shaddow44 said:After looking at both designs, I actually think the Moflow design looks more beneficial. While they will both allow heat to escape...the placement of the Moflow being further to the rear should allow the air to move through the rad first and then out, while the Mountaintech allows the air to come out sooner...which IMO isn't as effective while at trail speed....the air would travel over the rad vs travelling through it....I think this is the point fishstick was trying to make....I think both designs are beneficial in that they allow heat to escape at low speed or while stopped...JMO
Almost, what I'm saying is adding a vent to the "back" of the rad is pointless unless you add more vents to the front of it. The Nytro needs more air movement over the rad. The Nytro needs to be cooled better so it doesn't over heat, not cooled down once it has over heated.
Sevey
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The problem I discovered, is unless you are running at decent speed there is not enough good airflow forced into the rad. The angle it lays at only compounds the problem. The rad is also mounted on to of a cooking hot engine which doesn't help.
Make no mistake, when the fan comes on the air is sucked down through it and discharged on the left side, there is no hot air rising through the vent at that point, that fan can move a fair bit of air volume and draws air down through whatever hole it can.
At idle the tunnel heat exchanger starts cooking and the poor rad, cause it can't get good air then gets too hot and the heat light comes on.
For fun last spring on a 5 degree day, wet sloppy snow, I ran the sled and then let it idle until the light came on, then ran it until it went out. That fan was pouring hair dryer hot air out the side. Then I took the cowl off and did the same thing, and it took forever for the light to come on. That was the difference of having access to lots of good air vs baking inside the cowl.
I am hoping this vent can assist in this area.
Ms
Make no mistake, when the fan comes on the air is sucked down through it and discharged on the left side, there is no hot air rising through the vent at that point, that fan can move a fair bit of air volume and draws air down through whatever hole it can.
At idle the tunnel heat exchanger starts cooking and the poor rad, cause it can't get good air then gets too hot and the heat light comes on.
For fun last spring on a 5 degree day, wet sloppy snow, I ran the sled and then let it idle until the light came on, then ran it until it went out. That fan was pouring hair dryer hot air out the side. Then I took the cowl off and did the same thing, and it took forever for the light to come on. That was the difference of having access to lots of good air vs baking inside the cowl.
I am hoping this vent can assist in this area.
Ms


birkebeiner
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I have the Mountaintech IP vent with the speedo relocate, mounted it at the end of last season. Here are my observations:
First off, I have never experienced the red light to come on, but just wanted to be "just in case - up front". Also, I don't have any added vents in the hood or other places. I am, however, planning to drill some small holes in the front panel under the hood.
At speed, it doesn't seem that hot air is coming out of the IP vent, at least I couldn't feel it with my hand. It actually feels like cold air is being drawn in via the IP vent, probably caused by the turbulence created by the windscreen?? In any case, that should add/help with better cooling. However, as soon as you stop, hot air is exiting the IP vent and the sled looks like a steam train
Especially if you have played around in the pow.
Interestingly, and I don't know whether this is a coincident or not, but the day after I installed the IP vent my starter relay stopped working, and had to pour hot water over it to start the sled. Once the sled is started up in the morning it runs and starts fine rest of the day. I have never had issues with the starter relay before I got the IP vent.
I'm thinking of just remove the rad completely and install the MPI under tunnel coolers instead. But MPI doesn't have a web shop so not sure how to order it
Also, need to figure out whether the MPI coolers works with the SDR under tunnel exhaust 
First off, I have never experienced the red light to come on, but just wanted to be "just in case - up front". Also, I don't have any added vents in the hood or other places. I am, however, planning to drill some small holes in the front panel under the hood.
At speed, it doesn't seem that hot air is coming out of the IP vent, at least I couldn't feel it with my hand. It actually feels like cold air is being drawn in via the IP vent, probably caused by the turbulence created by the windscreen?? In any case, that should add/help with better cooling. However, as soon as you stop, hot air is exiting the IP vent and the sled looks like a steam train

Interestingly, and I don't know whether this is a coincident or not, but the day after I installed the IP vent my starter relay stopped working, and had to pour hot water over it to start the sled. Once the sled is started up in the morning it runs and starts fine rest of the day. I have never had issues with the starter relay before I got the IP vent.
I'm thinking of just remove the rad completely and install the MPI under tunnel coolers instead. But MPI doesn't have a web shop so not sure how to order it




sheetwright
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This is why I went with the Vanamberg cooler instead. Couldn't wait for mpi to finish their shorty rendition. Seamed to work a ton better. I'm running a front and two side vents, but not a top vent yet. I religiously watch the water temp gauge Ulmer put on for me while in town or at slow speeds in town ditches etc. it's the only area I've gotten close to hot, but that was on 30+ degree days while following eight sleds bumper to bumper through town to get to the real trails or lake.


birkebeiner
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MPI dosent even have an email on their web site, how is that possible in 2013??
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