xprtrpr
Extreme
Hey this probably sounds like a stupid question to you TY veterans out there... but here goes anyway. I read in the manual to check track tension you put the machine on it's side. Now, I am afraid to do that with all this plastic on this thing. Is there any special side it needs to go on? Anything i need to put on ground? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
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I became accustomed to flipping my RX on its side allot when I had the No-action skid in it. I also flip it up to change wear-bars. But I use a track stand to check tension with a fish scale.
You can lay a piece of cardboard down and tip the sled over on the throttle-side. Let it go until it rests on the rubber triangular pad on the belly pan. To start it after you flip it back over, CHOKE OFF full throttle and crank it until it runs on it's own.
OR
you can stick your fingers in the smelly carburetors and hold the slides up while cranking it over too.
You can lay a piece of cardboard down and tip the sled over on the throttle-side. Let it go until it rests on the rubber triangular pad on the belly pan. To start it after you flip it back over, CHOKE OFF full throttle and crank it until it runs on it's own.
OR
you can stick your fingers in the smelly carburetors and hold the slides up while cranking it over too.
xprtrpr
Extreme
Thanks
Again, pardon the ignorance, when you say "wear bars" are you referring to the ones on the skiis? I have new bergstrom skegs I need to add, but not really sure of a good way to jack up the sled in the front so that I can take the ski off. I was going to jack it up by the suspension arms in the front, but I was afaid that my luck would be that I would bend them.
Again, pardon the ignorance, when you say "wear bars" are you referring to the ones on the skiis? I have new bergstrom skegs I need to add, but not really sure of a good way to jack up the sled in the front so that I can take the ski off. I was going to jack it up by the suspension arms in the front, but I was afaid that my luck would be that I would bend them.
Red2003
TY 4 Stroke Guru
You can jack on the arms. Thay are tough. Just prop the rear off the ground by the bumper to check the track. Actually, forget that. Get a 14 mm deep socket, and I believe a 18mm and 22mm wrench for the rear axle. Take the sled out on the snow, or grass if you don't have snow and from a stop launch it full throttle. If it rachets the track, it's too loose and needs to be tightened, if it doesn't you're good to go. If it ratchets, tighten a 1/2 turn at a time until it stops. The RX1 is notorious for ratcheting and needs to be run pretty tight.
4Fighter
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2003
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- Snowmobile
- '07 Attak GT
Re: Thanks
No pardon needed - Yes. Wear bars I.e. skegs, carbides, runners.
I have found the easiest way (for me) to change skegs is to roll it over, normally you would not need to remove the skis, but you will need to shim them so the skegs wear properly, and the skis don't dart (per Bergstrom) but that's coming from a guy who doesn't own a sled lift either. You can always do one ski at a time - as you can also roll over the other side for a brief period of time too.
If you want to jack the sled up, place a board between the swing arm mounts (bulkhead). You can stabilize the sled by blocking the front corners of the tunnel opening, but avoid blocking directly under the side panel screws and heat exchangers. I have also jacked under the A-arms too, but jacking in the center keeps the jack out of your way, and you can do both skis without re-jacking.
As for track tension: Any adjustment you make, make sure it not only runs as loose as you can get away with, but also make sure it runs true. If you are running studs then keep it on the tight side.
xprtrpr said:
No pardon needed - Yes. Wear bars I.e. skegs, carbides, runners.
I have found the easiest way (for me) to change skegs is to roll it over, normally you would not need to remove the skis, but you will need to shim them so the skegs wear properly, and the skis don't dart (per Bergstrom) but that's coming from a guy who doesn't own a sled lift either. You can always do one ski at a time - as you can also roll over the other side for a brief period of time too.
If you want to jack the sled up, place a board between the swing arm mounts (bulkhead). You can stabilize the sled by blocking the front corners of the tunnel opening, but avoid blocking directly under the side panel screws and heat exchangers. I have also jacked under the A-arms too, but jacking in the center keeps the jack out of your way, and you can do both skis without re-jacking.
As for track tension: Any adjustment you make, make sure it not only runs as loose as you can get away with, but also make sure it runs true. If you are running studs then keep it on the tight side.
BURMAD69
Expert
I usually check my track tension when I got the old girl on her roof! HA HA, Been 2 years without having to replace the headlight and dash. Track tension should be checked with the sled on a stand so you can check both sides and make sure it running centered. IMO
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