GotJuice
Expert
07' Apex Mnt. SE, floats in the front,
Gold finger,
CR Racing boss seat & bumper
Batterry relocated to under seat
Timbersled drop brackets
Hauck custom "Under" tunnel exhaust
Air box mod, CR10EK plugs, PC III & ignition module
2.5" Rox Riser,
Ulmer Oil filter relocation
Heavy torsion springs, Venture Gas shock
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I'm getting familiar with the sled, I'm able to carve fairly well and side hill fairly well, Can you give me some pointers on two subjects. Current set up and what to add to the sled next season. Where I ride boost isn't needed, just not enough "big" country to use the power. I will change the cams,compression and head porting for 185h.p and that will be all for motor mods.
>>>>>>
Current REAR set up: front skid shock set to hard, heavy torsion springs on hard, limiters pulled up two holes, transfer rods set to maximum transfer. Does ok but still trenches and rides rough. With the springs & gas shock It doesn't bottom out on large drops/jumps which is what I wanted but rides like crap to and from the mnt, bounces me all over from to much rebound. I've read that the crapy valving in the Yamaha rebuildable shock contributes to harsh rebound & compression problems, can anyone confirm? Rear skid set up suggestions, should I drop the limiters one hole, soften the springs or something else?
>>>>>>>
Current front set up: floats at 75psi with sleds weight on them. They ride rough, (minimal compression before getting hard) Stock ski's & 8" carbides toe'd out 1/4" and shimmed 3/8" down in the back. Sway bar still connected. My fear of unhooking the sway bar on hard snow days it will be to tippy riding off camber side hills over rough rutted hill sides, seems like it'll want to pull the nose down hill? I've considered going to the Simmons II's but don't want it any harder to side hill or counter steer in minimal powder conditons 6" to 12" , in the deeper powder I'm sure it will still lay over fine.
>>>>>
Next Improvements to the sled:
2.5" Challenger Extreme track 159"x16 with two 8" rear wheels
Timbersled Front and Rear suspension with shortened Ice age rails
GYT clicker front shocks or Nextech reservoirs for the floats
VE or CR tunnel
Poly carb hood & side panels, (remove headlight pod) add PIAA's
Remove radiator
>>>>>>
Besides what I've listed what else can I do to the front end to lighten the heavy nose feel ? (battery relocation & brackets already done) Anyone make a complete steering linkage kit, every piece in Chromo maybe ? Am I missing anything that's resonably common and not to excessively expensive? I've also considered going to a 159X15" track and run a narrower tunnel to make it more nimble but afraid it wouldn't have enough track to float properly and be constantly stuck. Can I use 156" rails and pull the skid back a couple inches to help with approach angle safely and affectively? I would drop and role or extend but want to keep reverse so the way I see it the only other way is to go back and use anti stab wheels? All info appreciated and Thanks for helping I know it's LOOONGGG
Gold finger,
CR Racing boss seat & bumper
Batterry relocated to under seat
Timbersled drop brackets
Hauck custom "Under" tunnel exhaust
Air box mod, CR10EK plugs, PC III & ignition module
2.5" Rox Riser,
Ulmer Oil filter relocation
Heavy torsion springs, Venture Gas shock
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I'm getting familiar with the sled, I'm able to carve fairly well and side hill fairly well, Can you give me some pointers on two subjects. Current set up and what to add to the sled next season. Where I ride boost isn't needed, just not enough "big" country to use the power. I will change the cams,compression and head porting for 185h.p and that will be all for motor mods.
>>>>>>
Current REAR set up: front skid shock set to hard, heavy torsion springs on hard, limiters pulled up two holes, transfer rods set to maximum transfer. Does ok but still trenches and rides rough. With the springs & gas shock It doesn't bottom out on large drops/jumps which is what I wanted but rides like crap to and from the mnt, bounces me all over from to much rebound. I've read that the crapy valving in the Yamaha rebuildable shock contributes to harsh rebound & compression problems, can anyone confirm? Rear skid set up suggestions, should I drop the limiters one hole, soften the springs or something else?
>>>>>>>
Current front set up: floats at 75psi with sleds weight on them. They ride rough, (minimal compression before getting hard) Stock ski's & 8" carbides toe'd out 1/4" and shimmed 3/8" down in the back. Sway bar still connected. My fear of unhooking the sway bar on hard snow days it will be to tippy riding off camber side hills over rough rutted hill sides, seems like it'll want to pull the nose down hill? I've considered going to the Simmons II's but don't want it any harder to side hill or counter steer in minimal powder conditons 6" to 12" , in the deeper powder I'm sure it will still lay over fine.
>>>>>
Next Improvements to the sled:
2.5" Challenger Extreme track 159"x16 with two 8" rear wheels
Timbersled Front and Rear suspension with shortened Ice age rails
GYT clicker front shocks or Nextech reservoirs for the floats
VE or CR tunnel
Poly carb hood & side panels, (remove headlight pod) add PIAA's
Remove radiator
>>>>>>
Besides what I've listed what else can I do to the front end to lighten the heavy nose feel ? (battery relocation & brackets already done) Anyone make a complete steering linkage kit, every piece in Chromo maybe ? Am I missing anything that's resonably common and not to excessively expensive? I've also considered going to a 159X15" track and run a narrower tunnel to make it more nimble but afraid it wouldn't have enough track to float properly and be constantly stuck. Can I use 156" rails and pull the skid back a couple inches to help with approach angle safely and affectively? I would drop and role or extend but want to keep reverse so the way I see it the only other way is to go back and use anti stab wheels? All info appreciated and Thanks for helping I know it's LOOONGGG
niko
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Man, you have more mods than me!(lol) im sure once you put in the new rear suspention that things will change to the handling. One thing have you got any pics or info how you moved the battery? Im too wanting to do this mod.
cheers ,
niko.
cheers ,
niko.
yel_low
Extreme
im also interested in picture about moving battery!
GotJuice
Expert
No pictures but I can explain
I have the Boss seat designed for stock exhaust, looks like stock but a little narrower and a little taller. I had a Hauck exhaust that exited the stock location, so I cut it off right behind the center exhaust chamber before it turned up and roled it over 180 degrees so it pointed down. Cut a plate to cover the top of the tunnel opening out of 1/8" aluminum. I made a bracket to support the back of the seat and mounted the battery under that bracket. Ran 8 guage wire to the front . Moved 16 lbs from the front to the rear, but you have to add a few lbs for the brackets wires and aluminum plate. (remember you loose some wieght by removing the heat sheild and other pieces in the stock exhaust location so it's basically a wash) The objective was to get the weight off the nose of this heavy pig....LOL.
I figure I can remove another 58lbs from the rear with a tunnel, a little shorter track and rear suspension. Hopefully 30lbs from the front with the suspension, panels, radiator/fan and a lot of drilling certain area's...LOL. I'd like to remove more from the front but loosing options fast. I checked into titanium but it's stupidly expensive. I'm also interested in running the Simmon II but they are 11lbs a piece so I'm trying to figure out the 2nd best option that's lighter then stock. It seems to me the steering linkage from the column to the tie rods is excessively big and heavy, I'd hoped to find a chromoly set up to remove another 7-ish lbs but no luck so far. I've considered trading it for a Nytro but then I'd have to start over on a new sled and learn all the characteristics over and loose a lot of money already spent. So I'll continue to build this one until Yamaha comes out with a turbo from the factory. Oh and what I have listed is aboput half of what I have done but the rest isn't weight related. All input and suggestions appreciated!
I have the Boss seat designed for stock exhaust, looks like stock but a little narrower and a little taller. I had a Hauck exhaust that exited the stock location, so I cut it off right behind the center exhaust chamber before it turned up and roled it over 180 degrees so it pointed down. Cut a plate to cover the top of the tunnel opening out of 1/8" aluminum. I made a bracket to support the back of the seat and mounted the battery under that bracket. Ran 8 guage wire to the front . Moved 16 lbs from the front to the rear, but you have to add a few lbs for the brackets wires and aluminum plate. (remember you loose some wieght by removing the heat sheild and other pieces in the stock exhaust location so it's basically a wash) The objective was to get the weight off the nose of this heavy pig....LOL.
I figure I can remove another 58lbs from the rear with a tunnel, a little shorter track and rear suspension. Hopefully 30lbs from the front with the suspension, panels, radiator/fan and a lot of drilling certain area's...LOL. I'd like to remove more from the front but loosing options fast. I checked into titanium but it's stupidly expensive. I'm also interested in running the Simmon II but they are 11lbs a piece so I'm trying to figure out the 2nd best option that's lighter then stock. It seems to me the steering linkage from the column to the tie rods is excessively big and heavy, I'd hoped to find a chromoly set up to remove another 7-ish lbs but no luck so far. I've considered trading it for a Nytro but then I'd have to start over on a new sled and learn all the characteristics over and loose a lot of money already spent. So I'll continue to build this one until Yamaha comes out with a turbo from the factory. Oh and what I have listed is aboput half of what I have done but the rest isn't weight related. All input and suggestions appreciated!
niko
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
could i see a pic of the pipe conversion? I may do something like that once im back home in aust.
GotJuice
Expert
pics
I will try to get some pics this week for you guys to look at. If I had a stock pipe I could just cut it off where it comes out of the center chamber and have a shop weld a 45 degree turn down onto the end and be done. It's really all quite easy once you have it all apart and look at what to do.
I will try to get some pics this week for you guys to look at. If I had a stock pipe I could just cut it off where it comes out of the center chamber and have a shop weld a 45 degree turn down onto the end and be done. It's really all quite easy once you have it all apart and look at what to do.
