new to the rx1

[yamatyb9]

Just picked up my first rx1, used to my 2 stroke vipers but the better half wanted e/s and a 4 stroke so had to make her happy! Got an '03 with 2700 miles for 1900, thought that was a great deal?? Only thing it needs is A new spindle/right knuckle on the ski. Wondering what maintenance I should check or do, obviously some different things than the 2 strokes.. Just checking what major things to keep up on? Thanks!

 

[blkhwkbob]

Funny, I'm in the middle of replacing a right knuckle right now. Advice: while you are ordering parts, take a good look at the bolts holding the control arms to the knuckle. Mine were bent in a S shape!

Other: exhaust donuts, add an Apex seat and riser for comfort, check the jackshaft bearings-try to see if the clutch side has been updated with the locking ring, clean carbs and keep them clean.

 

[yamatyb9]

Thanks, appreciate the feedback!!

 

[maim]

check if some one has done some clutching as the rx's needed some from the factory

 

[RxThunder]

Funny, I'm in the middle of replacing a right knuckle right now. Advice: while you are ordering parts, take a good look at the bolts holding the control arms to the knuckle. Mine were bent in a S shape!

Other: exhaust donuts, add an Apex seat and riser for comfort, check the jackshaft bearings-try to see if the clutch side has been updated with the locking ring, clean carbs and keep them clean.

I agree on the Apex seat and riser big time! Just curious as to what you're refering to with the clutch side bearing having a locking ring? Also I have 4500 miles on my 03, doing exhaust donuts this year and the only bearing I have never checked or replaced is the one behind the primary, any tricks or tips?

 

[dmaxx]

Funny, I'm in the middle of replacing a right knuckle right now. Advice: while you are ordering parts, take a good look at the bolts holding the control arms to the knuckle. Mine were bent in a S shape!

Other: exhaust donuts, add an Apex seat and riser for comfort, check the jackshaft bearings-try to see if the clutch side has been updated with the locking ring, clean carbs and keep them clean.

I agree on the Apex seat and riser big time! Just curious as to what you're refering to with the clutch side bearing having a locking ring? Also I have 4500 miles on my 03, doing exhaust donuts this year and the only bearing I have never checked or replaced is the one behind the primary, any tricks or tips?

This is a well discussed topic here, many posts available. The jackshaft bearing behind the secondary. RX1 was updated with a locking collar and sleeve in 04 as the 03's had a tendency to slip out on the original tapered collar. I know this first hand, happened to me. You can inspect behind the bulkhead and get a visual on the locking collar. Just order the updated parts kit, the bearings are the same.

 

[blkhwkbob]

dmaxx has it covered.

As far as the exhaust donuts--the front two exhaust screws under the seat---start spraying them with PBblaster like yesterday. If the heads strip out it is a MAJOR pita to get the rest of the job done. In fact, I would hit those with a hammer-type impact tool right off the bat (after pbblaster).

 

[blkhwkbob]

Parts 17 and 18.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/files/thumbs/t_washers_511.jpg

 

[Bigfish]

dmaxx has it covered.

As far as the exhaust donuts--the front two exhaust screws under the seat---start spraying them with PBblaster like yesterday. If the heads strip out it is a MAJOR pita to get the rest of the job done. In fact, I would hit those with a hammer-type impact tool right off the bat (after pbblaster).

and replace them with hex-head bolts, so you don't have to go through it all again next time!

 

[Sasquatch]

dmaxx has it covered.

As far as the exhaust donuts--the front two exhaust screws under the seat---start spraying them with PBblaster like yesterday. If the heads strip out it is a MAJOR pita to get the rest of the job done. In fact, I would hit those with a hammer-type impact tool right off the bat (after pbblaster).

Every one talks about these being a problem but I just put the right allen head in the bolt and with a small effort they turned with no problem and no and no anti penetrating oil of any kind. I changed he donuts one time then the titainium pipes later on with no problems. After 18,000 miles I could take them out with no problem right now.

 

[Sasquatch]

dmaxx has it covered.

As far as the exhaust donuts--the front two exhaust screws under the seat---start spraying them with PBblaster like yesterday. If the heads strip out it is a MAJOR pita to get the rest of the job done. In fact, I would hit those with a hammer-type impact tool right off the bat (after pbblaster).

and replace them with hex-head bolts, so you don't have to go through it all again next time!

I like allen head bolts better then hex head. I'm changing all the bolts on the motor of my 68 to allen head except the head bolts and internal bolts. I think like the phillips screws that everyone has so much trouble with it all boils down to using the right size tool. If you use standard size allen wrenches in a metric allen head bolt its going to strip. Same as using a #2 phillips screwdriver in a #3 phillips screw your going to have problems been there done that.

Sometimes a little heat is your friend on stubbron bolts.

 

[blkhwkbob]

dmaxx has it covered.

As far as the exhaust donuts--the front two exhaust screws under the seat---start spraying them with PBblaster like yesterday. If the heads strip out it is a MAJOR pita to get the rest of the job done. In fact, I would hit those with a hammer-type impact tool right off the bat (after pbblaster).

Every one talks about these being a problem but I just put the right allen head in the bolt and with a small effort they turned with no problem and no and no anti penetrating oil of any kind. I changed he donuts one time then the titainium pipes later on with no problems. After 18,000 miles I could take them out with no problem right now.

I actually didn't have any allen head tools at all so I tried getting them out with a potato. It works so well getting out broken light bulbs I figured it would work here, too.

 

[Bigfish]

dmaxx has it covered.

As far as the exhaust donuts--the front two exhaust screws under the seat---start spraying them with PBblaster like yesterday. If the heads strip out it is a MAJOR pita to get the rest of the job done. In fact, I would hit those with a hammer-type impact tool right off the bat (after pbblaster).

and replace them with hex-head bolts, so you don't have to go through it all again next time!

I like allen head bolts better then hex head. I'm changing all the bolts on the motor of my 68 to allen head except the head bolts and internal bolts. I think like the phillips screws that everyone has so much trouble with it all boils down to using the right size tool. If you use standard size allen wrenches in a metric allen head bolt its going to strip. Same as using a #2 phillips screwdriver in a #3 phillips screw your going to have problems been there done that.

Sometimes a little heat is your friend on stubbron bolts.

Mine were a total PITA. Used heat, penetrating oil, etc. Ended up drilling them out and tapping new threads a size larger, then replacing with SS hex head bolts. The only ones I found that were harder to get out were the exhaust clamps that join the muffler assembly to the exhaust pipes. I think mine were welded in!!!