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New Heavy Duty/High performance clutching for My Sidewinder this season

My question is how does the roller weight/ bolt set up differ than bolts/ washers in the arm. I am in the process of moving a few grams from the arms to the roller bolts to see what happens.
I also had my first issue with the TAPP. While thawing out my sled after riding Saturday I noticed a bolt head in the pan. It seems I broke a roller bolt. Thankfully the remains did not slide out and let the roller loose. That could have been ugly. I am going to replace all those bolts. They where in there for probably 3500-4000 miles.
 

Rich, the weight in the Arms is like heal weight while weight on the roller ie: bolt or washers acts like tip weight.
 
That's what I have read. I just haven't fooled with that adjustment enough to see the effects. I am going to move some weight out there to see if I can get rid of a bit of an overflash down low.
 
We ran 2 sleds over the weekend Both with empty TAPP +1 rollers one on 270ss PM tune 35 stock helix with V2 B/O @ 90* and Mine on 240 Header Tune with 41/37 Dalton helix Black/Lime @ 9-3(don't ask). Both sleds ran warmer than expected clutch temps, but the 41/37 cooler consistently and backshift was very close with a slight edge on upshift to the 41/37. There was no apparent slippage on either set up although this was with XS825 on both.
 
I am trying a strait 37 right now. i havent been able to run it out yet....
 
KnappAttack said:
Yes it's possible. If moved out too far it would try to try to open up the secondary and slip the belt easier if the secondary was out indeed too far from the proper setting. Nothing better than mocking things up at full shift with the belt in the clutches with pressure against the belt and use a straight edge to align clutches.

You can verify the proper settings by allowing the secondary to float in while watching the gap increase between the washer and secondary clutch shaft, the gap will increase as it moves inward as you rev the machine to full shift out. This is hard to do if you use a stock like shim system for deflection adjustment.

More secondary pressure is needed IMO to run decent MPH. I have experienced less speed due to slippage than I have by pinching too much when the power is being made properly at the engine. Slippage is killer to speed more so than over pinching. IMO you are not over pinching the belt using a B/O at 80 or 90 wrap on a 35 helix on 270 and up when properly aligned.



Using a setup like this you can align the clutches perfectly. I used a ver light spring in the secondary to keep pressure on the belt and brought the drive clutch to full shift with no spring. Takes time and so effort to set it up but you will have perfectly aligned clutches ever time. No matter what clutches you are combining. Use a caliper to measure from the belt to the straight edge moving the secondary in or out to figure out the spacing need to line up just perfectly while at full shift and straight edge and belt on on the same plane. Can't go wrong if you do it perfectly.

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Fantastic,can you please make a tread how you do this exactly step by step with pictures please? Dont understand how you do it with this picture. What is a calipter? and do just lay the straight edge into the outside of the primary when its fully outshiftet? Would love to see a fully explained way to do this. Its so important that we all can see how we can do this.
 
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