mountain tech a-arms reports?

[herndonp]

Any reports from testers yet? A lot of us are waiting to hear before snow melts.

Pete

 

[sprintcat]

X 2

 

[rrxx-1]

Here you go, I posted this in another thread....


I am one of the testers. I have only a few moments right now to tell you all about the a arm kit. First, this is a very nice setup, very high quality, perfect fit, no prep work was needed by me at all to install my oil lite bushings and put the kit on the sled. Instructions provided were very thorough and easy to understand with pictures included. The best thing about this kit is that camber and caster are both adjustable independent of each other. This is great because even if you subframe is tweaked some you can adjust that out, and believe me, most of our subframes are tweaked slightly. I like the rod ends chosen for the kit, 3/4" lower, and 5/8" upper. So far I have set my sled up with 23 degrees caster, and -2 camber, and this works great.

I have not done a lot of riding on it yet, I hope to get more in this weekend. On the test rides I did do the one thing that really stands out is how much better it handles off trail. It doesn't feel like the sled wants to throw you off like the sled does stock. On the trail it seems to drive flatter, and feel more stable.

On my sled with my triple rate spring setup which sits a little lower than stock, my center to center of spindle is 43 1/2", and it pushes the skis forward about 2".

Like I said I will get more miles on this weekend, and hope to encounter different riding conditions. Thanks

Feel free to ask any questions.

 

[rrxx-1]

100 mile ride yesterday evening, and I am smiling, lol. THIS is the sled Yamaha needed to produce! My brother has the same sled but minus the Mountaintech a arm kit, his sled sucks, lol. His sled is stretched to 128", front springs set soft, and pilot skis, I couldn't wait to get off his sled. It is very easy to tell the improvement when you can ride two close to identical sleds back to back. Headed out for more riding today, -14F out now, going to be a cold one again.

 

[herndonp]

Thanks for the update RXX1. How is the inside ski lift on hard corners at speed. Keep the updates coming. Waiting on some from Grizz as well.

Pete

 

[rrxx-1]

There still is some inside ski lift, there is always going to be inside ski lift, as these rider forward chassis are way to tall for slot car type handling like the early 90's cat's zr's were. But then the big bumps will kill you if you go back to the "old" school sleds. There is a trade off, and I think this nytro chassis with this adjustable front end is the best of both worlds! It was very cold last weekend but I had a big smile under my helmet, and wanted to keep on riding. Don't get me wrong I have always liked my Nytro (after a few minor mods), but I REALLY like it now. This weekend I should be getting some seat time on my procross chassis F1100 turbo sno pro, so I can kind of see how that chassis compares.

 

[rrxx-1]

I probably won't get to play with this setup this year, but my plan is to add JRE spindles, and longer front shocks to see what this does to the sled, I have the spindles, but I do not have shocks yet. I am sure getting the front a little lower will really help this thing point and shoot on the trails....

 

[Snowman871]

Any comments on steering effort changes?

 

[rrxx-1]

I have found steering effort is related to caster adjustments, less caster less effort, more caster more effort. I really like mine around 24 degrees, steering effort is a tad more, but let go of the handle bar, and the sled tracks straight, you can come out of a corner and the steering will center it self. Less caster turns easier, but you lose the self centering, and gain twitchyness. Hope you understand what I am trying to put to words, lol.

 

[1nc 2000]

I am testing mountain tech a arms also. I received parts last weekend and installed them on sled this week.The install and set up of caster and camber was easy to do. Went out and rode 285 miles yesterday on all sorts of trails. This is a huge improvement over the stock set up that came from the factory with. Front end holds a good line thru the corner with the power on. I am running tuner skis with 6 and 4 inch carbides. I have some more steering effort than before because this front end just flat out works like its designed to.

 

[1nc 2000]

Another pic.

 

[ViperTurboPete]

Hopefully I am able to pick up my front end on Monday and start installing it after that. I will take sick days to get it installed. I am getting the 38 s with stabilizer mounts.

 

[rrxx-1]

Hopefully I am able to pick up my front end on Monday and start installing it after that. I will take sick days to get it installed. I am getting the 38 s with stabilizer mounts.

It really is a simple install. Best thing I did was when I put Grizz's subframe plates in I welded all the nuts for the arms in place, makes taking apart and changing arms a piece of cake. Hardest part on the install is installing the bushings (I used and recommend the oil lites).

 

[ViperTurboPete]

Hopefully I am able to pick up my front end on Monday and start installing it after that. I will take sick days to get it installed. I am getting the 38 s with stabilizer mounts.

It really is a simple install. Best thing I did was when I put Grizz's subframe plates in I welded all the nuts for the arms in place, makes taking apart and changing arms a piece of cake. Hardest part on the install is installing the bushings (I used and recommend the oil lites).

Hmmmm....welding the nuts for the arms in place? Is this something I would require to do or can I get away without welding? I don't have a welder, but have access to welders if absolutely necessary.

I have a set of MPI oilite bushings to install in the a arms. I will use a press to fit them in.

 

[rrxx-1]

No, it is not required, but it makes taking the a arms on and off, a million times easier, as you don't have to remove as much plastic, and try to hold on to the nut as you loosen the bolt. No welder required to do the a arm install.