need fast advice on studing

[NEED SNOW]

Im studing my new RX-1 this weekend, 144, My sled has ski lift in hard turns. We do a lot of drag racing. So I would like to stud it on the out side too. Will this add to the ski lift? I feel like if I just stud down the middle, it would hurt the hole shots...Thanks...Gary.

 

[jtssrx]

Yes it will. Stay in the center and a longer stud. What length are you going with???

 

[Mighty]

Middle only.

 

[sledheadgeorge]

I WOULD STICK TO THE MIDDLE AS WELL AND ADD THE 4TH WHEEL KIT ON THE REAR OF THE SKID. THIS WILL GIVE YOU GOOD HOOK UP AND NOT RECK YOUR RIDE IN THE CORNERS.

 

[NEED SNOW]

I have 1.40. It looks like they are just over 1/4" over lugs. So, both of you think going out side will add to the ski lift...Thats not what I wanted to hear, but Im happy you guys are honest with me...

 

[BLUEDOG]

Studding

The advice is correct from all of my experience of studding, the only thing I did different when studding the center only was to make my pattern as close to the rails as possible and not stud the usual 2 in the very middle of the track (somewhat useless). Hope this helps.

 

[NEED SNOW]

1 Day to go,, Looks like it's down the middle only. To bad, I think it will hurt my drag runs. But if out side studs are that bad in corners, then I will probably go down the middle too...

 

[RobX-1]

Need Snow,

The one thing nice with going down the center only is that you can choose a pattern where if you feel more are needed, you can simply stud the outer belts. I too when just down the center with 1.325" Mega Bites. I thought it wasn't going to be enough either but to-date, have yet to stud the outer belts. I say stud down the center and then see if it is enough. If not, stud the outer belts.

 

[Bossman]

If you are going down the center only I would start with 96 picks. Then if you decide to go for the outer belts you can add on the extra 48. But if you put all 144 in the center then stilll want studs on the outer belt you will end out with a 192 pick pattern which I believe is way o much if you are trail riding this sled, and you will start to loose top end with all the weight.

 

[wolfie]

I think your whole premise about studding and ski lift is wrong. Obviously if you have more studs, you'll have better hookup, which is what you want if you want to drag race your buddies alot. On the other hand, alot of hookup can cause more ski lift. So if that's an issue, adjust out the transfer or coupling in the skid. Studding is about traction, pure and simple, more studs, more traction. This is the classic tradeoff with transfer/coupling, and really has little to do with studding. I don't do alot of drag racing, and prefer better power on cornering characteristics, i.e., less ski lift when I'm on the gas. In other words, I'll sacrifice hookup for better handling. It's hard to jam through the turns if your skis are off the ground everytime you get on the gas. Typically, you'll find a balance. Make adjustments in small increments, as one can affect the other. As far as studding goes, the concept is as many scratch lines as possible, with many studs near the rails so they will penetrate the surface better, and not be affected by track flex. A standard 3 or 4 lug repeat pattern can be varied about a half inch either way, which will give you more scratch lines, than if you just repeated the pattern exactly. Stay away from the center of the belt, and if you do go on the outside belts, give yourself at least an inch from the edge to prevent tearouts.

 

[RX1 Yooper]

Wolfie,
Very good and accurate information. I knew the other posts were wrong, but was afraid to post the correct info. I'm glad you did, and I hpoe he follows your advice.

 

[buddah]

505 posts????? Do you ever have time to ride????

 

[RX-Dave]

Proven over and over, that a stud between the rail, adds more forward tration than one on the outside of the rail. On the outside, they are only about 60% as effective as one in the midde. Since there is no support out there, no wight is pushed down on the stud.

Also with drag racing, there are allot of things to consider. A big one is how easy it is for the stud to enter the ice and leave the ice. A stud in the middle is supported good enough to enter nice and square to the ice (when looking from behind the stud). A stud on the outside, with no support, will "rock" back and forth as it enters the ice, rolls over the wheels, and when it leaves. This will not hurt speed, but will actually keep the stud from being effective.

This is a long time adage, like the fountain of youth. A good trail, and a good lake setup.

The only way to go, if you want good bare ice, and good trail performance, is with T-Nuts. A woody's 60 Degree Carbide T-Nut stud is very narrow. Basically, a drag pic without the razor sharp tip. The low profile of these studs will actually make it very effective on the ice, and will penetrate (hook) much better than a push-thru style stud. The bigger the body of the stud, the easier it will grab the ice.

Another good note, that using Woody's dished T-nuts, and round aluminum backers, will save ya about 5 lbs of rotating weight too.

People will spend $8500 on a sled, and $2500 on hop ups, and put 5 minutes of thought into how they stud a sled, and wonder why they can't put that power to the ground.

 

[RX1 Yooper]

Have any of you looked at the tracks of any of the top ice draggers? I was just wondering if they have studs outside the rails.

 

[RTX Meirda]

Keep in the centre!

Too muck force on the outer belts!

I have a finger track...piece of crap.

Last year one of the woody pulled out.

It was clean so I continue to use it.

Went for a ride yesterday...another wants to let go. It did not completely leave. It is still attached to the track by a small piece of rubber.

The worst part is it punctured the front heat exchanger. Coolant everywhere!

Now I need a track and heat exchanger and studs!!!

The season has not even started yet!