I have torn down my 1st 4-stroke (done lots o 2-strokes) performance engine and made my 1st mistake. I removed the valve covers and small pads underneath and placed them in their own box - I did not realize that these pads were different and numbered for size. After doing some reading in the service manual, I got after I had already torn it down, it says to put them all back in their original place - well, I now do not know where the original place was for each one. And the service manual doesn't say either.
I would imagine all the 05 RX1's are the same - is this correct? If so, does anyone else have recorded which go where or know how I can find out?
Thanks in advance.
I would imagine all the 05 RX1's are the same - is this correct? If so, does anyone else have recorded which go where or know how I can find out?
Thanks in advance.
Ted Jannetty
TY 4 Stroke God
77srxdude said:
Your going to have to install the cams with what you have, check and record lash clearance, then pull cams and swap shims to get to desired lash.
install the cams and recheck.
Ted.
peteracing
Expert
You have to measure valve clearences with a felergauge and compare with the manual specs. You are going to have to be patient on this 
...
...Sweet - something I have never done before and have no clue how to do - but I will learn as usual 
I found the specs:
Valves, valve seats, valve guides:
Valve clearance (cold)
Intake
0.11 0.20 mm (0.0043 0.0079 in)
Exhaust
0.21 0.25 mm (0.0083 0.0098 in)
So I just keep checking the valve clearance (with the feeler gauge) with different pads till they get in the range? Looks like I am gonna be torqin a lot of bolts down over and over
Thanks Everyone
I found the specs:
Valves, valve seats, valve guides:
Valve clearance (cold)
Intake
0.11 0.20 mm (0.0043 0.0079 in)
Exhaust
0.21 0.25 mm (0.0083 0.0098 in)
So I just keep checking the valve clearance (with the feeler gauge) with different pads till they get in the range? Looks like I am gonna be torqin a lot of bolts down over and over
Thanks Everyone
77srxdude said:
As Ted says, you need to put the cams back in, then measure to establish a baseline. I've put together the attached .xls that should help to speed up the process of getting you back to the proper clearances. Record the shim values in the spreadsheet as you put the head together, and then enter your measured values. The sheet will calculate the shims you need for min/max or desired spec (you have to enter a desired spec in the upper left box). For boosted applications, I'd suggest setting to the max side of the spec. If you read through the RX engine build (sticky above) there is some additional information on shimming the valves.
The attached spreadsheet has the final shims/measured values as the head went onto the customer's sled.
Thanks for that tool lakeracer - all your shim sizes are considerably less than that of my sled. I only looked at 3-4 shims but they were numbers like 199 and 200.
77srxdude said:
Yeah, that's pretty typical of how they leave the factory. Putting a few thousand miles on the motor (especially at high RPM's), and then shimming close to the max. tolerance (like this motor was) will bring the shim numbers down quite a bit.
Attached is the original sheet for a customer's motor when we first opened it up. The intakes especially were pretty tight, and quite a few shims were closer to what you're probably seeing in yours.
Jonny Rocket
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Yes the sheet lakercr made is the best. It makes the job way easy. He helped me A LOT when I did my valves. It if wasn't for him, I would still be up &%it creek w/o a paddle.
J.
J.
givemeaboost
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I think you are going to find out that this is an engine that you do not want to get in a big hurry to reassemble. Take your time and read old posts about mistakes others have made so you don't do more than you have allready. I know that you are eager to get it going but one small mistake can be real big on the wallet, Ken.
givemeboost - I have spent probably 5 hours over the last two days reading and re-reading the yam tech manual, lakercr's rebuild instruction and so on. Did a bunch of searching too. I am pretty comfortable at this point but I will not be afraid to stop and ask questions as I know I don't know everything. Unfortunately I just found out I will not have my final gasket for the mag side until monday so I will be taking it slowly.
Jonny Rocket said:
How is everything working now?
Jonny Rocket
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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lakercr said:
No problems with the valves or head gaskets. Still having some small issues w/jetting. I will PM you the details. Maybe you can give me some advise.
J.
Bumping this thread so someone can download the .xls...
A Quick note to all as well, Make sure you put the shim in the seat first, Then put the cap on, DO NOT, let the shim ride in the oil in the cap and install that way.
I made this stupid mistake and had to tear the cams out to fix this issue. I was lucky nothing happened or hurt other then my pride.
I made this stupid mistake and had to tear the cams out to fix this issue. I was lucky nothing happened or hurt other then my pride.
aja636 said:
That's what you did!!?? Bad dog AJ, Baaaad dog.
If anyone is unsure on what this should/shouldn't look like, it is covered in my engine build post at the top of the forum.
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