Ziggy
Newbie
I have 1750 mile on my RX-1 LE. I brought it to my dealer for the 500 mile oil & filter change. It cost me $81.00. This was early last winter. well I just pulled my sled out to put on the 12mm bar and longer links and thought that I would change the oil myself. WOW.
First of all had trouble with the side panel screws but got them off. Couldn't get the bottom panel off period. All screws welded shut. Stripped the crap out of the allen screws. Took half the sled apart to get to the oil filter. All bolts extremely tight and didn't look like they had been touched with a wrench. Did my DEALER really change the filter?????
The filter on the sled is the exact same one that I purchased to replace it. It's black with white lettering. MY QUESTION IS, does anyone know what the original filter looks like. Was the original the same as what the Yamaha dealers are selling to replace it?
AND how the heck do I get the bottom panel off now. HELP HELP
First of all had trouble with the side panel screws but got them off. Couldn't get the bottom panel off period. All screws welded shut. Stripped the crap out of the allen screws. Took half the sled apart to get to the oil filter. All bolts extremely tight and didn't look like they had been touched with a wrench. Did my DEALER really change the filter?????
The filter on the sled is the exact same one that I purchased to replace it. It's black with white lettering. MY QUESTION IS, does anyone know what the original filter looks like. Was the original the same as what the Yamaha dealers are selling to replace it?
AND how the heck do I get the bottom panel off now. HELP HELP
Bob Miller
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2003
- Messages
- 1,322
- Location
- New Milford CT
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- Present Sled: 2011 Yamaha Apex 128
Ziggy, I do all my own work on my sled because not all dealers are that reputable! I will personally use Mobil1 15W-50 oil! Its designed for High Revving engines and it pours down to -49. I've used this same oil for ten years in motorcycles and ATV's, and the ATV's are run in the extreme cold!
And you can reduce your oil changes to once a season and your engine will last longer.
As far as your stripped screws go, you can try using a standard allen wrench that might be a little bigger than the metric size that is in there and tap in with a hammer, while tapping turn slowly.
If this doesn't work Sears has a special tool for removing stripped screws.
GOOD LUCK
And you can reduce your oil changes to once a season and your engine will last longer.
As far as your stripped screws go, you can try using a standard allen wrench that might be a little bigger than the metric size that is in there and tap in with a hammer, while tapping turn slowly.
If this doesn't work Sears has a special tool for removing stripped screws.
GOOD LUCK
kmer
Expert
Ziggy,
The stock filter was black on mine and same as the one I buy from Yamaha. It's handy to have a 3/8" drive oil filter wrench - it goes on fairly tight - like 22f ft-lbs if memory serves. The wrench is about $8 and should be available from your dealer.
Your local autoparts store should have 'easy-outs' to remove the stripped allen screws. They are tapered steel bits with sharp edges that you drive into the stripped head and twist out. Use a drill bit to see how big the hole is in the stripped head. Buy an easy out that is suitable. An easy-out costs less than $5.
The stock filter was black on mine and same as the one I buy from Yamaha. It's handy to have a 3/8" drive oil filter wrench - it goes on fairly tight - like 22f ft-lbs if memory serves. The wrench is about $8 and should be available from your dealer.
Your local autoparts store should have 'easy-outs' to remove the stripped allen screws. They are tapered steel bits with sharp edges that you drive into the stripped head and twist out. Use a drill bit to see how big the hole is in the stripped head. Buy an easy out that is suitable. An easy-out costs less than $5.
RX1 Yooper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Ziggy,
The cover is a piece of junk. I think it is made out of fiberglass. If I were you, I would demo the cover, then you can get access to the sides of the screws. Grab the screws with vice grips, and unscrew them. Then put a stainless or aluminum cover on. You can get new metric bolts at a hardware.
I unscrewed mine, and the fiberglass came off with the screws, and left large holes. I had to use large washers to replace the cover. I thought it was some sort of fiber board.
The cover is a piece of junk. I think it is made out of fiberglass. If I were you, I would demo the cover, then you can get access to the sides of the screws. Grab the screws with vice grips, and unscrew them. Then put a stainless or aluminum cover on. You can get new metric bolts at a hardware.
I unscrewed mine, and the fiberglass came off with the screws, and left large holes. I had to use large washers to replace the cover. I thought it was some sort of fiber board.
kmer
Expert
Okay... :roll: if you manage to demolish the cover without damaging either the crankcase or oil drain plug :shock: ..... you could just leave it off altogether and put on the bellypan protector 8)
Sidewinder1
Newbie
Oil Change
Hey Ziggy,
Just a final word of caution while doing the oil change. Be careful of the fuel line when you put the battery back in. I inadvertently pinched mine with the battery cables putting the battery back in after the first oil change and after messing with the carbs etc. trying to figure out why I couldn't get any power until about 7,000 rpms, and a long trailer ride to the dealer, we figured it out. Doh!
Hey Ziggy,
Just a final word of caution while doing the oil change. Be careful of the fuel line when you put the battery back in. I inadvertently pinched mine with the battery cables putting the battery back in after the first oil change and after messing with the carbs etc. trying to figure out why I couldn't get any power until about 7,000 rpms, and a long trailer ride to the dealer, we figured it out. Doh!
Ziggy
Newbie
THANKS EVERYONE.
