New to me Nytro, questions.

[Rampking]

Hey guys,

Like a few others this season, I'm a new Nytro owner. I'm definitely a newbie to sledding, but I've been involved in a variety of motosports all my life.
So I have a 2008 Short track Nytro (I believe thats called an RTX???) it has 4000 km. I did replace the front subframe with a 2012, and just had Grizz tracks Gusset kit welded in, frame is now primed and painted, reinstalled. I was going to replace the bushings on the control arms. Would you guys use the CR Oilite kit or replace with OEM? Also my tie rods and ball joints are getting replaced, which ones would you order? I am currently running the stock ski's, they will need the carbides replaced, which ones work best?

I've read lots about the mountain tech kit, but before I dive into that, I wanna run this sled for a year and see where I stand with it.

Rampking

 

[raginyamaha]

Buy the mountaintech kit and sell your old arms. So much better. Definitely need oilite bushings unless you want to replace the junk plastic ones every weekend. Had a 2008 with stock arms and now a 13 with mountaintech arms and it’s way better

 

[Rampking]

Yeah I know the Mountaintech is the be all end all of the Nytro. Problem for me is, I want to make sure this little sled is what I'm into. so I want to set it up properly stock, ride it this year, if I like it, I'll likely buy the MT kit for next season. The MT kit is a $1000 bill for a Canadian.

 

[raginyamaha]

Get all the “slop” out of the front end and make sure toe is 1/2 to 1/8 inch out. I preferred shaper bars for carbides when I had the old stock ski. A ski upgrade wouldn’t hurt. Even a set of tuners are nice if your not really riding super hard thru corners. Not my favorite ski. Rode tuners last year and switching to curve skis this year. Tuners we great as long as I was going straight

 

[Rampking]

Get all the “slop” out of the front end and make sure toe is 1/2 to 1/8 inch out. I preferred shaper bars for carbides when I had the old stock ski. A ski upgrade wouldn’t hurt. Even a set of tuners are nice if your not really riding super hard thru corners. Not my favorite ski. Rode tuners last year and switching to curve skis this year. Tuners we great as long as I was going straight

When people say curve skis, what model curve ski are we talking here?
Ok so Oilite kit it is for the bushings.

 

[maim]

you can go aftermarket for the ball joints and tie rods but be aware that they do not last as long as the oe parts when ridden moderate to hard. they might only make a year or 2 but if are undecided, that might be enough.

 

[Rampking]

you can go aftermarket for the ball joints and tie rods but be aware that they do not last as long as the oe parts when ridden moderate to hard. they might only make a year or 2 but if are undecided, that might be enough

 

[Rampking]

Where does one purchase the Oilite bushing kit?

 

[yam429]

Ulmer Racing.

 

[RobX-1]

When people say curve skis, what model curve ski are we talking here?

Curve XS skis

https://barnofparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7077708?siteId=134334799&locale=en-US

 

[DGZRT]

My Brother had a 2008 shorty for 13000 miles . You are replacing the correct parts to make it durable . I never did like the shorty compared to the XTX but you can make it work . What I would do is find a Steering post relocate kit . I'm thinking Barn of parts made one. The steering was at to funky of an angle for me, but the relocate helps . Skip the expensive curve skis and just get the Yamaha Tuners with the Double keel . I'm hear to say you can throw a ton of money at the front end looking for perfection and your not going to find it on that sled .

Rebuild shocks first . If you have the Clicker type with Compression and rebound set the Compression Clicker ( up at the top of shock ) to full soft
Set the rebound to 8 clicks from soft . To little of rebound and it kicks back . Make small adjustments 1-click at a time to dial it in . Get your front end off the ground and loosen the shock springs up until you can move the springs up and down just a little . Then tighten rings up 2 turns . This will make the "A" arms level and will help with ski lift . I fought my Brother on this for two years . He kept wanting to tighten everything up and make it stiffer ! It made for a beast to turn with all the weight over the skis .

On this front end you will need to start with the skis 1/4" toed out . you might have to go up to 1/2" out . I'm not sure but Barn of parts might make a MPS ( mechanical power steer kit ) for the Nytro Buy that instead of the expensive skis!

With rebuilt shocks in the rear my brother never complained very much . We sucked the limiter strap up one hole and loosened up the front shock spring to full soft and kept tightening it until he felt the steering was light enough .

He never had a big problem with it at all ran perfect until the day he sold it . We did have a ball joint pop on the trail . That sucked I had a screw driver bent in there to hold it together for 30 miles . Maybe carry a few bolts and nuts that are the proper length and Dia for the ball joint .

Over all it's a dependable machine with good low end grunt . Very easy to work on !

I reread your post. RTX had air shocks I believe? Get rid of them and find some good old coil over shocks ....... you will thank me .

 

[yam429]

Snowtrackers are another option. Just bolt them on the existing stock Yamaha ski. Got them on my XTX & I love them.

 

[DGZRT]

Snowtrackers are another option. Just bolt them on the existing stock Yamaha ski. Got them on my XTX & I love them.

I have Snow trackers on all three of my sleds and swear by them . I just have no experience with them on a Nytro. If they work on this sled get them and just keep your OEM skis

 

[Rampking]

Thanks fellas for the help, the Oilite bushing kit at Ulmer racing is out of stock for the 2008. Will 2010 kit fit the 2008?
Anyone know where else I can purchase this kit for a 2008?

Also what snow trackers do I get? semi aggressive, aggressive???

 

[Rampking]