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New Heated Visor Plug on 2010 Apex

The reason why I was looking for an RCA pug is because I currenty use Yamaha adapter and it always pops out while riding, I like the idea of a separate RCA plug but Im notting paying 70 bucks from Yamaha when ski-doo sells the same one for 30.
 

If you unplug the cord from your helmet and leave it pluged in on the sled the male center pin of the RCA jack can easily short out if it touches any metal part of your sled. For this reason an inline fuse is a really good idea.
 
I use the same as Shivesy and have absolutely no problems. I got mine from denniskirk.com but paid about $20, as I couldn't find any on ebay at the time. My cords are for HJC brand, but work with any heated shield that use the rca style connector. My cord is run up through the handlebar riser and hangs out about 4" from underneath the crash pad on the handlebars. The yammy stock connector will jolt your cable back and forth when you turn the handlebars....stupid. I mounted my last plug on the top of the sled below the gauge pod on my firecat.

If you wire it to the center of the handlebars like I did, it won't jerk the connection all over when you turn, it will just rotate a bit. The 4" that mine sticks out doesn't really let it hang low enough to short on anything, including the riser itself. Works pefectly and I didn't adjust the length of the cable a bit and the ring terminals fit perfectly with the battery terminals. Just screw the battery terminals down on top of the heated shield ring terminals.

No regrets and I still have a free cigarette lighter auxillary plug with no current draw on it.

P.S. Works perfectly with my 130/90 watt headlight bulbs as well.

P.P.S. The plug that is mounted to my sled/battery is the female end. I have another cord that is male on both ends and plugs into my helmet and then into the sled female end by the handlebar riser. That cord came with my heated shield. The aftermarket wiring kit also comes with a similar coiled cord. Again, no worry about shorting anything this way.
 
If you unplug the cord at the shield while it is still pluged into the sled the center male pin can and will short out if it is allowed to touch any bare metal on your sled.

Of course if you unplug at the sled then you will not have to worry about this. In any case it is always a good idea to fuse anything that is connected to the battery just to be safe.
 
Thread from the dead!
The ring terminal cord I got with my kit is too short to get to the battery.
There's 2 wiring connecters near the main splice, the big one in the harness almost under the driver's side headlight. Not connected to anything.
I don't have a manual yet, or a wiring diagram...
Anyone ever tap one of those connecters for (hopefully fused) power?
 
Another way to wire the HJC cords is to tap into the power outlet/cigarette lighter from underneath. Then replace the 3amp with a 5 amp fuse in the fuse box for the outlet. But everytime you shut off the motor the shield shuts down. I wire my directly to the battery so when shut down it keeps the shield working as well.
 
I have this from DG Electronics:
Dual12vRCA.jpg


They also made a version with a USB port and RCA adapter for heated shields.

Here is a link to their web site. I saw them at the Syracuse sled show.
http://www.dg-electronics.com/
 
I have this from DG Electronics:
Dual12vRCA.jpg


They also made a version with a USB port and RCA adapter for heated shields.

Here is a link to their web site. I saw them at the Syracuse sled show.
http://www.dg-electronics.com/
Those work fine. I have one, but wanted to have the cig port free to charge a phone or gps. I wired my shield plug and cig plug together to battery. Yamaha could have at least wired the cig plug to the key on. Having to have the motor running is ridiculous imo.
 
Rocks toyz smart supply sounds like the ticket. I have one on both my sleds and all my brothers have them on theirs.
 


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