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Phazer - Not Running - Code 43

I am assuming that the Phazer is the same as an Apex and when you turn the key to crank it supplies (-/ground) through the blue or blue/white wire to the starter relay. So I would check there and make sure you are getting the negative to the relay when the key is turned to crank. You should also have a Red/white wire going into the white Molex plug in the top of the starter relay (by the fuses) that should also be carrying 12v.

Then check the two 8mm bolts on the starter relay...one terminal (8mm bolt) should have constant 12v and the other terminal (8mm bolt) 12v when the key is being turned (crank). How you can easily test if the relay is bad is just turn the key on to run position and connect the 2 terminals at the relay together (small piece of heavy gauge wire) and see if it cranks.

Again, as Blue Dave says....you will need a Multimeter (or at least a 12v test light) to do any of that.
 

I have 2 phazers and have swapped out the relay with a known good one........ Not the relay guys. also tried a new ECU from a known good one.........

Anyone know if that blue/white wire that runs into the diode that is tapped up onto the starter relay harness is supposed to drop to 9 volts when you go to crank the engine over?
 
Does the batery also drop to 9V? I have the same thing going on right now and its causing me problems as well.

Try swapping the battery with the other sled, I have a feeling that may fix the problem.
 
Still no go

I have swapped the battery with my nytro. Still same issue......... this one has me baffled.
 
Did you check the things in the post I made from the service manual?
 
Yes, that seems to be working just fine.
 
Yes, there is a diode across the starter relay coil circuit. The purpose is to clamp the reverse voltage spike which is inherently produced when the magnetic field collapses as the relay coil is de-energized. It is common practice to put a diode across the coil circuit of relays that are controlled by a computer such as the ECU in your sled. Without the diode there would be a large momentary voltage spike of reverse polarity created whenever the relay was switched off which could damage the transistors in the ECU.

If you are seeing +9v on the blue/white wire when the key switch is in the crank position this is a problem as it should be grounded while cranking. I'll bet that with the key on and the kill switch up that if you make a temporary jumper wire from ground to the blue/white wire the engine will crank. This will prove that your key switch is not properly grounding the blue/white wire which could be a bad key switch or a bad connection between the key switch and the relay or between the key switch and ground.
 
Solved problem today. Went searching for a bad ground. Didn't take long to find that it had melted the grounding block where all the grounds come together.

Appearently there is a bulletin on that, and the dealer will take care of it under a recall/service/warranty bulletin.

Glad it was somewhat easy.......
 
Ahh yes.

Good catch on the grounding block, glad you got it figured out!
 


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