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Plush Ride Without Bottoming (MONOSHOCK OWNERS)


About 210 lbs, but I do carry a lot of extra safety gear, wear a tekvest and a wear heavy cordura suit. A fair bit of of my riding is also done loaded up with Yamaha saddle bags and a Yamaha trunk bag.

I paid for everything except the shock revalve.

Bob at Johnson Welding in Ottawa did the welding. They do excellent work.
 
A friend of mine called them today about his Doo and some suspension upgrades. He said they were very informative.

Apparently they test up on Tug Hill (where I ride a lot) so they definately get plenty of bump filled terrain lol. Supposedly they are going to be at the Syracuse show.
 
Just thought I would ressurect this thread....

I installed the latest HyGear dual rate w/remote reservoir shock a few weeks ago and just got to test it last week.

I had installed a Big Boy Apex spring on my Attak last winter and found it to be good about 90% of the time, but the G bumps would jar my teeth out, due to the fallling rate design of the monoshock. All my riding is high speed groom trails (Que).

I now have 350 miles on the new suspension setup and I see great promise. I talked to Russ at HyGear today for quite some time and I think I am close to dialing this in.

The dual rate spring and the adustability of the compression damping should solve my problems and it is much better now than it was last year.

Some details - I am 165 soaking wet, plus gear, plus luggage rack/backrest, plus luggage = about 210 lbs. I am currently on the softest setting of this dual rate spring and I think I can get all the adjustments in the shock and the front clicker.

Hope this helps....

GW

Just turned 4000 on this baby and I am loving it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I spoke to an empolyee of HYGEAR at the Big East Snowmobile Show in Syracuse NY. The guy was kinda weird when I asked if it stops the bottoming on the mono, he said "nothing will stop the bottoming but the new spring helps" like I said the guy was weird and acted defensive or insulted when i asked a simple and obvious question.
 
I bumped into a Guy with a Attak at the Grand Marais gas station who had a HYGEAR's set up. He was also set on soft and said what an improvement it was. He said it could still bottom but it wasn't the bone wrenching type of hit like the stock springs. He said he was still getting his feet wet getting it exactly where he wanted it but that it was better than stock. This guy had the HYGEAR's base front shock up-grade and the full-blown up-grade with remote resevior and hi/lo speed dampening on the Kayaba rear.
 
I just kind of skimmed this whole post. I have a Pioneer Performance revalved shock with a 5.5 spring.. (one up from stock). This thing flat out rocks. It bottomed out a couple of times during a 250kms ride but it was only because I was on too soft of setting on the compression however as long as I increase the compression when the trail gets choppy it flat out rocks. I couldn't believe the junk it sucked up on the weekend. I do need to play with the rebound setting some. The Hygear stuff looks nice.. buts its alot coin IMO. :Rockon:
 
I'm 165 in street clothes, and in my 350 miles so far this year on a gt, the only time I have bottomed the rear is when I leave it set at full soft. Typical choppy trails with medium bumps I can run in the middle without bottoming, and at full hard I couldn't bottom it even when trying to in big moguls.
 
I put 800 miles on my 2007 Attak, with spring in clip 2 cam 6, and would bottom very easy as well as get the donkey kick. My weight is 230 lbs, and I ride fairly normal I would say. I had the 6.5 spring installed clip 2 cam 3, and the ride is better all around. It will still bottom (much less) but the donkey kick is all but gone. I now have 1300 miles on and this was a great improvement in the sled.
 
Why so complicated? :ORC

It is the sudden "BAM" and jar of the sudden stop -of the shock stroke - that is annoying.

Why can't we just have a rubber bumper that absorbs energy at the final distance of travel buy compressing and "spreading it out ' over time. The force per unit time would go way down and the jar would be greatly minimized.

For the few times I bottom out out this would be enough for me and would cost what? < 5 bucks

Just a thought, from a very frustrated waiting for snow snowmobiler. :o|

Yamadoo
 
diff spring valve.

Hi Guys,
Let me tell you about my result of my dealing with Bruce at Pioneer.......

I went for my first ride of the year on Saturday with my OHLINS ELECTRIC shock that has been revalved and sprung with a 6.25 spring. I told bruce that I weigh 210 w/o gear and ride very hard and fast. I ride an apex GT 06'.

We were unable to set the proper preload before we rode because of lack of prep time so it was alittle soft still. The compression adjustments were awesome. very differnt from stock. even with the spring soft the comp set to full stiff would eliminate 95% of bottoming except from the bottom edge of rollers at speed. I'm fully confident that once the preload is set for me the sled will be a complete joy. Already the difference puts a smile on my face at speeds below 10 mph and above 110 mph. still feels controllable and plush.....hard to beleive w/ 6.25 spring, and yes I'm really only 210 w/o my gear. $$180.00 ish shipped and very happy :letsnow:

Larry
 
I never did get a chance to ride my GT with the stock setting. (bought sled useds) but with Bruce's revalve.. It rides awesome. You just need to keep your thumb on the compression setting when you see the trail getting rough.
 
yamadoo said:
Why so complicated? :ORC

It is the sudden "BAM" and jar of the sudden stop -of the shock stroke - that is annoying.

Why can't we just have a rubber bumper that absorbs energy at the final distance of travel buy compressing and "spreading it out ' over time. The force per unit time would go way down and the jar would be greatly minimized.

For the few times I bottom out out this would be enough for me and would cost what? < 5 bucks

Just a thought, from a very frustrated waiting for snow snowmobiler. :o|

Yamadoo
Click to expand...

That bumper you are referring to is called "progressive compression damping" and it's why I suspect that Bruce at Pionner re-valves the shocks in additon to changing the springs to match rider weight more correctly.

My Expert-X was crashing hard through rollers, and sharp edge bumps, with very anoying kick-back. To stop this I sent the shocks into Excell and Aaron re-valved the shocks - not add stiffer springs to it.

Here's another thought on this subject: Ever notice how much ice builds up in the mono-shock skid. After 145 miles, in these below-average snow conditions, I could hardly lift the rear-end of the sled to prop it up, and I also noticed it sat allot lower too. This would definitely contribute to bottoming as you just added close to 30#'s of ice to your suspension setup.

So my money is on a good re-valve in additon to a proper spring setup for my weight and style of riding - and that's why I would choose Bruce's setup over just changing to a double, or a stiffer spring.

jm2c's
 
I have to say I'd love to fix my 06 Apex GT but thinking of throughing the towel in.Last year I I picked up my snow checked sled all excited going from and SRX to new GT.I took a vacation for a week in camden Ny were my cabin in on trail 41 Fist day loved the sled no bottoming out awesome ride.Second day around 140 miles lost the ohlins shock in the rear skid.It blew all the oil out and had the bottoming out problem.On the third morning the shock had gotten water in it and the rear skid would not move so I loaded it up and road my wife 97 veture.
Well Yamaha put a new shock and spring #*$&@. in and I took it out for the first time last week and went up north again since they put a new shock in Same problem 2 days later of driving the sled was awesome till I lost the shock again.Sucks It happens when I go on vaction.
I love everthing about the sled but the rear suspention.If I buy a new sled tomarrow for next weekend I'm gonna miss the motor.

PM if you interested hehehehe
 
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