RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Just installed my filter kit yesterday. I went for a 200 mile ride today to give them a test.
The sound is awesome...make the sled much more fun to ride.
The throddle response is great as well.
The temp here in Southern Ontario today is about the freezing mark.
When I press the throddle between 3 quarters an full throdle the motor has a different pitch and pulls only slightly harder...the rest of the range of throddle is amazing.
I think that the main jet controls the 3 quarter to full throdle fuel flow...right?
To me, the motor seems rich past the 3/4 throdle mark....I have no basis for saying this, other than sound and seat of the pants feel.
Does anyone have EGT's on their sled?
Has anyone tried smaller jets?
I just wonder if a jet size jump of this magnitude is neccessary.
From 135 mains to 165 mains is 12 full jet sizes...correct?
Food for thought.
Freddie....great job!! Worth the $$$$ Great pull!!!
Interested in hearing your reply on this...your answers are always good.
By the way...I ran a 3/4 inch hose from the black plastic crankcase vent area as high up as I could....close to the steering shaft.
The little filter did not emit any oil from this location.
I am running silver springs...with the fuel screws 2.5 turns from seated...and I am also using the snow filters.
No midrange burble.
I beleive that we are just below 2000 above sea level.
I am getting the carbs sync. this week.
Update...My neck is sore this morning!!!
The sound is awesome...make the sled much more fun to ride.
The throddle response is great as well.
The temp here in Southern Ontario today is about the freezing mark.
When I press the throddle between 3 quarters an full throdle the motor has a different pitch and pulls only slightly harder...the rest of the range of throddle is amazing.
I think that the main jet controls the 3 quarter to full throdle fuel flow...right?
To me, the motor seems rich past the 3/4 throdle mark....I have no basis for saying this, other than sound and seat of the pants feel.
Does anyone have EGT's on their sled?
Has anyone tried smaller jets?
I just wonder if a jet size jump of this magnitude is neccessary.
From 135 mains to 165 mains is 12 full jet sizes...correct?
Food for thought.
Freddie....great job!! Worth the $$$$ Great pull!!!
Interested in hearing your reply on this...your answers are always good.
By the way...I ran a 3/4 inch hose from the black plastic crankcase vent area as high up as I could....close to the steering shaft.
The little filter did not emit any oil from this location.
I am running silver springs...with the fuel screws 2.5 turns from seated...and I am also using the snow filters.
No midrange burble.
I beleive that we are just below 2000 above sea level.
I am getting the carbs sync. this week.
Update...My neck is sore this morning!!!
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
I have only a couple of folks running jets leaner than the 165's but before I comment on that, I would prefer you get the carburetors synchronized and then give it another ride.
Freddie
Freddie
RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Just about to get the carbs syncronized and go for a ride.
I will post results.
I will post results.
RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Today's progress:
Syncronized the carbs....actually they were not too far out.
I was going to shim my secondary to raise the belt height to specs and found out that the floating secondary was not floating anymore.
I removed the secondary to have a look at the jackshaft bearing.
The split colar was begining to come away from the bearing towards the secondary. It was wearing away at the shim!
Nice that the three dealers in my area did not have the parts in stock.
I put it back together for now with a new shim.
I put a new belt on the sled.
The temperature is -5 degrees C.
Results:
Wow:
One of those things fixed my concerns.
What a blast to ride. Totally new sled.
When I hit the throdle the tack jumps to 9900 rpm with stock clutching!
Before, it would jump to 9400 rpm.
This weekend I will get the sled on the radar gun....I will post my top speeds in 2000 ft.
Thanks Freddie......great mod!!!
Syncronized the carbs....actually they were not too far out.
I was going to shim my secondary to raise the belt height to specs and found out that the floating secondary was not floating anymore.
I removed the secondary to have a look at the jackshaft bearing.
The split colar was begining to come away from the bearing towards the secondary. It was wearing away at the shim!
Nice that the three dealers in my area did not have the parts in stock.
I put it back together for now with a new shim.
I put a new belt on the sled.
The temperature is -5 degrees C.
Results:
Wow:
One of those things fixed my concerns.
What a blast to ride. Totally new sled.
When I hit the throdle the tack jumps to 9900 rpm with stock clutching!
Before, it would jump to 9400 rpm.
This weekend I will get the sled on the radar gun....I will post my top speeds in 2000 ft.
Thanks Freddie......great mod!!!
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
bearing
your bearing and shim are in the wrong way. the same thing happened to me and a few others here the manual shows this to be the wrong the sleve should go from the inside to outside.and ive looked a a few other sleds that are not haveing this problem and thats the way that theres were installed as well. i have had these parts on order for some time now and have been told not to expect them till some time in late april :roll:
your bearing and shim are in the wrong way. the same thing happened to me and a few others here the manual shows this to be the wrong the sleve should go from the inside to outside.and ive looked a a few other sleds that are not haveing this problem and thats the way that theres were installed as well. i have had these parts on order for some time now and have been told not to expect them till some time in late april :roll:
RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks for the info.
Do you have the part numbers for the colar, bearing, and shim?
My dealers around here are lost!
They will be calling me back today.
I bet they will not be able to find the part numbers.
Do you have the part numbers for the colar, bearing, and shim?
My dealers around here are lost!
They will be calling me back today.
I bet they will not be able to find the part numbers.
SUPERTUNER
TY 4 Stroke Master
Re: bearing
A lot of good April delivery will do! If you want to send me the parts, I will copy them and make them for you. This is not to say that it will be the cheap way out but it beats the heck out of waiting.
Freddie
black john said:your bearing and shim are in the wrong way. the same thing happened to me and a few others here the manual shows this to be the wrong the sleve should go from the inside to outside.and ive looked a a few other sleds that are not haveing this problem and thats the way that theres were installed as well. i have had these parts on order for some time now and have been told not to expect them till some time in late april :roll:
A lot of good April delivery will do! If you want to send me the parts, I will copy them and make them for you. This is not to say that it will be the cheap way out but it beats the heck out of waiting.
Freddie
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
jack shaft
the part numbers i have listet in a before post. but here goes bearing #93306-20650-00 nut#8fa-17642-00-00 coller#8fa-17645-10-00 washer#90209-25012-00 hope this helps. fredie i would like to have a bushing made to go inside of a 6206 std bearing with ether a nut to hold it to gether or i can drill and tap it to take set screws or it can be made as two sleves one with male therads and other half with female theads. that way we can use std readly avlable bearing 10-12 dollers not 52-55 dollers less the coller. 25 mm bore with 29.89 out side diameter i think i will check the bearing diameter and pm you thanks. john 8)
the part numbers i have listet in a before post. but here goes bearing #93306-20650-00 nut#8fa-17642-00-00 coller#8fa-17645-10-00 washer#90209-25012-00 hope this helps. fredie i would like to have a bushing made to go inside of a 6206 std bearing with ether a nut to hold it to gether or i can drill and tap it to take set screws or it can be made as two sleves one with male therads and other half with female theads. that way we can use std readly avlable bearing 10-12 dollers not 52-55 dollers less the coller. 25 mm bore with 29.89 out side diameter i think i will check the bearing diameter and pm you thanks. john 8)
yamahauler
Newbie
What about the throttle position from 3/4 to full I am experiencing the same situation with my filters. I am going to play around with them this week, put needle back to stock position, I had raised it and sync the carbs.
RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Results:
Works awesome:
Had a blast on the lakes in Muskoka area.
I beat everyone that I raced....f7's, ZR900's, SRX's, REV's etc.
Pulls really hard from slow speeds so you cat jump 4 sleds or more on some sleds.
I could reel in F7's and 900's with ease.. (they came from no where full throdle)
What a blast.
I went to the radar track....top speed was doen a little....but so were everyone else's.
Everone seemed to be down at least 3 mph from last time there...XC700, REV 800, Viper.
I did many wide open runs and it does seem to use some oil now.
I am going to do the "evac" thing next and see if that works.
Anyone thinking about buying one of these kits...but are hesitant....
JUST DO IT !!!!
Great performance for the money!
No need to worry on the lake!!
Thanks Freddie.
I just need to get 1 more sled length to beat my buddies BONDI modded REV!! The only sled I have trouble with. He used to beat me by about 6 sleds. Stock REVS are NO PROBLEM!
Any ideas?
Works awesome:
Had a blast on the lakes in Muskoka area.
I beat everyone that I raced....f7's, ZR900's, SRX's, REV's etc.
Pulls really hard from slow speeds so you cat jump 4 sleds or more on some sleds.
I could reel in F7's and 900's with ease.. (they came from no where full throdle)
What a blast.
I went to the radar track....top speed was doen a little....but so were everyone else's.
Everone seemed to be down at least 3 mph from last time there...XC700, REV 800, Viper.
I did many wide open runs and it does seem to use some oil now.
I am going to do the "evac" thing next and see if that works.
Anyone thinking about buying one of these kits...but are hesitant....
JUST DO IT !!!!
Great performance for the money!
No need to worry on the lake!!
Thanks Freddie.
I just need to get 1 more sled length to beat my buddies BONDI modded REV!! The only sled I have trouble with. He used to beat me by about 6 sleds. Stock REVS are NO PROBLEM!
Any ideas?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
RX1 MEIRDA - You mentioned above that you run stock clutching. You could try Simons CPR stage II kit, it will get you to top speed faster (in a shorter distance). Contact Matt at The Speedshop or online at http://www.thespeedshop1.com - he will set you up with a kit that works. The evac mod would help too. Great results on the lake, keep on racing.
RTX Meirda
TY 4 Stroke Master
Can I do something with the Heelclicker kit that I purchased last year?
I do not want to screw up a weekend of riding since things are mellting fast!
I do not want to screw up a weekend of riding since things are mellting fast!
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RobX-1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 2,250
- Location
- Coldwater, OH
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 50th Apex XT-X, 08 40th Apex LTX GT, 08 40th Nytro RTX, & 03 RX-1
RX-1 Meirda, I am using the HC kit with the ECP filter with good results. Unfortunatley, I had the HC kit on before the ECP kit so I don't have a comparison between the two setups. I also have 9818 1.25" track with 144 1.325" studs down the center which may cause some variance in the setup between yours and my sled. You can also use the stock primary spring (w/shims but am told you do not need them) with the HC kit if you wanted a lower engagement. I just installed the Heel-X secondary kit that I too purchased last year when the HC kits were the kits to have. Never got around to installing the HX or the HC kit for that matter due to my stock track being replaced under warranty and me not wanting to stud it (we waited until end of season to replace track). Decided to hold off on the clutch kit install until track was replaced and in the mean time, HH became the kit to have. I'll probably continue to use this kit although I would love to try Matt's kit out. Even if the two kits were to produce the same results the difference between Matt's and SuperTorqer would be customer service. From what I have read, Matt makes himself very available whereas the same can not be said about Randy (good luck in trying to contact him). Most of what I have done has been done on my own in trial and error and it would of been nice to contact somebody like Matt to get some support. Case in point, he has changed his setup to take into account the ECP kit but I don't see Randy coming out with any changes or providing assistance like that. I can't see myself throwing away $500 on one kit and spend the same on another even if the one is that much better. There are other things on my wish list so I have to keep telling myself that I have a clutch kit so deal with it. :?
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