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One hand warmer not working

WINDER1987

TY 4 Stroke Guru
Joined
Dec 30, 2009
Messages
867
Location
Upstate NY
Hey guys i have a 13 nytro xtx and my left hand warmer is not working. These are wired together right so if one isn't working niether should be?
Thanks
 

No I had one fail You may have to replace the element under the grip. From what I understand it's hard to test it.
 
Hey guys i have a 13 nytro xtx and my left hand warmer is not working. These are wired together right so if one isn't working niether should be?
Thanks
I go through one a season on that same side I have a 2011 The one I just put in I didnt even zip tie it in place and it seem to be holding up so far
 
Heater element has gone bad. I've replace 2 of them on my '11 Nytro XTX. Not too terrible to replace. New one is something around $50 from Yamaha dealer (but that was a few years ago now). Got to peel off rubber grip (there is a rivet that needs to be drilled out) and then scrape old element off bars (they are adhesive backed). Hardest part is tracing wiring harness through that gray plastic wire loom that snakes down handlebar post and then clips into sleds harness inside one of those round rubber boots located just behind headlight. Kind of a pain to get wire routed back in place but overall, about a hour job. And if your Nytro treats you like mine does, about a year after you replace one side, the other side will crap out!
 
eBay, spi hand warmers for hooked bars, 24.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321907078836?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

You don't need controls you just splice the new ones onto the old cable end. Easy job

RSI 8" long grips
http://www.ebay.com/itm/260722139789?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

RSI Grip Glue
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231179881303?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

You can also help the warmers by once you have the grip(s) off, getting a can of Great Stuff expanding foam insulation and jamming the tube all the way down the handlebar and filling it in while bringing the tube out of the handle bars. Let it set overnight at least then shave the foam that expanded out of every hole in the bars off so they're nicey nice


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Am I about to get flamed? :) Yes I did buy all of them. The grips looked like RSI's but were about $5 cheaper than anyone else, and low and behold they showed up in RSI packaging. The grip glue I'm sure you can source locally for an equal price before shipping.
 
No I'm not gonna flame you maybe someone else lol i was just curious if you saved your original grips and reused those with the other spo hand warmers.
Are they pretty warm? Do you have a pic of the grips just wondering how the long grips look
Thanks
 
No, what happened was I bought a set of used MTX bars, when I started the sled for the 1st time with them on, the right one went up in smoke, literally. Melted that hand grip when it shorted. It was an RSI warmer and the tool had drilled and put the rivet RIGHT THRU the warmer. I just cut it off since there was no way it was going to slide off, plus it was worn.

I was going to install the kit this weekend, unsure since I bought my son a 91 phazer ii for 200, then I had to have parts so I HAD to buy a 2nd one with no reg for 75. The 200 one had reg so its all legal to trail ride right now, but the scissors joints on the pogos are poopy sloppy. The 75 sled had the front end redone last year and is tight! He also gave me a DG pipe/can for the sled but no jets. So now the first order is to swap the steering knuckle assemblies from one to the other and make the steering safe for him. I have to say, these phazers are snotty, blip the throttle and it'll swing the #*$&@ around, lots of fun to drift the corners and throw roost all over, but that steering was scary!!! This summer I'll add a 2" drop mount to the skid and get the tunnel up off the track.
 
Now that grip if I put it on my nytro will. It still curve out at the bottom or is that the grip that does that or is it the bars themselves that are curved at the end?

Ya i remember driving one of those years ago and I thought it was a blast. I haven't had the chance to drive a new one either but I heard the new ones are fun as well.
 
The bars have the curve at the end. The RSI grips are super long at 8" to cover the mountain bar curl and cover the normal grip area. I'm willing to bet I need to trim some length off the grips (that's normal and expected) so they install fully and seat fully on the bar curl all the way to the controls. No more rivets, the grip glue will eliminate those.
 
Is there a way to test resistance? I have had one not working for longer than it worked. My climate is on the warmer side and mountain riding keeps ya warmer..... BUT would like both to work.

Any electrical info on resistance checks?
 
Not really, the warmers are either made with a nichrome wire winding or they're resistance traces. If you disconnect the warmer plug so now its not powered and the gnd lead is no longer connecting chassis gnd then put a ohmmeter from gnd to a hot lead on the disconnect warmer side (not the machine side) there should be either very minimal resistance (nichrome) or maybe a few hundred or a few thousand (k) ohms. If you get zero ohms, dead short, leave the warmer unplugged and check from hot lead to chassis gnd and warmer gnd to chassis gnd to see if its burned thru to the handlebar. If the meter blinks, shows OL, or over 2M ohms when your going from hot lead to gnd then its trying to say its an open or basically that trace or wire is burned out. It is possible in a 2 stage warmer for one lead to work and the other hot lead to not work, basically 1 circuit burned out and the other is fine.

Good luck with it.
 
Don't know the Nytro grips but they are like Apex grips then they are easy to test. Simply unplug the element lead from the harness. Take the leads from an ohm meter and make contact with the terminals in the connector. I jam them in from the backside. This way I do not damage the terminals and they stay put.
The Apex reads 6.3 ohms. You can double check on your sled what the reading should be by testing the known good element.
IMG_1727 (Medium).JPG
 


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