Mountain riding with XTX

[leeman13]

Planning a trip to Crows nest pass in Alberta and wondering what would be the best mods to a stock 2012 Nytro XTX for mountain riding. Probably won't be higher then 6500 ft. I am thinking clutch kit and if so which one? Or which ski's would be good for up there? Anything else anyone can recommend.

 

[sonds]

Clutch kit, taller lug track, mtn. skis and a rov.

Not exactly in that order.

Really depends on much off trail your going to do?

 

[LSXM3]

Clutch kit, taller lug track, mtn. skis and a rov.

Not exactly in that order.

Really depends on much off trail your going to do?

Might as well add boost too while you're at it...

But seriously that is a good start but if it is only one trip you could just gas and go, sure you may not do the absolute best but you will still have an absolute blast....enjoy

 

[Mtnviper]

As a XTX mountain rider I would do the following mods.

Track, you can run a 2" Camoplast Challenger with the stock drivers no problem. The tunnel/heat exchanger protectors will need to be removed, but its easy to do while the track and skid are out.

Skis, Lots of good choices here, the main thing is that you'll want a ski in the 7" to 8" wide range.

Roll-over valve (shameless plug)!

Steering relocator, lots of posts on this and the OFT version is a good one.

For clutching/gearing, 19/40 gearing is a good all around mountain ratio for the XTX with a 2" track. Gearing down also reduces the chances of flat spotting your belt if you get stuck.

For clutching, you can run stock weights, only instead of installing the heavier rivits in the tips of the weights like shown in the clutching chart. I like to install the heaviest rivits in the heel and the lighter or empty in the tips. Same total mass as what the clutching chart shows, only you are moving the mass of the weight towards the pivot pin, which helps straighten out the shift RPM and improves primary clutch back shifting.
In the secondary a 39 or 43-39 helix works well.

Avy beacon, probe shovel and most importantly take an avy training class/practice using your beacon.

 

[Alatalo]

If your XTX is box stock, a better track is first priority, lower final ratio is second priority and better skis is third priority.

If you are going to use the same XTX also for trail riding, I would go for the Back Country 1.75" track. This option works also on the trail, at least on the soft trails. The Challenger 2" track is a slightly better track for pure powder riding, but you will struggle more when you get back on trail. Both of these options require removed stud protectors, if you have got them. Forget about higher lugs than 2" unless you swap the drivers.

You are going to use your new track for powder riding at relatively low velocity. In order to avoid running your clutches at a silly low ratio (= creating massive heat and eventually blowing the belt), you better gear down your final ratio. Your bottom gear is bloody expensive so you are better off keeping it, only changing the upper gear. You are looking for a final ratio on the higher side of 2:1, which means something in the area 18-20/40 or 18-19/39, depending on which bottom gear you have. In most cases, you will get away with a final ratio change without having to re-calibrate your clutches. If you still want to do something, increased side force in the secondary clutch is a good thing (= avoid slipping the belt when you are just about to get stuck). Loads of options listed on this site, I use the AC green secondary spring.

The up to 2011 OEM mountain ski is a good option ski that will improve your flotation drastically. This ski is basically an identical copy of SLP Powder Pro. Don't forget you need the complete mount kit as they are not the same. Forget about the most recent OEM mountain ski, it is nothing but crap.

 

[leeman13]

Would the stock windshield be okay to use or should I get a shorty one? I have a midcut with side deflectors now but gonna take it off so I don't wreck it out there.
Gonna try and get my track upgraded before the trip, other guy's I'm going with are all upgrading to, so i think i better to.

 

[Mtnviper]

I prefer a taller windshield as it helps deflect the snow in deep powder. When its deep and fun it amazing how much pow goes over the sled

Speaking of deep snow, another trick that you do to help reduce snow build up on the running boards is open up the slots some more. On the XTX you'll see where the bottom bracket closes off the slots somewhat. What I did was use a carbide buring tool in a die grinder to cut out the brackets underneeth so that they are the same size as the slot cut outs in the tunnel.

It's not as effective as air frames or other running board products, but it helps make it much easier to "stomp the snow through"!

 

[loudelectronics]

Planning a trip to Crows nest pass in Alberta and wondering what would be the best mods to a stock 2012 Nytro XTX for mountain riding. Probably won't be higher then 6500 ft. I am thinking clutch kit and if so which one? Or which ski's would be good for up there? Anything else anyone can recommend.

Oh boy this is going to be an expensive trip. Did the same thing last year and ended up with an MTX this year.

Get a camoplast 2" challenger. It is the most important thing you can do. If you dont have mountain skis get the yamaha MTX skis or if you need to save a few bucks go with the MT9 ski. I also geared down to a 20 tooth top gear.

I went with a backcountry track but it is very hard and it trenched terribly.

Pull your limiter straps up to decrease track approach angle. Cant stress this enough as it makes a big difference. Soften the rear suspension and give your self some more gc on the front by cranking up the shocks but at same time softening the compression.

Also make sure you are clutched for the elevation. I ran my prairie setup and it worked but still could have used more. I think it was the extra hp from the hindle and the increased hp that the super rat weights put down that helped me out in that department. Rode with a guy out there last year that had exact same setup as me, except hindle but was clutched for that elevation and it struggled. I just seemed to have more tracks spin everywhere.

 

[tmk50]

How long is this first trip?

If it is only a couple of days - maybe just focus on setting up you sled to run the best it can "as-is". Then you can figure out what YOU need to do based on how and where you ride.

It might end up saving you some money if you figure out you can live without some of these suggestions -

 

[leeman13]

3 days of riding. Might have to run stock yet as I haven't gotten money that I thought I would yet. But hope it comes in before that. Track is gonna be first purchase if I can afford it. Dealer told me $720 for camoplast 2" and my buddy has some external drivers I can put on to.
Were going to Crows nest pass and have another buddy that lives out there that is gonna take us around the first couple days then the four of us that are going out there are on our own the third day.
The other guy's all have 1 3/4 on one and 2" on the other two sleds. So it would be nice to be comparable to them. May just have to show them how to do it with 1 1/4".

 

[s1d3w1nd3r1480]

I would definitely do the track if going to the mountains. I rode last weekend in only 2 ft of powder here in Michigan and no real hills of any sort just some here and there where we could find them and more than once I ended up down to dirt. The amount of track spin I fought with was ridiculous. I had a heck of a time on some hills if I didn't have a good running start and easily got into trouble. It ended up being a lot of work and not a lot of fun because I couldn't do half of the things I wanted to with the sled. The ripsaw just isn't worth a penny off the trail anywhere if you ask me. I honestly expected better performance off trail than what I got, I knew I was gunna have to swap tracks eventually but was hoping I could squeeze by this season. Needless to say the Backcountry track is already ordered.

 

[Alatalo]

Don't waste your time going powder riding with a Ripsaw track because you will hate it. The Ripsaw is a pure trail track that should only be used on mid to hard trails. It is good for saving hyfax in these conditions. Though, because of the cut apart lug design, it has got zero forward drive in powder and it is even outperformed by any old Predator or Challenger 1".

If you can't afford a new track, look at used options of Challenger / Intense 1.5"-2.0" or Back Country 1.75". All of them will be a MASSIVE improvement compared to the Ripsaw.

 

[tmk50]

you might want to check the prices at tracksusa.com