mattmichyam
Extreme
I need my Apex mono shock rebuilt this year and was thinking about the Pioneer ressy. Has anybody used this yet? I do have the big boy spring in my sled. Should I just go with the rebuild and revalved instead?
lawmanbsi
Expert
I just sent mine to pioneer. I'm having him revalve the shock and put on the fat boy spring. I'm 200lbs and that is the recomended wieght for the heavier spring. I would assume your over the 200 mark. If you rode the sled when the shock was good and you liked the ride then you wouldn't need to have it re-valved. If you really considered youself an aggressive rider and you actually get into the suspension and make the adjustment to get it set right the resi-kit might be for you. It's like $350 to get the resi-kit, I would try the revalve first before I got the resi-kit. Plus with the shock rebuilt/re-valved you could sell it and get the Ohlins electronic shock for a few hundred more. which would be about the some you would be paying for the resi-kit.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
The resi works nice if you need the extra oil capacity to keep the shock from getting so hot it goes out of calibration.
I would go with the revalve with the rebuild - to get away from Yammis wannabe valve stack and move into one that works - no matter who you send it to. This will likely involve tuning the valve stack for both low and high speed hits. I would do this if getting the resi or not.
Now lets say you add a resi to that revalve work. If you do ANYTHING with the clicker, it will affect both low and high speed damping (not good!). That awesome chatter bump resistance you had with the revalve will be gone with your attempt to keep the sled from bottoming by closing up the clicker a little. By restricting the oil flow (with the clicker) to increase bump resistance, you'll have also restricted the oil flow when you're looking for that chatter resistance - which becomes much stiffer due to that same change - changing (ruining) the necessary damping there as well.
Sorry if that's not clear, it's kinda hard to explain. Talk to your shock guy (whoever!) to get clear on what to expect though! -Al
I would go with the revalve with the rebuild - to get away from Yammis wannabe valve stack and move into one that works - no matter who you send it to. This will likely involve tuning the valve stack for both low and high speed hits. I would do this if getting the resi or not.
Now lets say you add a resi to that revalve work. If you do ANYTHING with the clicker, it will affect both low and high speed damping (not good!). That awesome chatter bump resistance you had with the revalve will be gone with your attempt to keep the sled from bottoming by closing up the clicker a little. By restricting the oil flow (with the clicker) to increase bump resistance, you'll have also restricted the oil flow when you're looking for that chatter resistance - which becomes much stiffer due to that same change - changing (ruining) the necessary damping there as well.
Sorry if that's not clear, it's kinda hard to explain. Talk to your shock guy (whoever!) to get clear on what to expect though! -Al
