Phazer disassembly help...

[TRUTH]

Hey all,
I just picked up a phazer FX yesterday, it is an awesome sled!! I am in the process of tearing it down to modify it to fit my riding...What a piece of engineering!! I think you need a degree just to get at the plugs! hahah.
I want to remove the airbox to get a look at the throttle bodies, but can't for the life of me figure out how to get it off! The sled cranks over close to 10 times before it fires in warm temps (30 degrees F plus) and has a stumble at low throttle. If it were a carbed machine, it acts like the fuel screw needs to be adjusted, or maybe the pilot jet is off a bit..I read about the boots coming off the throttle bodies to air box and want to make sure everything is tight..Thansk! Frank.

 

[cannondale27]

There is boots from throttlebodies to engine but not to the airbox.Any way if you look on outside of your airbox up near top you will find 3 rubber plugs about size of nickle.Remove those and you will see a allen screw in each.Thats what holds your airbox to TB's.Once loose you disconnect two Map sensors(I think they are) and hose under each one,airtemp sensor,and disconnect the big breather hose at the oil tank (easier install than diconnecting at box).Once you do it it is easy next time.I had headlight out also but I believe you can get at all this with it still on.

 

[sniperviper]

Dont know the procedure to get to the throttle bodies but the 10 times cranking to start is normal when engine is cold. Also the stumble or bog when you hit the throttle from idle is also normal, especially noticable before engine is breaked in.

Good luck with your new sled, I'm shure you will love it!

 

[TRUTH]

Thanks for the help guys. I will be tinkering with this sled more this week..What an awesome machine!..The sled has 730 miles on it..Would that be considered "broken in"? The stumble concerned me. Its not huge just a little bobble on the bottom, like the fuel screw isn't adjusted correctly on a 450 (if you are familiar witht them) otherwise it ran great. I had read here that the Phazer did not start fast, but I wasn't aware they turned over that many times before firing..If its normal, its no biggie to me! Frank

 

[sniperviper]

Yes with that milage it should be considered as "broken in" I have a wr 450 f and I know what you meen but the bog isnt noticable, at least on my fx when riding. The injection system is adjustable, rich/leaner mixture and I have the procedure to do this but I havent tryed it out so I cant help you with any kind of recomendations on this issue.

 

[cannondale27]

So it is adjustable like Apex and others?Thats awesome.Sniperviper could you share the procedure?I would bet these Phazers are slightly rich at least on low end.On a side note I traded a 06 YZF for this Phazer.That quad had the touchiest jetting of anything I have ever owned.Required different jetting for even a 20deg diff in temp.Pretty much got rid of any hesitation it had with Jetting,Accel timing,and Leakjet change.

 

[sniperviper]

Here it is, but I have heard that if you lean it out it can be a hard starter when cold. Also, you ruin warranty on engine if any s h i t happens after playing with the fuel injection and yamaha notice it..

You find the green wire that the instruction refer to inside the main electrical hose down under battery (inside where hose is fattest so you have to cut it open) You must take off both the right side plastic cover to find it.

Adjustment done will be on the whole powerband, you cant just lean it out down low if you know what I meen.



1) Install a wire or paperclip in the pale green wire in the connector on the right side. Its a male connector only with no mate. Wire only needs to be grounded.

2)Enter Diagnostic mode:
-Key and kill sw off, press and hold both "select and reset" and then power up the gauge (key and kill on)
*I leave key on and just use the kill switch.
-Wait 8 seconds and the guage will go blank except for "DI" in the display
-Press select to toggle between "DI" and "CO", select "CO"
*if there is no selection recheck your ground
-press and hold both "select and reset" 3 seconds
-gauge will display "C:01" this is were you select which cylinder you want to adjust
-press and hold "select and reset" 3 seconds and a number will appear in the odometer section,(will be 0)
-press select to increase the number (richer), "reset" to decrease the number (leaner)
*adjust it to read 10 for richer, -10 will be leaner
-Press both select and reset and chose C:02 and adjust the same as above, you must do this for each cylinder. The engine will run normally in CO mode so you can change settings with the engine running or on the trail. To reset simply turn off key or kill switch and the guage will return to normal.

 

[rfabro]

I've adjusted the CO on mine a couple times and it definitely helps with off idle throttle response. Mine is now at -4 on #1 and -3 on #2. The reason for the difference is, when I pulled the plugs, #1 was a little richer than #2.

Yeah, that wire is milky green with just a cap plug on the end. It's only wrapped with electrical tape- no cutting of the harness needed. Once it's free, you can just get to it with lower plastic panel on- just bend out of the way a little. I use a jumper wire straight to negative battery terminal. You can easily do this procedure on the trail.

Since this EFI system is open loop as opposed to closed loop(oxygen sensor), it runs on preprogrammed maps and does not compensate for temp and altitude changes. At least jetting changes are easy!

 

[cannondale27]

Thanks guys.This site is awesome!

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Couple of Quick question here:
Just would like to confirm before trying this,

1) Is it ok to leave green wire grounded while testing?
2)Have any of you richend up with slip on or full exhaust with positive results?
3) Do you have to start sled while in CO mode (have it physically running) to change settings or should it be shut off, reset and changed, then fire sled in CO mode.

 

[crazy_dave]

Here it is, but I have heard that if you lean it out it can be a hard starter when cold. Also, you ruin warranty on engine if any s h i t happens after playing with the fuel injection and yamaha notice it..

You find the green wire that the instruction refer to inside the main electrical hose down under battery (inside where hose is fattest so you have to cut it open) You must take off both the right side plastic cover to find it.

Adjustment done will be on the whole powerband, you cant just lean it out down low if you know what I meen.



1) Install a wire or paperclip in the pale green wire in the connector on the right side. Its a male connector only with no mate. Wire only needs to be grounded.

2)Enter Diagnostic mode:
-Key and kill sw off, press and hold both "select and reset" and then power up the gauge (key and kill on)
*I leave key on and just use the kill switch.
-Wait 8 seconds and the guage will go blank except for "DI" in the display
-Press select to toggle between "DI" and "CO", select "CO"
*if there is no selection recheck your ground
-press and hold both "select and reset" 3 seconds
-gauge will display "C:01" this is were you select which cylinder you want to adjust
-press and hold "select and reset" 3 seconds and a number will appear in the odometer section,(will be 0)
-press select to increase the number (richer), "reset" to decrease the number (leaner)
*adjust it to read 10 for richer, -10 will be leaner
-Press both select and reset and chose C:02 and adjust the same as above, you must do this for each cylinder. The engine will run normally in CO mode so you can change settings with the engine running or on the trail. To reset simply turn off key or kill switch and the guage will return to normal.

This is very similar to how you do it on the little WR250R/X.



The WR-X/R has nothing in common with the WR250F. It’s more like ¼ of the R1 motor.

 

[ATV PRO #11]

Couple of Quick question here:
Just would like to confirm before trying this,

1) Is it ok to leave green wire grounded while testing?
2)Have any of you richend up with slip on or full exhaust with positive results?
3) Do you have to start sled while in CO mode (have it physically running) to change settings or should it be shut off, reset and changed, then fire sled in CO mode.

Anyone?

 

[turboapc]

1) Install a wire or paperclip in the pale green wire in the connector on the right side. Its a male connector only with no mate. Wire only needs to be grounded.

2)Enter Diagnostic mode:
-Key and kill sw off, press and hold both "select and reset" and then power up the gauge (key and kill on)
*I leave key on and just use the kill switch.
-Wait 8 seconds and the guage will go blank except for "DI" in the display
-Press select to toggle between "DI" and "CO", select "CO"
*if there is no selection recheck your ground
-press and hold both "select and reset" 3 seconds
-gauge will display "C:01" this is were you select which cylinder you want to adjust
-press and hold "select and reset" 3 seconds and a number will appear in the odometer section,(will be 0)
-press select to increase the number (richer), "reset" to decrease the number (leaner)
*adjust it to read 10 for richer, -10 will be leaner
-Press both select and reset and chose C:02 and adjust the same as above, you must do this for each cylinder. The engine will run normally in CO mode so you can change settings with the engine running or on the trail. To reset simply turn off key or kill switch and the guage will return to normal.

About selections between CO & DI
When we select CO we chancing fuelmaps, ok!

But anyone knows what is DI??

dont try this yet but i'll have to install usb socket to near key so i think i install switch for that wire..
Any pictures of wire so i can locate and find it?

 

[cannondale27]

Couple of Quick question here:
Just would like to confirm before trying this,

1) Is it ok to leave green wire grounded while testing?
2)Have any of you richend up with slip on or full exhaust with positive results?
3) Do you have to start sled while in CO mode (have it physically running) to change settings or should it be shut off, reset and changed, then fire sled in CO mode.

It can be changed with sled running or not. I never tuned for pipe with co. Just low and start. PC3 from ULmER for tune.

 

[2stroken]

I've adjusted the CO on mine a couple times and it definitely helps with off idle throttle response. Mine is now at -4 on #1 and -3 on #2. The reason for the difference is, when I pulled the plugs, #1 was a little richer than #2.

Yeah, that wire is milky green with just a cap plug on the end. It's only wrapped with electrical tape- no cutting of the harness needed. Once it's free, you can just get to it with lower plastic panel on- just bend out of the way a little. I use a jumper wire straight to negative battery terminal. You can easily do this procedure on the trail.

Since this EFI system is open loop as opposed to closed loop(oxygen sensor), it runs on preprogrammed maps and does not compensate for temp and altitude changes. At least jetting changes are easy!

Are you sure it doesn't compensate for temp and altitude settings? I agree with the open loop statement, but imagine it uses intake air temp and barometric pressure to shift the fuel curves.