Mono shock revalving?

[BADSLED]

Send it out to Hygear, I have had mine revalved by Pioneer which I thought was a very good setup but have also ridden Hygear and it's that much better.

 

[Gone Blue]

Irv,

You might want to check to see that the RA Adjuster cable end did not come off. If it did, the cable can disengage from the shock or the adjuster so when you turn the adjuster nothing changes with the shock. I always have found that there is a noticeable difference with the way my 07" rode when I turned the adjuster. G.B.

 

[Irv]

Irv,

You might want to check to see that the RA Adjuster cable end did not come off. If it did, the cable can disengage from the shock or the adjuster so when you turn the adjuster nothing changes with the shock. I always have found that there is a noticeable difference with the way my 07" rode when I turned the adjuster. G.B.

This is something I will have to check out, although I never had it completely off I know one of the tie wraps I used to secure it while I had the skid out broke so it did flop around a little before I re-secured it.

Sounds like I have some set-up/checking to do before I go any further with a shock revalve, hopefully I find something that I missed or didn't do properly and all will be corrected?

Thanks for helping out a newb everyone, I appreciate it

 

[mtkaboater]

I agree with GoneBlue. The cable from the adjuster to the shock is not well designed and they frequently break. It could be that your dial adjuster is all the way to soft, but if the cable were broken, you didn't really do anything to the shock. Ive relaced that cable twice already. What happens is water gets into the cable and freezes, then when you give the adjuster a crank, but it's locked, so that cable breaks. They can also break when people are not careful taking the skid in or out and the cable gets kinked or pinched. I take my skid out at least once per year to inspect this cable as well as the idler wheels, rails, sliders, etc.

 

[Irv]

I agree with GoneBlue. The cable from the adjuster to the shock is not well designed and they frequently break. It could be that your dial adjuster is all the way to soft, but if the cable were broken, you didn't really do anything to the shock. Ive relaced that cable twice already. What happens is water gets into the cable and freezes, then when you give the adjuster a crank, but it's locked, so that cable breaks. They can also break when people are not careful taking the skid in or out and the cable gets kinked or pinched. I take my skid out at least once per year to inspect this cable as well as the idler wheels, rails, sliders, etc.

I finally had a bit of time to check my sag yesterday and it was out quite a bit, I am now on the highest setting with the cam adjuster and it is still out by over 5mm(cam adjuster is on first clip) so my only option I believe is to remove the shock and have the cam adjuster and clip moved to the second clip?

I didn't have time to get into the tunnel adjustor cable to see if it is working correctly or not but hopefully today I can find some time?
Is there anyway to feel/tell if it is working correctly without removing it?

Thanks for all your help so far

 

[BigDog05]

Remember to set tunnel adjuster at full soft or full hard before you remove the cable.

That way you can put back together in same position.

 

[mtkaboater]

Looks like you're taking the skid out. It is way easier to do that then to do either of the other jobs with skid installed. At least you can check both along with everything else. Maybe install new hyfax too while it is out. And BigDog is correct, set the tunnel adjuster full one way or the other. If cable turns out to be broken, use an allen wrench to set the shock full the same way (hard or soft), then install new cable.

 

[studdog]

These sleds came stock set in the weakess clip position. Perhaps setting for more sag than spec for your weight might help. Nothing helped mine. Rides fine except in bad chop. Needs weaker spring or revalve or both IMO

 

[BigDog05]

I may be 100% wrong but I can't imagine the stock mono spring being too strong for a 210 lb rider. My wife has an 06 Vector Gt and goes 125-130 w/full gear. Still has her shock set in the 2-3 cam position on the shock. If I get on her sled and ride any type of rough trail it rides like crap. I go straight thru the shock travel because it is set too soft.

Call Bruce at Pioneer. Tell him how you ride etc. I do not jump anything, but do ride aggressively. When I went to the second C-clip on shock and full hard on shock cam, it helped the bottoming, but make it buck too much. Again this is a heavier RX1, but the revalve and heavier spring made it much, much better. Just my experience.

 

[studdog]

Bigdog05 might be right. I'm 190 but i can't bottom it unless real bad bump. Earlier mono's were soft and all the big guys were adding stiffer springs. I had a new one every year and never had a problem til 2010 Vector LTX GT.

 

[Irv]

These sleds came stock set in the weakess clip position. Perhaps setting for more sag than spec for your weight might help. Nothing helped mine. Rides fine except in bad chop. Needs weaker spring or revalve or both IMO

I am now wondering a couple things?

First of all, did I have my cam adjuster set way too soft and the rough/harsh ride I experienced have anything to do with bottoming out??
(I don't believe I bottomed out but then again this is my first Yamaha and was my very 1st ride?)

Second, when I had my skid out to replace the wheels/slides/bearings, did I somehow screw up the cable going to the shock??
This has me thinking it is maybe still set to full hard(did this on removal) so I was experiencing a harsh ride due to the shock being on stuck full hard??

I am 210 fully dressed and according to my sag, I have to go to the second clip so I don't believe my spring is too stiff?

My gut now tells me something is wrong with my side adjuster, Like I mentioned earlier, my 1st ride was harsh/rough and it shouldn't have been with the adjuster turned most of the way back towards full soft and my cam adjuster set on a lower setting as well??

I am going to grab the shock while someone turns the adjuter and see if I can feel some movement or at least the clicks in the shock? If I can't then I guess the shock will be coming out??

Thanks again guy's

 

[yox185]

I am going to grab the shock while someone turns the adjuter and see if I can feel some movement or at least the clicks in the shock? If I can't then I guess the shock will be coming out??

Turn the adjuster to full soft and step on the rear bumper and bounce the sled. Then turn to full hard and do the same. If the adjuster is working you will feel a difference.

 

[cannondale27]

I agree those adjusters make a huge difference.With shock out of sled it goes from easy to push in and fast rebound all the way to almost impossible to push in and all day for rebound.

 

[studdog]

good suggestion yox185

 

[Irv]

I am going to grab the shock while someone turns the adjuter and see if I can feel some movement or at least the clicks in the shock? If I can't then I guess the shock will be coming out??

Turn the adjuster to full soft and step on the rear bumper and bounce the sled. Then turn to full hard and do the same. If the adjuster is working you will feel a difference.

Easiest of things to check but the hardest to think about doing!

Awesome suggestion yox1865 I just did as you say and without a doubt it is working.
On full soft it went down easy and rebounded fairly quick and on the hardest setting it went down much harded and did not want to rebound nearly as fast.

Thanks again, saved me a lot of work and now I know for sure it is working properly