One more bad stator code 12 thread!

[RTX]

I ended up replacing my stator when my stator pickup failed.
Like you i was a little hesitant to go with the artermarket and the yamaha stator assembly is expensive
If i had to do it again i would replace just the pickup.
The part # can be found on here with a search
It seems very rare that the actual stator fails it always seems to be the pickup.

 

[ranger1]

So... This sounds like it's not the big of a job. Why not try the aftermarket stator? It really is only a few could of wire that had to meet a proper resistance. I am guessing if you weren't happy they wouldn't take it back though.

I have really been considering the RMstator because it is a fraction of the OEM cost but.....the bottom line is, do I want to chance being stuck in the middle of know where? I was hoping for more positive things said about it but there is more negative than positive unfortunately.Money savings is a big thing but reliability is even bigger.

 

[72Gran]

I purchased an RM stator and pickup assembly last spring on a code 12 failure after valve adjustment. I now have 5000kms on that stator and no issues. Interesting enough my long time stalling issue is gone? Not sure if it was the stator, valve adjustment or cleaning the temp sensor that solved it. Only 4 exhaust valves needed adjusting to the next shim size all others were within spec. at 38000kms.

 

[ranger1]

I am planning on putting the new OEM stator in tomorrow night after work. The manual says to use Yamaha sealant on the stator coil assembly grommet,(the one that is fitted in the cover plate. I have gasket maker & high temp silicone, can I use any of those or is something else recommended? The threads on the stator bolts looked reddish brown, do I use red locktight or blue? Use locktight on the cover bolts? Anyone happen to know the torque on the three stator bolts? Lastly, not sure what the function of the oil on the stator is but do I have to put oil back on the new stator, lol? Thanks!!!!
I will post pics of the proceedure

 

[sideshowBob]

I am planning on putting the new OEM stator in tomorrow night after work. The manual says to use Yamaha sealant on the stator coil assembly grommet,(the one that is fitted in the cover plate. I have gasket maker & high temp silicone, can I use any of those or is something else recommended? The threads on the stator bolts looked reddish brown, do I use red locktight or blue? Use locktight on the cover bolts? Anyone happen to know the torque on the three stator bolts? Lastly, not sure what the function of the oil on the stator is but do I have to put oil back on the new stator, lol? Thanks!!!!
I will post pics of the proceedure

Any good Oil resistant RTV sealant will work.
I would use blue Loctite but if you use red remember to heat them if you ever remove them again
I would not use Loctite on the cover bolts
You don't need to add oil in stator area the engine oil circulation will replenish whatever is in there.

 

[ranger1]

Thanks for the oil resistant RTV sealant input sideshowbob!

 

[apex55]

I spliced in the pickup. If anyone does this make sure to measure the gap between the stator and the pickup before you remove the old one. On the replacement pickups you need to open the holes to get the pickup close enough. I've got 3000 miles on since the replacement.

 

[scott32]

The original 2006/07 stator part number was 8FP-81410-00-00...the updated stator part number is 8FP-81410-02-00.
The 02 is an indication that Yamaha has updated the original stator twice, probably due to durability issues. I have run into this on my 2002 SRX stator as well as the TPS's on both my 2002 SRX and my Attak as well. They don't necessarily recall on item they just improve it and eliminate the original less reliable part.

No special tools to change the stator just a bit of time and patience
-drain oil from oil tank
-remove oil tank
-unplug stator in nose from voltage regulator
-remove stator cover[there is a bit of oil in there]
-remove old stator
-install new stator using blue Loctite on allen head bolts
-reverse steps

So what year was the last update? I was looking at an '11 Apex xtx last spring and local dealer allowed it to be taken north for a shakedown tour. It had 5000km on it and came home with a failed stator. I'm not sure Yamaha is any better quality than aftermarket, in fact I am of the opinion it is of much less than. ie; driveshafts, header pipes, donuts, skis, sliders, belts, lights, handwarmers, balljoints, front end bushings, steering blocks. It would be nice if there was an independant test done on both, the updated stator, and aftermarket to prove this.I'm sure the rm stator is atleast mechanicly equal, and therefore superior based on price alone. I say this because Yamaha charges/gouges the snit out of every part, especially the more popular parts. ie. o-p-o spring is $12 more than the rest listed, same goes for a silver seondary, popular dupont sliders went up $20 etc. the list can go on.

 

[sideshowBob]

So what year was the last update?.

The updated stator showed up when replacing the 2006/07 Stators. The 2011 and up stators and flywheels are different then the earlier models.

 

[ranger1]

Changed the stator last night. After putting it all back together I turned the key & the yellow light & code 12 came up again & I thought to myself, crap, is it something else?.....low & behold as soon as it turned over the code disappeared & she fired right up, wuhooo!!

 

[sideshowBob]

Changed the stator last night. After putting it all back together I turned the key & the yellow light & code 12 came up again & I thought to myself, crap, is it something else?.....low & behold as soon as it turned over the code disappeared & she fired right up, wuhooo!!

Keep us posted on how it runs and if it corrected your performance issues.

 

[ranger1]

Sideshowbob, it is supposed to be a high of -22 to -30 celcius tomorrow but I am going for ride tomorrow to find out. Have to hold e'r to the pickle to find out if it cured the loss of RPM issue....hopefully it is not a "lean" condition, lol