MTX Low Elevation Changes?

wait till you have to price out the chain and upper 22 tooth gear you need to compliment the weights, rivets and spring you need for the COMPLETE low elevation set up.

worse case scenario buy a set of supertips, or heelclickers or heavy hitters for low elevation. be cheaper than 123.00 ea arm for sure. i am guessing that price is wrong. most of the arms are 30-50 list each. ski
 
skidooboy said:
wait till you have to price out the chain and upper 22 tooth gear you need to compliment the weights, rivets and spring you need for the COMPLETE low elevation set up.

worse case scenario buy a set of supertips, or heelclickers or heavy hitters for low elevation. be cheaper than 123.00 ea arm for sure. i am guessing that price is wrong. most of the arms are 30-50 list each. ski

I'm not changing the gearing or chain for low elevation. I'm actually considering gearing it down even more. I don't ride around here enough....and even if I did, I would still leave the gearing as set stock in the MTX. Most of my riding is done out west. I could care less about top speed. I'm not a lake racer! I want the low end pull for the trails and off trail around here.

I also believe that the price was incorrect. Never in my life have a paid that for one weight...a complete set, yes.
 
I just picked up my MTX and it's geared 20/40. Dealer said this was good for 0-4000 ft. I know they made a couple clutching changes but they didn't touch the gears.
 
Nikolai said:
I just picked up my MTX and it's geared 20/40. Dealer said this was good for 0-4000 ft. I know they made a couple clutching changes but they didn't touch the gears.

That is incorrect.

I had Yamaha fax me the tuning specs for the Nytro MTX. They are as follows:

0-4500 ft: 22T/40T/70L
4000-8500 ft: 21T/40T/70L
8000-10000 ft: 20T/40T/68L (This is the factory setting for the MTX)
 
If I'm actually geared lower than I'm suppose to be I guess that isn't a bad thing. Unless I misunderstood him somehow.
 
Nikolai said:
If I'm actually geared lower than I'm suppose to be I guess that isn't a bad thing. Unless I misunderstood him somehow.

As I mentioned above, I would leave it geared lower...especially if mountain riding.

Your dealer is correct in making the clutch changes. Here is what Yamaha recommends:

2000-4500 ft: Blue-Brown-Blue Primary Spring, and one 13.3mm steel rivet in each hole of clutch weight. 8-10 has no rivets and a Green-White-Green Primary Spring.
 
anyone have part numbers for the mtx flat land specification parts?

blue brown blue primary spring

17.2 steel tuning rivets
13.3 steel tuning rivets with hole

22 tooth gear

23 tooth gear (testing purposes)

70 link chain
 
17.2 steel rivets 90261-06033-00
13.3 steel with hole 90266-06002-00

22 tooth gear 8FA-17682-20-00
23 tooth gear 8FA-17682-30-00

70 Link chain 94890-09070-00

blue brown blue primary spring 90501-580A2-00

Hope this help!
 
go200mph said:
Talk about shock. I just got a price of nearly $450 to do the sea level change.
You may want to get a second opinion on that. If you don't want to keep your hi-ele parts, it should be labor only thing. It took me less than 2-hours to do it, and I wasn't trying to break any speed records.
 
go200mph said:
Talk about shock. I just got a price of nearly $450 to do the sea level change.

Tell me about it!!

The pricing problem is in the weights. Yamaha is running an 8FS00 weight in the MTX Nytro's for some reason, and the price on this weight is $123.00/each plus rivets!! From what several dealers have told me, they run a different weight in the short tracks which cost $38.00/each.

All of the dealers I have spoke with are scratching their heads as to the different weights...and HUGE price difference!! I'm waiting on a call back to see if I can run the short track weight for low elevation riding for the little riding I do back home.

The Blue-Brown-Blue spring is about $19.00.
 


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