcome. Thanks
My 03 has 2500 miles on it. I just put Mobil 1 0w-40. Is this ok??? I tried to read up on oil threads but there are just so many? Any comments welcome. Thanks
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: oil??????
You ar fine tony. Glad that you waited until 2500 to do it. Feel free to use either wt. of oil
TonyVT said:
You ar fine tony. Glad that you waited until 2500 to do it. Feel free to use either wt. of oil
nhrxrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Synthetic can be great, especially for cold weather areas. As mentioned, its great for easier starting on cold mornings and protection until the engine warms up.
I have had done thousands of oil changes in the auto industry, and I find WAY too many people fall for the crap about synthetic oils lasting 20,000+ miles between oil changes. DON'T FALL FOR THIS!!!!!!! I have drained some nasty black sludge out of engines with 20,000+ miles on synthetic! You might be able to go a little longer between changes, but there is more to dirty oil than just wear from the engine. There are also vapors and particles that get past the rings during the combustion process, moisture from the air, etc. This happens no matter what oil you run. Keep it clean!
One more point to keep in mind when deciding on whether to pay the extra cost, and I'm not making a suggestion, just offering up something to think about: In bikes, this engine easily lasts 30,000 to 100,000 miles or more with just simple tuneups and oil changes. Do you think your chassis is going to last that long? In a few more years we are going to see these engines being sold used very cheap, because they are easuly going to outlast the rest of the sled. I already see them popping up on ebay. With many of us used to owning 2 strokes, its second nature to do anything we can to treat our engines like fine china and pamper tham all we can. But these 4 strokes have a life expectancy that can't even compare to any 2 stroke. I'm not saying to abuse it...but with an engine that can easily run 30,000+ miles using regular old dino oil, I don't think synthetic is a high requirement for snowmobile use, except for the ease of starting the sled in cold weather.
Jim
I have had done thousands of oil changes in the auto industry, and I find WAY too many people fall for the crap about synthetic oils lasting 20,000+ miles between oil changes. DON'T FALL FOR THIS!!!!!!! I have drained some nasty black sludge out of engines with 20,000+ miles on synthetic! You might be able to go a little longer between changes, but there is more to dirty oil than just wear from the engine. There are also vapors and particles that get past the rings during the combustion process, moisture from the air, etc. This happens no matter what oil you run. Keep it clean!
One more point to keep in mind when deciding on whether to pay the extra cost, and I'm not making a suggestion, just offering up something to think about: In bikes, this engine easily lasts 30,000 to 100,000 miles or more with just simple tuneups and oil changes. Do you think your chassis is going to last that long? In a few more years we are going to see these engines being sold used very cheap, because they are easuly going to outlast the rest of the sled. I already see them popping up on ebay. With many of us used to owning 2 strokes, its second nature to do anything we can to treat our engines like fine china and pamper tham all we can. But these 4 strokes have a life expectancy that can't even compare to any 2 stroke. I'm not saying to abuse it...but with an engine that can easily run 30,000+ miles using regular old dino oil, I don't think synthetic is a high requirement for snowmobile use, except for the ease of starting the sled in cold weather.
Jim
Bob Miller
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boneman said:
Yes Boneman,
I will be going up to Real Masse on Jan 8th!
Prairie Dog
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Ditto with big D.
Oil is cheap, change it often. Have fun and play.
End of story.
snowtwister
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I use Mobil 1 in my RX-1's and my Vette. I love it. Any High compression engine deserves it, along with Shell V-Power premium fuel.
impalapower
TY 4 Stroke God
Jim is correct about the oil and how long the engine will last on conventional oil. In addition, people forget most filters don't last all that long. In automobiles, the 3000 mile mark is when most change the oil. With synthetics, folks run oil longer but forget they need to change the filter more often than the oil.
nhrxrider,
I don't doubt your experience, but how many of those long oil change time engines had high quality oil filters to collect the residue that is suspended in oil through engine wear and fuel/air contaminants. There are improved sub-micron filters available and I believe most recommendations for example with Amsoil, recommend changing the filter at shorter intervals than the oil.
On the RX the filter is the hard part unless you have relocated it and the oil is cheap. I saw better performance in cold weather and there is documentation of the improved film strength which can't hurt. How many other types of vehicles run these types of rpms continuously. For the cost, Isn't the higher cost worth while??
I don't doubt your experience, but how many of those long oil change time engines had high quality oil filters to collect the residue that is suspended in oil through engine wear and fuel/air contaminants. There are improved sub-micron filters available and I believe most recommendations for example with Amsoil, recommend changing the filter at shorter intervals than the oil.
On the RX the filter is the hard part unless you have relocated it and the oil is cheap. I saw better performance in cold weather and there is documentation of the improved film strength which can't hurt. How many other types of vehicles run these types of rpms continuously. For the cost, Isn't the higher cost worth while??
nhrxrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Many of the contaminants that get mixed in with the oil can't be removed with a filter. For example, water vapor. Remember the old rule of the combustion process: for each gallon of oil burned, 1 gallon of water is produced during the chemical reaction. Ever notice how much steam comes out the exhaust? Some of that water gets into the oil and contaminates it, and that can't be removed with a filter. There are other things getting into the oil as well as water, such as carbon and other materials. Simple rule of thumb: check the oil on a regular basis, and when it looks dirty, CHANGE IT. If the oil is black, its dirty. It might not be broken down, such as standard dino oil does, but it still gets dirty.
You mention cost. Well as someone mentioned above, oil is cheap, and its the only protection your engine has. Isn't your engine worth changing the oil every 3,000 miles? I'm a cheap SOB, and I change it at least every 2,000 miles, usually more often than that. My engine works hard and runs at high RPMs...after 1500 miles or so the oil usually looks quite dark, even with the synthetic. I went less than 2000 miles on the first synthetic oil I used before changing it (Mobile-1) and it looked quite dirty. I now have under 1500 miles on the Amsoil in my engine and I'll be changing it. I'd go back to synthetic if it was easier to find while out on the trail. I need at least a quart every 300 miles, and I'm not going to carry a couple quarts with me on rides, so I'm going back to dino oil just because its easier to find.
Jim
You mention cost. Well as someone mentioned above, oil is cheap, and its the only protection your engine has. Isn't your engine worth changing the oil every 3,000 miles? I'm a cheap SOB, and I change it at least every 2,000 miles, usually more often than that. My engine works hard and runs at high RPMs...after 1500 miles or so the oil usually looks quite dark, even with the synthetic. I went less than 2000 miles on the first synthetic oil I used before changing it (Mobile-1) and it looked quite dirty. I now have under 1500 miles on the Amsoil in my engine and I'll be changing it. I'd go back to synthetic if it was easier to find while out on the trail. I need at least a quart every 300 miles, and I'm not going to carry a couple quarts with me on rides, so I'm going back to dino oil just because its easier to find.
Jim
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
I first want to state that I am no oil expert. I am an Amsoil fan. Here is what I believe. No one will tell you dino oil is better than synthetic. Synthetic is far superior in every way. I believe in extended oil drains. I have my oil analyzed every 6 months. That tells me everything that is going on with the motor. Sometimes they tell me to change the filter, sometimes they tell me to change the oil and sometimes neither. This I believe is the only true way of finding out what is really going on. I have to be honest, when you change the oil in a motor and drive it around for an hour, it all looks black and dirty. Amsoil has a very extensive research facility. What I like about them is they give you more data than any other company out there as far as their testing is concerned. We can debate which oil is better, but I like the Amsoil product line.
