muffler temperature??

[**sj**]

not sure on the fourstroke..
but on my 2 stroke with triple pipes the under hood temps dropped dramatically and the outer surface of the exhaust was relatively cooler to the touch..maybe a one -two punch of coating and the insulating material?

 

[mach9]

I've read that some have tried exhuast wrap (rolls) and that worked to a degree and lasted longer if treated.
But in time the wraps broke down and some have reported concerned with steel rot.
Plus the job is tedious and best done with the header off.
After some reading around other places, I've learned that the glass type blanket is designed to have some spaces and seams here and there to allow some of the heat to escape and dry out.
Then... I can't see how or do I intend to try and seal the exhaust completely with this product.
But rather to cover certain main areas as much as possible.
With the intention to lower the surface area that is washed with snow thus creating less misty water vapor.

 

[fergdog93]

I was thinking of getting my exhaust ceramic coated, then heat wrapped, then boxing it in between the tunnel protectors and the top of the tunnel. I was figuring that this would keep the heat in the pipe, and not melt my seat. I'm looking at this for a summer mod, I don't wanna tear the sled down this time of year.

 

[billymx815]

The amount of energy that passes through the exhaust as heat will be the same with or without insulation. Insulation will slow the heat loss from the exhaust where it is applied but will not eliminate it. A majority of the heat normally transferred to snow and air from an un-insulated exhaust will now exit the end of the pipe, which should actually lower the under seat temp. The problems I see with adding insulation directly to the exhaust are increasing the rate of heat-affected corrosion (the pipe and muffler will be much hotter) and trapping moisture on cool down.

The insulating effect of ceramic coating on the exhaust is trivial. The layer is only microns thick and therefore would provide an R-factor of virtually zero. The benefit of ceramic coating is its capacity to slow heat-affected corrosion by providing a barrier from oxygen.

X2 - I would also add that there will be an increased breakdown of packing in the muffler etc.

 

[BombaPolaYama]

The amount of energy that passes through the exhaust as heat will be the same with or without insulation. Insulation will slow the heat loss from the exhaust where it is applied but will not eliminate it. A majority of the heat normally transferred to snow and air from an un-insulated exhaust will now exit the end of the pipe, which should actually lower the under seat temp. The problems I see with adding insulation directly to the exhaust are increasing the rate of heat-affected corrosion (the pipe and muffler will be much hotter) and trapping moisture on cool down.

The insulating effect of ceramic coating on the exhaust is trivial. The layer is only microns thick and therefore would provide an R-factor of virtually zero. The benefit of ceramic coating is its capacity to slow heat-affected corrosion by providing a barrier from oxygen.

X2 - I would also add that there will be an increased breakdown of packing in the muffler etc.

So then, do I understand that corrosion is also an issue with the stainless exhaust/muffler if wrapped?

So, maybe not a good idea then. It would be virtually impossible to completely wrap it and seal it secure enough to keep moisture out - it would be even more difficult if only doing a portion of the exhaust system, such as the muffler. What if just a plate was used to enclose the muffler without any wrapping; would that help? This is also a problem on the VL and we also have the exhaust outlet in the tunnel, so the first thing that has to be done is to make up an extension to get it to exit out the rear.

 

[arteeex]

Stainless does corrode and heat will accelerate the process, though not to the extent of carbon steel in the same application. Wrapping the pipe and muffler will increase the temps the seen inside the pipe because heat transfer to the environment is reduced. And, at 1200F, the exhaust gasses are not all that friendly to the inside of the pipes. The most susceptible areas for corrosion attack are the welds and sections where heavy strain (think, sharp bends or creases) was induced during the forming operations.

My approach was to ceramic coat the flex joints and header and then lay in a big shield to reduce the amount of snow vaporizing on the exhaust and refreezing on the tunnel. So far I think this is working well. If the absence of an obvious problem is an indicator of future events, then I’m all good.

 

[BombaPolaYama]

Ok thanks Arteeex - good info - glad I read this post. So I think after I do the pipe extension I will then put in an aluminum shield and hopefully not get too much heat build-up. If it does not work at least it won't be any worse; and I'm putting a nice stainless tip on the rear exit so at least it will look unique and cool (lol)

 

[ruffryder]

I was thinking of getting my exhaust ceramic coated, then heat wrapped, then boxing it in between the tunnel protectors and the top of the tunnel. I was figuring that this would keep the heat in the pipe, and not melt my seat. I'm looking at this for a summer mod, I don't wanna tear the sled down this time of year.

be careful with this. You need to let the heat out. If it gets too hot under your gas tank, you might boil the gas and then the fuel pump has a hard time pumping vapor..

 

[BooBoo]

Running railroad grades at night at high speed my mbrp I had on mine would be cherry red inside!

Your GLOW HOLE LOL Thats what we use to call it LOL

 

[r1usn]

At the end of my first ride of the season, I had a huge block of ice attached to the back of the tunnel. Which is pretty typical of what i saw all last year. So, i went to home depot bought a 12 by 18 sheet of aluminum, bent up 3 sides and bolted it to the bottom of the tunnel protecters underneath the muffler. I haven't had any big blocks of ice since. And there is still plenty of ventilation. It was really easy to do, and cost about $15.

 

[Mooseman]

At the end of my first ride of the season, I had a huge block of ice attached to the back of the tunnel. Which is pretty typical of what i saw all last year. So, i went to home depot bought a 12 by 18 sheet of aluminum, bent up 3 sides and bolted it to the bottom of the tunnel protecters underneath the muffler. I haven't had any big blocks of ice since. And there is still plenty of ventilation. It was really easy to do, and cost about $15.

Hey r1usn, do you have any pics? I think I have an idea of what your talking about.

 

[yamafreak]