My first sled - 2007 Apex GT - questions

[thor452]

I would still check the drive shaft bering by the speed sensor very easy to check and lube very expensive if it was not maintained and fails.

 

[snowxwi]

I can follow the steps in the Apex FAQ, correct?

 

[snowxwi]

Also, what grease is recommended for the driveshaft/jackshaft bearings? Is it wise for me to just change the bearing instead of greasing it?

 

[Blue Dave]

The driveshaft bearing on the speedo side is about $25 and is very easy to change without having to pull the axle or skid. This by far is the bearing that fails most often because of its location causing it to be susceptible to water contamination.

Some guys swear by pulling the bearing side seal off yearly to clean and re-grease the bearing. I think if it is done yearly the bearing will last a very long time. However in your case if the bearing is original and has never been "serviced", you are running on borrowed time and it should be replaced.

Just remove the retaining plate, speedo sensor and the speedo sensor "gear" located below your secondary clutch on the outside of the tunnel. Loosen the track tension and then remove the two Torx set screws on the bearing collar on the inside of the tunnel.

If you have the time, spray some penetrating oil on the inner and outer parts of the bearing from the outside and inside and into the set screw holes and let it sit overnight. The next day the bearing should slide off the end of the drive axle with the help of a pry bar from inside the tunnel.

 

[snowxwi]

Anyone have a part number on that driveshaft bearing for an 07 Apex? I will pick one up and just change it. I would hate to be stranded without a sled once we have snow.

Any ideas on the best grease to use for these bearings?

 

[Blue Dave]

Anyone have a part number on that driveshaft bearing for an 07 Apex? I will pick one up and just change it. I would hate to be stranded without a sled once we have snow.

Any ideas on the best grease to use for these bearings?

p/n 93306-20589-00 for the bearing. The bearing will come with grease in it already. I would also buy two new collar set screws p/n 90113-06006-00

 

[snowxwi]

Thanks for the info. Hopefully the dealer has the bearing/screws. I will do it Monday. You might be hearing from me if I can't get it figured out. I'm not the most mechanically savvy person.

 

[SnofishersBuddy]

I'd also put the cap on. It seems to help the longevity of that bearing. It keeps the ice off the inside seal of it.

Part # 8FN-47377-00-00 Its on anything 2010 and newer track drive 1 fiche.

 

[thor452]

on the bearing i have my original one still in have greased it every year. I have 7000 miles on it. when you inspect it if it is not rusted it should be fine but seeing as its new to you cheap ins. would be to change it. not real hard if you have a garage and tools but can be a few hours of work if you are not real tech savvy. a good visual inspect clean and grease would work if you know what to look for. as for the grease any would do but a marine formula is best

 

[biffdotorg]

Yes, that is what I meant by the brake and brake light.

The parking brake is separate from the hand brake. These were two separate issues. The switch in the handbrake sometimes becomes corroded and will not light the brake light.

The lever to flip over to lock the parking brake is all mechanical, and has no inicator light of it being engaged or not. You just have to get in the habit of checking it when going on and off the trailer. I think that is the only time people use them, unless during warm up.

Good luck!

 

[Scooter02]

We buy all of our sleds from Donahue Super Sports, very knowledgable and helpful people. Good luck with the sled, I tore into mine last year after reading everything I possibly could on this site. I have 7000miles on my Apex and have replaced the bearing twice. Now I will be greasing them every spring. I would also do the front end bushings in the spring when you do an oil change since it will be apart anyways. If you run into questions, ask. The people on this site are the best.

 

[PowderPoacher]

I bought my 40th new 12/08. Tore it down this summer at 4189 miles to address common problems.

Both of my driveshaft bearings were junk. One was rusty inside, the other didn't look as bad but did not turn freely. Jackshaft bearings were OK, but replaced them anyhow while sled was apart.

Exhaust donuts were junk too. Sled made a ticking sound at idle - like low oil.

I blew the rear shock at end of second season and had that rebuilt last summer. Had Kinney Racing here in Schofield rebuild it.

This sled has never once left me walking, or have to turn around and go home early. I could ride it to the moon and back and be confident that it would make the trip. It just flat-out reliably hauls #*$&@.

Every year I change the oil, chain lube, hyfax and carbides. Do that, watch the bearings and donuts, and you'll be a happy camper.

 

[snowxwi]

Thanks for all the info, it was all helpful. Unfortunately I don't have a lot of the tools/knowledge to really take this thing apart.

I am going to try to get a look at the drive shaft bearing and see how bad it is. For all I know it was changed or greased this spring. Everything on this thing is immaculate. The exhaust donuts were replaced in April so the guy had a good idea of what preventative maintenance needed to be done.

IF I decided the bearings need to be replaced, how much would it cost to have the dealer do it (estimate)? I really don't feel comfortable doing more than accessing them and greasing them at this point. Like I said, I don't have some of these tools. Just kind of nervous about the whole thing. From the pictures and step by step instructions, it seems that greasing them is pretty simple, but actually changing them out may be a bigger job? If it's just a matter of removing a few more things to remove them I might attempt it with some help. Would it be worth it for me to invest in all the things I will need to do this job myself and just learn it? Can I do much damage or is it pretty straight forward?

I think this lack of snow is making me a bit crazy. I would like to just take it out and see what it's made of and see if I can hear or feel any problems. I am going to replace the plugs hopefully tomorrow with CR10EKs so maybe that will give me a bit of confidence.

 

[Blue Dave]

Snowxwi,

The driveshaft bearing on the speedometer side is the one that fails most frequently and it is the easiest one to replace. All you will need is a metric socket set and a T20 Torx bit. I have attached below a picture of the bearing and the T20 bit. You can see the two Torx set screws in the collar of the bearing. If you run into problems feel free to give me a call at 612-868-7686 and I will be happy to walk you through it over the phone.

Just remove the retaining plate, speedometer sensor and the speedometer sensor "gear" located below your secondary clutch on the outside of the tunnel. Loosen the track tension and then remove the two Torx set screws on the bearing collar on the inside of the tunnel.

If the bearing does not want to slide off of the shaft when pushed from inside the tunnel, spray some penetrating oil on the inner and outer diameters of the bearing from the outside and the inside and into the set screw holes and let it sit overnight. The next day the bearing should slide off the end of the drive axle with the help of a pry bar from inside the tunnel.

I started out intending to just change this bearing. However with the lack of snow I decided to do a major maintenance project as you can see in these pictures. If I can't ride my sled I may as well work on it. Either way I am spending money! LOL

 

[Blue Dave]

I'd also put the cap on. It seems to help the longevity of that bearing. It keeps the ice off the inside seal of it.

Part # 8FN-47377-00-00 Its on anything 2010 and newer track drive 1 fiche.

Thanks for the info. I am assuming that this can be added to older models like my '07. If so I am certainly going to add it.