MPI Trail kit; 3rd party boost controller

alexm2816

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2016 SR Viper LTX-DX Turbo
I'm adding a gauge to replace the existing boost gauge and AFR (cheapy that was laying around) that I had installed.

I'm torn between an AEM gauge and an Innovative motorsports gauge that both display the AFR and boost in a single gauge. The difference; the IM gauge also includes a programmable boost controller for the same price.

I know MPI sells a boost controller that is plug and play and it was on my wish list, but the gauge with the controller is less than just the controller from MPI. I'm just wondering about the following specifically.

1. Is there a relatively simple method to bypass the existing boost control? Has anyone done this?

2. Will I see the same benefit as the MPI boost controller kit with electronic control vs the stock mechanical control?

3. Am I asking for trouble in the event of a failure of the 3rd party controller? I know the benefit of the MPI kit is that it fails to safe.

Thanks all, any and all feedback is appreciated.
 
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You seem to have many of the same questions I did.

First off I tried the innovate two in one gauge (psb1). Bad idea. This gauge is crazy expensive and does not handle moisture. First ride water got into it. By the second ride it fu**ed off.

Second, stick with the mpi eabc. The altitude boost controller works very well and it's plug and play. At low altitude I see 4.5 psi fairly consistently.
In the "mountain" att higher altitude I see 6psi. The sled works the same throughout.
The big things I plan on changing is , header ( already orderd ) and the in er cooler. I find on days above freezing I am down on power and I think the cooler would help. Plus once I turn the boost up I will need the cooler and header.
 
Good info to know, Joe. I'll steer back to the AEM unit and save my pennies for the controller when that day comes.
 
Ya. No problem. I'll be putting the aem gauges also. Atleast then if it craps out it's cheaper to replace.
On the afr subject. I had issues with the bung placement. It seems to cause problems with sensors, being right after the turbo on the new trail kit.

After putting 3000 miles on my trail turbo. I think as far as performance goes the gems controller limits tuning.

I'm going to give it one more try this winter. If I can't get my afr numbers where they should be ill go to the pc5.
 
Go whit pc5 and autotune. !

Geems SUCK big time......
 
Had trouble for a complete season with aem gauges. Couldn't keep moisture out of them no matter what I did, boost gauge eventually bit the dust half way through the season.
 
Seems all gauges are you Crap shoot from different opinions. I just ordered aem gauges! Wish me luck.
 
Go whit pc5 and autotune. !

Geems SUCK big time......
Byam,

Does the autotune do what I think it does?

Adjust fuel mapping to some baseline based on AFR?
 
Byam,

Does the autotune do what I think it does?

Adjust fuel mapping to some baseline based on AFR?

I went with the pc5 pti and as recommended by Allen Ulmer I just went with a good base map, which he provided and that is the way to go! Startup is spot on whether hot or cold and his map was almost perfect from 8 pounds up to 10 pounds. Only thing we adjusted was wide open throttle fuel as it was plenty rich and could've been leaned out some. But I'd have much rather it been too rich than too lean. If there's any chance at all that you'll consider upgrading in the future to run more boost, go with the pc5 pti right from the start.
 
I went with the pc5 pti and as recommended by Allen Ulmer I just went with a good base map, which he provided and that is the way to go! Startup is spot on whether hot or cold and his map was almost perfect from 8 pounds up to 10 pounds. Only thing we adjusted was wide open throttle fuel as it was plenty rich and could've been leaned out some. But I'd have much rather it been too rich than too lean. If there's any chance at all that you'll consider upgrading in the future to run more boost, go with the pc5 pti right from the start.

It's certainly on my radar. With the way the 2016.5 motors (rods/cranks) are in limbo I may wait a season or two and at that point it may be easier to just save my bucks and look at a sidewinder.
 
Looking forward to trying my new setup. I went with the pcv pti, bigger injectors and straigtline header.

I'll be using a turbo smart boost tee instead of the eabc. Hopefully it will work well.
 
Looking forward to trying my new setup. I went with the pcv pti, bigger injectors and straigtline header.

I'll be using a turbo smart boost tee instead of the eabc. Hopefully it will work well.
Did you go with bigger injectors for more boost or just the extra safety?
 
Did you go with bigger injectors for more boost or just the extra safety?
the bigger injectors are recommended with this tune from ulmer. he said that without them you could lean out at wot. plus they are there when the boost goes up next year.
 
the bigger injectors are recommended with this tune from ulmer. he said that without them you could lean out at wot. plus they are there when the boost goes up next year.

Joe, any tips for those of us about to embark on the header install? I know you had some fitment issues.

I'm thinking I can get away with maintaining the stockers as I'm a late model 2016 so no real opportunity for big boost.
 
Joe, any tips for those of us about to embark on the header install? I know you had some fitment issues.

I'm thinking I can get away with maintaining the stockers as I'm a late model 2016 so no real opportunity for big boost.
The header is a bit of a fu@@ around getting lined up.

Best bet is to install the header on the engine first. Then loosely install the header to mid pipe bolts with the two turbo mounts loose. After everything is loosely installed tighten all bolts and mounts as per mpi instructions on there website. It's very important to tighten in the right order.
 


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