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Phaser xtx oil change

Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
37
Age
51
Location
Inverness Cape Breton N.S
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2015 Yamaha phaser 144 xtx
Hey Biiiys

Taking the phaser into a yamaha tec next week for an oil change and lookover. But holy #*$&@ 245 plus tax because the oil change takes 2 hrs and the fluids and filter are 70 smackers plus 13 smackers per plug.
I dont have a garage with enough room to tear her apart but does anyone do their own oil change and just how bad is the phaser to work on ? I just look at as a small price to pay for peace of mind on the trail.
 

What I think is really getting you on the time and price is that you asked them to change the oil filter. On all Yamahas except the Phazer, the oil filter is easy to change. It doesn't need to be done every year, but most people do it because it is easy and only costs a few bucks extra. But on the Phazer, a filter change is NOT easy. The entire front subframe needs to be removed in order to get access to the filter. That's where your time/labor charge is coming in.
 
If you are having the plugs changed that is not a bad price as the seat and tank have to come off for that.

I change my filter every other year, the sleds don't generally run in a dirty environment. Oil change without a filter is easy.

I just did oil and filter on three Phazers last weekend myself. It's not too bad to do. You don't have to remove the subframe, I don't but it's tight.
 
If you are having the plugs changed that is not a bad price as the seat and tank have to come off for that.

I change my filter every other year, the sleds don't generally run in a dirty environment. Oil change without a filter is easy.

I just did oil and filter on three Phazers last weekend myself. It's not too bad to do. You don't have to remove the subframe, I don't but it's tight.
Good point regarding the plug change.
For the filter change, I'd like to know how you do it without removing the subframe. I'll be tackling this job for the first time on my son's Phazer. On the other hand, a dealer will follow the instructions provided by Yamaha - which is to remove the subframe.
 
Unless the plugs are fouled, there is no real need to change them on a regular basis. Those plugs were never changed in 4500 miles on our phazer before we sold it. The combination of 4-stroke and plug technology, changes are a thing of the past unless you are high mileage or fouled one.

Good luck, there are good right ups on here for the oil change.
 
Just remove the belly pan and the air box (and any plastic on the way). I think the filter will go out the bottom.

Once the air box was removed I was able to get the oil filter out the top. But I have small hands :)

Install a K & N filter with the nut on the end. Much easier to get on/off.
 
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Once the air box was removed I was able to get the oil filter out the top. But I have small hands :)

That's exactly how it is meant to be done is through the top. There would be little reason to take the whole airbox out if you could easily drop it out the bottom. The cap style filter wrenches and a socket wrench are the way to get them loosened up and out.
 
That's exactly how it is meant to be done is through the top. There would be little reason to take the whole airbox out if you could easily drop it out the bottom. The cap style filter wrenches and a socket wrench are the way to get them loosened up and out.

Yeah this makes sense I must have been thinking upside down.
 
didn't mooseman have a mod for the oil filter removal in the venture lite section?
 
Remove seat? Negative Ghost Rider.... I just did 2 oil changes and one included the filter on 2x2011 Venture Lites.

FYI- Yamaha recommends oil change at every 2500 mile interval and filter done every 12,500 miles.

Do not remove the seat/tank etc for the oil (seen that advice before and wish that rumor never got started). Pull the airbox and bottom skid panel off, filter is right there and you can reach the head plug to "crack" the seal and drain completely. Get a $6 oil filter wrench (wrench style with long handles). You will mangle,it but it is trash anyways.

I bought my machines at 600 miles and 1600 miles, plugs in the 600 mile one were fouled garbage. You must let those engines run for at least 10 minutes whenever you start them up or you will foul them up!. If you are doing the plugs then yes, remove the seat and dont over-torque those bad boys. Just remember to mark your fuel tank on the tunnel so when you put it back on your seat doesnt wobble. And call Oreillys or Napa for those plugs they only charge $7/plug

Your "stock" one piece plugs have been superseded by a "2 piece" ngk plug so make sure you get the one piece ones or you will not have the spark plug cap to put it back together (learned the hard way) one piece plugs end with the letter "k".

As long as you have the airbox out give the filter a wash and make sure no packrats made a home in there over the summer.
 
That's exactly how it is meant to be done is through the top. There would be little reason to take the whole airbox out if you could easily drop it out the bottom. The cap style filter wrenches and a socket wrench are the way to get them loosened up and out.

I did my filter change through the bottom as I didnt feel like messing with the airbox, then had to trouble shoot the dreaded F/R shift issue and realized how much easier it would have been to go that route! Doh!
 
Unless the plugs are fouled, there is no real need to change them on a regular basis. Those plugs were never changed in 4500 miles on our phazer before we sold it. The combination of 4-stroke and plug technology, changes are a thing of the past unless you are high mileage or fouled one.

Good luck, there are good right ups on here for the oil change.

Or crappy gas or using regular grade fuel or wet gas or someone accidentally puts 2 stroke fuel in there...... Or you buy a used one with 600 miles and the plugs are toast from not running it long enough when started each time.
 


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