Ohlins spring 5.5

[snowbeast]

Hi must be someone who has changed the rear spring on your electric shock to a heavier spring,i have talked to mike carver about the revalve and spring change,he suggests to not go overboard w/spring change,but my weight loaded for bear,is around 270# and the stock 4.9 preloaded up tp max is just not enough,although i am sending it out to him to do a revalve magic job on it. So how does your gt ride now thru the little junk w/the 5.5 spring,and does it stop the bottoming out on bigger junk? Also if someone has one of the 5.5 springs used they want to get rid of i am interested in buying it,or if anyone wants the big boy spring that i had on my 06 attak i have that one to get rid of. pete

 

[riverrat]

I may have a 5.5 spring. I changed to a Hy Gear set up with varible spring, so I will check.

Randy........

 

[Yummy]

Do you have the electronic GT model or the cable model.

BEWARE: It NOT the same spring!!!

 

[snowbeast]

I may have a 5.5 spring. I changed to a Hy Gear set up with varible spring, so I will check.

Randy........

Thanks please let me know.

 

[snowbeast]

Do you have the electronic GT model or the cable model.

BEWARE: It NOT the same spring!!!

Electronic shock.

 

[welterracer]

I have the 5.5 in my sled.. It must be revalaved for that spring and your weight..

It rides stiffer than it did when new, but it rides great and almost never bottoms out... When the trails get really rough i stand mostly anyways..

 

[Blue Dave]

Mike Carver warned me also about not going to the stiffer spring unless you really need it. At 200# actual body weight plus gear I was able to set my pre-load for the proper sit-in and therefore I did not need a stiffer spring.

However at 270# geared up you may need a stiffer spring. The true test is if you can set your preload for a 40-45 mm sit-in (with all your gear on) without shortening the unloaded spring to less than 10.3 inches. If you can not then you will need a stiffer spring.

The real magic is in Mike's re-valve. I used to bottom out all the time with my EC set to full hard and the back end would often kick me out of the seat requiring frequent standing.

Now with the Carver re-valve and stock spring I can run the EC on full soft most of the time and rarely have to go past 50% on the EC to completely eliminate bottoming out on even the nasty bumps sitting down.

The ride now with the Carver re-valve is much improved at all speeds and conditions. This is how the sled should have been delivered by Yamaha! It was the best 100 bucks that I have ever spent on my sled. However shame on Yamaha for making us fix their mistakes!

 

[snowbeast]

Mike Carver warned me also about not going to the stiffer spring unless you really need it. At 200# actual body weight plus gear I was able to set my pre-load for the proper sit-in and therefore I did not need a stiffer spring.

However at 270# geared up you may need a stiffer spring. The true test is if you can set your preload for a 40-45 mm sit-in (with all your gear on) without shortening the unloaded spring to less than 10.3 inches. If you can not then you will need a stiffer spring.

The real magic is in Mike's re-valve. I used to bottom out all the time with my EC set to full hard and the back end would often kick me out of the seat requiring frequent standing.

Now with the Carver re-valve and stock spring I can run the EC on full soft most of the time and rarely have to go past 50% on the EC to completely eliminate bottoming out on even the nasty bumps sitting down.

The ride now with the Carver re-valve is much improved at all speeds and conditions. This is how the sled should have been delivered by Yamaha! It was the best 100 bucks that I have ever spent on my sled. However shame on Yamaha for making us fix their mistakes!

Ya i will send my rear shock out to mike in a couple weeks,so i can see the differance before we lose our snow for the year,but for the meantime i still think i need the larger spring,as i have it preloaded past the limits now,and it still sags past what it should for my weight.

 

[Blue Dave]

If you can not set the preload properly you are correct that you will need a stiffer spring. It seems like 250 # is about the limit for the stock spring.

Mike turned my shock around in less than a week but I live in Minnesota so the shipping was one day each way.

 

[Apex1958]

I am 270 LBS also I put the 7.1 spring on it and turned the rebond to 15 clicks in the B direction. Compersion dampening set at 2 bars under full compression and it rides and takes medium bumps like a cadillac. Perloud set in the middle and after 3000 miles this year I am taking out and sending it to Mike to rebuild and add more compression and rebound dampening. Also Mike told me to use the 6.5 untile I told him I like to ride fast and I want to be ready for that big bump LOL so I went to the 7.1 and love it.

 

[baggs66]

i have the 6.25 spring with pioneer perf. valveing to match, i set the spring a little softer at about 10 7/8 inches and am very happy. it was a little firm at 10 3/8 you still felt like you sat on top of the sled now it feels like you sit in it. also stopped most of the banging from control rod on stutters i am 265# a couple clicks on the rebound will soften it up good for the stutters or firm it up for the rollers.

 

[mork110]

I picked up a used 07 Apex GT and have not had it out for a ride so I am not sure what the suspension is like but I want to set it up for 125 lbs person the does not ride hard just cruise on trails the rear spring has the markings Ohlins 00696-08 / 48 lbs L 196 what does this mean and will it be the correct spring and I am going to have the shock revalved to the persons weight and ride

Please help

 

[Blue Dave]

Call Mike Carver at Carver Performance. Here is a link to his website.

http://www.carverperformance.com/

Mike will know what those numbers mean and he will be able to recommend what to do based on your weight and riding style.

 

[mork110]

ok thank you Blue Dave