Phazer FX Ski Lift in the Turns Way Too Much

[donnyrhodes]

Tryin to Hang with the Revs and FIrecats Yesterday and Takin turns at 50 Mph or 60 Mph I Couldnt Keep the Dam Inner Ski on the Snow...


What do I have to Adjust to Keep this Down.... Other then that She is a runner

 

[simonzsayz]

I know what you mean. I softened my front shocks just to the point were softer would lower the front, loosened the front skid spring all the way so as to be able to lean into the turns more. It might have helped but the center of gravity on the faze is high and I think it's just not gonna be able to hit the corners as hard as the lower sleds. Honestly I've slowed down a bit. I led with no problem with the crew I was just with, but the other crew I ride with I'm gonna have trouble in the corners I'm sure. I'm getting longer carbides for sure! But that will make the outside ski grab even harder, picking the iner ski more, so I don't know the awnser, I'll be watchin this thread.

 

[Swiss Sledder]

Haven't rode the Phazer but I have seen guys making the switch from 2-strokes to 4-strokes and having problems in the corners with ski lift. On the RX-1 and Apex/Attak models, the problem is controlling the weight transfer. When you let off the throttle completely going into a turn like you would on a 2-stroke, the weight transfers to the rear and when you turn, the skis pop up. To eliminate this, I never completely let off the throttle going into turns. Instead, reduce the throttle enough to safely navigate the corner but not enough such that the weight transfers to the rear.

This works and doesn't cost you a dime.

 

[checkman39]

Haven't rode the Phazer but I have seen guys making the switch from 2-strokes to 4-strokes and having problems in the corners with ski lift. On the RX-1 and Apex/Attak models, the problem is controlling the weight transfer. When you let off the throttle completely going into a turn like you would on a 2-stroke, the weight transfers to the rear and when you turn, the skis pop up. To eliminate this, I never completely let off the throttle going into turns. Instead, reduce the throttle enough to safely navigate the corner but not enough such that the weight transfers to the rear.

This works and doesn't cost you a dime.

I agree. I switched from a F7 and after 10 minutes I learned that you want to hold the throttle when cornering . After I started to do that I had no issues with cornering and sharp curves. I had the stock carbides on it. I might put woodys duel runners on. Also I hardly use the brakes now when stopping, the motor slows me down. As for shock adjustment, I loosened the front skid shock a little bit and tightened the front coils by 3-1/2 turns. My friend Ross down at highgear helped me to set the suspension up for me. Like he told me the more you decease your front coil pressure your going to be more prone to body role because you softening the shocks. If you want to stick harder you want the shocks stiffer. I am also standup ditchbanger kind of rider. It boils down to your riding style.

 

[Superman]

Haven't rode the Phazer but I have seen guys making the switch from 2-strokes to 4-strokes and having problems in the corners with ski lift. On the RX-1 and Apex/Attak models, the problem is controlling the weight transfer. When you let off the throttle completely going into a turn like you would on a 2-stroke, the weight transfers to the rear and when you turn, the skis pop up. To eliminate this, I never completely let off the throttle going into turns. Instead, reduce the throttle enough to safely navigate the corner but not enough such that the weight transfers to the rear.

This works and doesn't cost you a dime.

Yep, this works on My RX-1 as well as attak. Took the words tight out of My mouth Swiss.

 

[MrSled]

I found if I rode it harder and shifted my weight forward and out I had nearly no ski lift.

 

[phazerwill]

I had this same problem and was used to a 2 stroke before. I put yamaha mountain skis on my phazer GT and then 6" woodys Dooleys, I know this sound completely crazy and scary as hell, but in the corner when the ski came up, I would accelerate and lean forward. It drove the sled right through the corner and calm the front end down, Also just as they said never get all the way out of the throttle, accelerate through the corner if possible.

 

[donnyrhodes]

ttt

 

[Isthatahemi]

Drill a couple new holes on the front (return) side of the limiter strap, find which one leaves the strap fully extended with no slack, when sitting on the machine. Voila, ski lift is cured. I tried all the possible tweaks everyone recommended, some helped, this is the only one that really made the machine handle. The added bonus is you can now firm up the front track spring to make the steering lighter, and reduce front arm bottoming!

 

[Reaper]

Drill a couple new holes on the front (return) side of the limiter strap, find which one leaves the strap fully extended with no slack, when sitting on the machine. Voila, ski lift is cured. I tried all the possible tweaks everyone recommended, some helped, this is the only one that really made the machine handle. The added bonus is you can now firm up the front track spring to make the steering lighter, and reduce front arm bottoming!

I have heard this works very well, could you detail out a little more for me ?

 

[cannondale27]

I think what he is saying is that if you go one hole tighter from stock there is still slack if you go two holes tighter from stock it is too tight.Need to drill new holes so you are just right.Thanks I am going to try that also.

 

[Isthatahemi]

I think what he is saying is that if you go one hole tighter from stock there is still slack if you go two holes tighter from stock it is too tight.Need to drill new holes so you are just right.Thanks I am going to try that also.

The other advice given is a very good start, but the following transforms the sled...
There is one set of holes on the front side of the strap. and 5 on the back. On the side of the strap that faces the front of the sled. Drill two sets of holes. (3/8" bit) One 1/2 an inch above, the other 1 inch. Now you have 15 positions instead of 5. Although only the tighter (or shorter) ones are of interest. Now try to set up your sled so that there is no slack when you are sitting on your sled. Not tight, just no slack, so now when you sled goes to tip up, instead of having the front of the track act as a fulcrum, it now pulls up with the ski, ski barely comes up and Voila, tippines mostly gone. Makes a huge difference, allowed me to enjoy the sled, before the handling was just poor.

 

[Reaper]

Perfect, Thx !