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Mono skid install. HELP!!!!

vmaxcrazy

Pro
Joined
Feb 5, 2005
Messages
171
Location
Swartz Creek, Mi
I'm about to put a stick of dynomite in the skid to just ease my fustration. I took out my rear suspension to do a complete overhaul and can't get it back in. I've done a search and found bits and peices of how others are doing it. What i've done so far.

1. undid limiter strap
2. onbolt one end of shock
3. unbolt one end of transfer rod

I have a engine hoist to lift rear of sled. So far I've ruined two front bushings tring to get front of skid in first. (Damn rivits keep busting off edge of bushings.) Are there step by step instructions how to do this. This is a 2006 Attak. I really hate to work on this sled. It seems to get to anything you have to take ten other parts off to get to it. Please help an old man get his sled ready to ride as our season is almost over. Thanks in advance, Dave. ( I feel better allready.)
 

compress the skid frame before trying to put it back under the sled. I used a smaller rachet strap. One other set of hands is always helpful. From a 66 year old LOL
 
Unhook the transfer rod from the rear swing arm. This will help you to move the rear scissors and line up the rear bolt holes.
 
Srxspec said:
Unhook the transfer rod from the rear swing arm. This will help you to move the rear scissors and line up the rear bolt holes.

I've done that. I can't get the front to go back enough to line-up with the frt mounying holes. I have the skid as loose as I can and it still wont line up. About how high do you raise rear of sled to get the front to line-up?
 
I just did the same thing. You MUST install front 1st. I had front end lift off ground with a sled /atv jack. Either undo limiter strap or transfer rod in order to have "free" play in rear to line up rear bolts. Have rear end lifted just enough to be able to move rear scissor into position. I broke 1 bushing trying to install my 1st time also!
 
Well I've now broke 6 bushings tring to get this skid in. I'll get more bushings and try again. If they break, sled will be for sale as, I've HAD IT!! This is by far the worst sled to work on. I've owned 10-12 Yamahas over the years but this one may cause me to go to another manufacturer. There I feel better again. I'll never sell, I just think I'm going to have to try to load it up and give it to a dealer to fix.
 
Calm down! LOL, I've been there! Grab a beer, soda, whateva it takes! Walk away from the sled and tackle it tomorrow. Did you try it my way yet or are you out of bushings...I'm being sarcastic. Try it again later.
 
I lift the rear on my jack stand. For the front axle, disconnect the limiter strap. I lift one side of the arm while my son lifts the other side and we line up the axle without damaging the bushings, and install the front bolts. In the rear remove the rear bolt on the transfer rod. Now the rear axle bolts should line up. After installing the rear bolts, lower the rear and install the rear transfer rod bolt, and then re-connect the limiter strap
 
I have owned all brands and the skid install on my gt was buy far the worst do it myself snowmobile experience i had ever had. I have found that the rachet strap method to work the best. Measure the center to center distance of the bolt holes in the tunnel and compress the skid to that dimension and it will go right back in. the trick is making sure the center to center is perfect before getting the skid into the track and the front bolts in. Good luck , I have had the big boy spring sitting on the bench for 2 months but i can not bring myself to deal with that mother ____ of a skid again.
 
WTF?? This is by far the easiest skid to install of all the Yami skids.

Tip the sled on it's side.

Make sure the rear of the transfer rod it unhooked (which you did).

The whole skid will collapse and you set it in the track.

Extend the track/skid out from the sled at about a 70deg angle. This will allow you room to slide the front arm into place. Sometimes you may need to set the rear idler wheel on a block to get the right angle. Get the first hole to line up..put the bolt in.

If you have 2 people you can have the second person put the other side's bolt in. One moves the arm into place..the other lays down and puts the bolt in.

If you're by yourself..tuck the suspension back in the sled and turn it over on it's other side and install the second bolt.

Now, the rear will slide up into position and may take a LITTLE effort to get the bolt to line up but it's not hard. Put the bolt in.

Flip the sled over...Put the last rear bolt in.

Go get your wife/buddy/weight/something to sit on the sled while you put the transfer rod bolt in.

I know it's alot of flipping..but it's not hard and it's WAY easier then working on a lift. I've done this without loosening the rear axle..I'm thinking the rear bolts may be easier to install if the track is loose. Once you get the proceedure down it's really easy...the PA skid was a pain in comparison.

Good luck!!
 
i glad i saw this post before attempting to overhaul my skid in the off season, does anyone have a step by step procedure with pic's on this?
 
LOL!!! As DoctorC said this is the easiest skid i have ever put in. I do it on my lift with a floor jack in about the center of the skid with a board between the track and the jack, Then you can balance the skid/track on the jack and jack/lift the front of the skid up in to place. The board keep's the slack in the track over the top and twords the rear of the skid instead of saging. Take your time and be a little creative, It is easy. Hope this help's and good luck. kviper
 
I never tipped the sled on it's side, that wouldn't work well for me with mirrors out there. I'm thinking he must have installed the rear first, and there's just no way that will work. I just lift the rear end WAY up in the air and do up the front, and then like someone above said a ratchet strap to compress the suspension a bit makes it simple. Just get the strap in place and ratchet it tighter until the holes align. No flipping, no shoving, no skinned knuckles...
 


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