Nytro track extension

[jbs5200]

I'm looking to extend my 2013 nytro RTX to a 144". What's the best way to go? I have been looking at the kit from Hartman performance.

 

[grizztracks]

Tracks USA sells tipped rail extensions which makes a 144" feel a little shorter. Hartman's 121 to 141" with skid relocate should also be a nice upgrade with the softer approach angle. I did the 136" with a relocate and it's way better stretched than it was as 121" RTX.

 

[Farmer 73]

Tracks USA sells tipped rail extensions which makes a 144" feel a little shorter. Hartman's 121 to 141" with skid relocate should also be a nice upgrade with the softer approach angle. I did the 136" with a relocate and it's way better stretched than it was as 121" RTX.

Grizz, when you did your original skid relocate, sliding your skid back 4 inches, did you also tighten the front spring of the skid, or did you leave the preload alone?

 

[jbs5200]

Thanks! I was looking at Tracks USA today. I think I am going to go with the tipped rail extensions.

 

[grizztracks]

Grizz, when you did your original skid relocate, sliding your skid back 4 inches, did you also tighten the front spring of the skid, or did you leave the preload alone?

I installed a dual rate spring from Hygear which worked great until the OEM shock exploded. After the shock failure I installed a custom valved Ohlins. I'm not sure how much spring load if any was added but what I normally do is run it loose then add spring pressure until I find what works best for me. What I look for is just enough center shock preload to reduce heavy steering but not make it so loose it pushes in the corners. I'm also looking for a little ski lift when one the throttle to lift the skis over junk on the trail.

 

[Farmer 73]

I installed a dual rate spring from Hygear which worked great until the OEM shock exploded. After the shock failure I installed a custom valved Ohlins. I'm not sure how much spring load if any was added but what I normally do is run it loose then add spring pressure until I find what works best for me. What I look for is just enough center shock preload to reduce heavy steering but not make it so loose it pushes in the corners. I'm also looking for a little ski lift when one the throttle to lift the skis over junk on the trail.

The reason why I ask, I have the Star relocate so an RTX SE 128! I hate excessive hyfax ware. This past weekend was tough conditions frozen and minimal snow dust for cooling and lubrication. In fact it was the first time the temp light has come on while riding this sled the three years I've owned it. My hyfax has been wairing in the usual spot in front of the first idler wheels. I had the small saver wheels in the curves, lost one this weekend! I also am running DuPont slides and Excell oversize wheel kit. When moving the suspension back I thought I would have less ware in that spot because of the less approach angle the the track is at. This weekends conditions really put the setup to the test. The Hyfax is shot at the curves, however not into the rail yet. What is also interesting is that you think the ski carbides would be gone because of some the pavement and plowed logging roads we encountered, their not in fact they look like they haven't been on there for the 1400 miles that we put on this year! Here is my thought. When Robert from Star had me get the stronger skidoo spring to put on the front skid shock, with a setting to crank it too, could we possibly have it tighter than it should be? I do have to be on the front of the sled when running aggressively through the curve's! Do you think that the preload on that spring could be the cause of why the hyfax is waring like that?

 

[grizztracks]

I didn't go with that stiff spring because at the time Robert wasn't sure that was the correct approach to componsate the relocate. I went with the dual rate so it wouldn't be to stiff for normal riding but still would have the ability to prevent bottoming on the rough trails. Like I said, it worked really well. I also run the taller wheels and added a few extras toward the rear but never installed those small wheels at the bend because they don't last. I run the cheaper hyfax and havn't had wear issues with either shock/spring setup that I've ran. Maybe try going back to the stock spring. What position do run the limit strap in? I run mine pulled in one hole.

 

[Farmer 73]

So pulled one in from stock on the strap? I haven't touched the strap yet. Also taking some preload out of the skidoo spring should help to if I don't put the stock one back in I would think. Do you think if I add the Mountain tech, 43+2 front end, will effect our thoughts about the rear suspension adjustments were talking about here? Sorry about all the questions!

 

[grizztracks]

Pulling in the strap one hole shorter from stock will take some pressure off and loosing the ski doo spring should help also. I never ran that spring so I'm not sure what the best setting would be but starting soft and slowly adding preload is the way I'd go about adjust it. You may find it's just not the correct spring for the relocate and if that's the case I'd look into a dual rate spring.

I did testing for the Mountaintech's 43+2 a-arms and found that the rear suspension needed adjustments to balance the front end changes. If you are considering those a-arms I'd wait on making any adjustments until the Mountaintech arms are installed. No use fighting it twice.

 

[Farmer 73]

Did you like the gains you got with the Mountain Tech Arms? They seem like a good deal for the money if you gain anything at all over the stock arms.

 

[grizztracks]

Overall the gains were good. Nice a-arms for guys that like to customize there front geometry to their riding style. The added adjustment along with the spacer on top of the spindles improved bump steer in the stutters and it's straight line performance. Handling both on and off trail was good although it did feel a little lazy in the tight S turns with the forward stance. I also experienced additional ski lift and the front was easy to roll up to one side much like a mountain guy might want for sidehilling. All it would take is a little lean to one side along with some throttle the sled would easily lift one ski and I could ride it for long distances. The forward stance definitely made the front feel narrow and it was fun to play with but I did make a few adjustments to reduce some of that.