Problems with belt smoking and sled feeling like brakes are on...2011 Vector

[troverman]

I'm having an issue where the snowmobile belt starts to smoke after just a mile or two down the trail. The sled seems to be operating fine, except if I let off, it seems like the brakes are slightly on. The remedy is to put the sled in reverse, back up a couple of feet, throw it back into forward gear, and good to go.

I'm also hearing a slight whistling or whining sound at idle. I'm the original owner and the factory belt shredded last year...put the spare belt on, no problem for the rest of last year. Now the sled is doing this almost every time I ride it.

It also sometimes grinds in reverse...and sometimes won't go forward at first when forward gear is re-selected.

Thoughts? I tried adjusting the reverse linkage once...maybe adjusted it too far?

I also don't understand how the belt is smoking and squealing until I put it in reverse for a foot or two, then back to forward and good to go?

Thanks

 

[Redbeard]

I wonder if you don't have a bad bearing(s) somewhere in the drive line?

Raise rear of sled and turn driven pulley over by hand to gauge the situation

 

[troverman]

I don't think so...if a bearing is bad, it remains bad. In my case, after backing up a few feet and then going forward again, the problem is solved. I just rode 150 miles this past Saturday without issue after the first mile....stop...reverse...and then forward.

 

[Redbeard]

I would confirm your driveline bearings and chain case internals. Otherwise you're shooting in the dark.

 

[troverman]

Well, driveline bearings don't make it grind in reverse, either.

I just replaced the hifaxes and the track turned freely. Sled has 3000 miles on it.

 

[74Nitro]

Any chance the slides are moving on the rails for some reason? Backing up would put them back in place.
Belt squealing at idle is because the belt height bolts are worn down a little.

 

[troverman]

At first I thought it was the slides, especially since the smell was similar, but they are fine (held in place by the screw on each end). Not to mention, the smoke pouring out from the left cowl area...

 

[Yamajon1]

I’m with red beard I have seen bearings bind when rotated in one direction and free up when rotated in the opposite direction only to eventually tighten when turned in the original direction again. If your smoking the belt something in the drive line is binding or you have a clutch issue. Is the belt sitting properly at the top in the secondary ?

 

[troverman]

I'm not a snowmobile mechanic, but I've worked on my fair share of automobiles for years. In my experience, a bearing is either "good" or "bad." It can't be bad for a minute, then good for the next 5 hours, then bad again.

 

[Redbeard]

I'm not a snowmobile mechanic, but I've worked on my fair share of automobiles for years. In my experience, a bearing is either "good" or "bad." It can't be bad for a minute, then good for the next 5 hours, then bad again.

What I gathered from your first post, is that you're seeking everyone's "thoughts" on what might be ailing your sled, correct?

So far, you've done nothing but tell everyone how experienced you are, and how wrong we are for the suggestions that are offered. We have all been in your position, and are just trying to help.

If you confirmed that your hyfax are fine, as suggested above^^, then great! That's an easy inspection. But, have you confirmed anything else? Have you looked at your left jackshaft and left drive axle bearing? Have you opened the chain case and inspected and / or confirmed there's adequate oil inside?

From my personal experience - in addition to all the other chain case internals, there are needle bearings inside the bottom drive sprocket, and the reverse idler sprocket. Although not common, these can fail and cause similar problems to what you're having. Ask me how I know!

It doesn't matter if your sled only has 3,000 miles on it, it's 9 yrs old! Grease doesn't last forever! It eventually dries out, especially in cheap roller ball bearings that have been sitting around for years with water in them, or run out of grease and oil. And yes, a dying bearing can still run a long time, even with only 3 or 4 balls left, before eventually failing completely. I've seen it in sleds, auto, and especially farm equipment.

As far as your belt, like mentioned above^^, it's either too tight, the wrong belt, or clutch issues. Is it a Yamaha belt or an aftermarket? Not all belts are created equal.

Take the cover off the primary and inspect the bushings and spring. Take the secondary apart and inspect the bushings, spring and helix. Work your way through the drive line until you find it.

Everything I've mentioned is just a pointer; a potential area to inspect. I may not be right, but don't tell everyone that's trying to help you that they're wrong. Tear into it and confirm first. Otherwise, you can't be helped, and are wasting your time on this great website.

 

[Yamajon1]

36 years as an auto tech has taught me to never discount any possibility. I’m not saying that’s definitely your problem I’m just saying don’t think it couldn’t be. Not trying to rock the boat just trying to help out.

 

[troverman]

I appreciate you guys for giving me ideas. I wasn't intending to be offensive, just giving my opinion as to why I thought a given idea might not be the solution.

The belt is the OEM spare that came with the sled. I purchased another OEM belt and have that as the new spare. The chaincase has a dipstick, which reveals the correct amount of fluid is still in the case. The fluid is completely clear, and I see no metal shavings.

I will pull the clutch side plastic and examine what I can see over there. There was a user on here "Grizz" that posted a youtube video on the inner workings of the Yamaha chaincase and reverse.

Our season here seems to be rapidly ending; I'm probably going to try to get a few more rides in and then I'll likely open the chaincase and see what I can see. It'll be an opportunity to change the chaincase oil if nothing else.

I will note that my 1999 Polaris XC SP500 also has a chaincase with reverse, has over 7,000 miles on it, has never had a fluid change, and reverse works flawlessly. I'm a little disappointed the Yamaha chaincase seems to be a bit more finicky on what is otherwise an excellent sled.

 

[steiner]

Intermittent or inconsistent issues are very hard to diagnose. It could be something blatantly obvious are something totally out of the ordinary.
Start with the obvious such as bearings is what needs to be done as stated already. Make sure the jackshaft bearing collar is still tight.
Examine the parking brake and make sure that it is not hanging up. Look and the main brake and see if the caliper is partially seized.
If this started after you changed the hyfax make screws are still in place. Work backwards on the sled of thing you last did after this issue started.
Inspect and clean the clutches. If you smoked your belt, then replace it. A glazed belt is no good.

 

[Roger]

I appreciate you guys for giving me ideas. I wasn't intending to be offensive, just giving my opinion as to why I thought a given idea might not be the solution.

The belt is the OEM spare that came with the sled. I purchased another OEM belt and have that as the new spare. The chaincase has a dipstick, which reveals the correct amount of fluid is still in the case. The fluid is completely clear, and I see no metal shavings.

I will pull the clutch side plastic and examine what I can see over there. There was a user on here "Grizz" that posted a youtube video on the inner workings of the Yamaha chaincase and reverse.

Our season here seems to be rapidly ending; I'm probably going to try to get a few more rides in and then I'll likely open the chaincase and see what I can see. It'll be an opportunity to change the chaincase oil if nothing else.

I will note that my 1999 Polaris XC SP500 also has a chaincase with reverse, has over 7,000 miles on it, has never had a fluid change, and reverse works flawlessly. I'm a little disappointed the Yamaha chaincase seems to be a bit more finicky on what is otherwise an excellent sled.

After 6 brand new Polaris sleds over the years, and 5 blown engines, (and lots of other issues, including a partially broken chain in the chaincase), I switched to Yamaha.
My first one was a 2001 700 triple 2 stroke, no issues after 16000 km.
2nd was a 2008 RS Venture. Engine went under warranty, and it was going again when I traded for...
3rd is a 2012 RS Venture GT. Changed the track at 24000 km. I just put on it's 3rd belt, at 25000 km. Replaced slides at 18000 km, 2nd set of Sno-Traks, which are now due for a change, to a 3rd set. Lots of bogie wheel bearings, where they can turn in one direction, and not the other, and then they free up, and then they seize again, while you're greasing them!
Never had reverse, or chaincase issues.