Pros and Cons on CAMOPLAST Ice Ripper track

[RX1-er-2005]

I wan't to install a Ice Ripper on my '08 APEX LTX fully clipped I just wanted some of your input Guys that have bean running them...

Everything has up's and down's, I heard more of ggod than bad and how are the studs holding in, are they durable and how is the track performing in loose stuff, I run lakes and groomed trails mostly.

Thanks

 

[welterracer]

there was a few guys who installed them last year... i think they said they were a good track, but the little studs that are in them were not enought fro the high HP of this sled..

If you are just a trail cruiser who normally doesnt stud his sled, this would be a great track.. its purpose is just for a little added safety on icy corners..

 

[RX1-er-2005]

there was a few guys who installed them last year... i think they said they were a good track, but the little studs that are in them were not enought fro the high HP of this sled..

If you are just a trail cruiser who normally doesnt stud his sled, this would be a great track.. its purpose is just for a little added safety on icy corners..

Yes its exactly what I'm looking for, how are those little studs responding to abuse and wear is what I'd like to know, will they last the life of the track?

 

[Yamaholic22]

That is something that HIGHLY depends on riding conditions and riding style. You could be from middle of Canada and never see dirt or rocks on trails and ride with a steady thumb and easily make them last the life of the track, but if you are from the southern midwest and make a trip or two a year and are a throttle jockey that likes to see sparks across roads the studs wont last a year. Point is there is HUGE variability in possible miles it will hold up for, but yes they are a quality track with quality studs for a little extra safety traction.

 

[schmeg]

You won't get the hookup with that track like you will with good ol' studs. Additionally, When the traction product is located in the end of the paddle, the torque exerted by exceleration/deceleration is transmitted through the paddle causing more deflection than a bare paddle. This puts more stress on the paddle. I have seen a couple cases of paddles tearing out. I'm sure there are a lot of satisfies customers with these tracks, but for good hookup which these sleds lack anyway, if you want to change the track, go with a 1" predator 6 pitch and stud it with plenty of 1.175" er's or go the other way with a 1.5" paddle and no studs. IMO. Jay

 

[Superman]

I agree Yamaholic22. I say it depends on where and how you ride.

 

[KnappAttack]

I'm going to put them on our two stock Attak's this year. I will not run them fully clipped however. Only the way they come clipped every third. I'm done studding and having the topend loss, and the vibration with std studs on a trail sled. Ice Ripper is fine for a trail sled.

 

[RX1-er-2005]

QUOTE:KnappAttack
I will not run them fully clipped however. Only the way they come clipped every third.

Why not fully clipped, my buddy fully clipped his and has seen some big improvement on HYFAX wear and heat build up...

 

[snappy]

put one on my attak gt last season 2500 miles still like new.its a great comprimise between studs and no studs.more for saftey than performance.

 

[Fergie]

over 2000 miles on my attak with no major wear. it sounds perfect for what you're looking for. & KnappAttack check with them because i thought he said they were going to offer a fully clipped one this year.

 

[BIG BLACK WARRIOR]

I had the ice ripper 2 winters ago on an RX-1. Put on 3,500 miles. No problems. I run a sled hard and weigh 255 lbs. Good for braking, and icy corners, but not for lake racing. Bought a new Rage last winter so I am running the stock track, studded with 162 studs, but when that track tears apart do to the studs, and it will soon, I will buy a new ice ripper for it. an added bonus of the ice ripper is you wouldn't put a stud thru your cheap flimmsy front heat exchanger that Yamaha uses. Been there done that.

 

[BETHEVIPER]

i had one and they will never be in anything i own again, if i bought a sled with them, i would remove them and stud the track.

little to no noticable traction on glare ice. not even as much as 96 studs.

after 500mls, i took it off and had it warrentied. studs were cutting the sides of the lugs at the middle, on about half of them were started, many were cut in half or missing.

nothing beats a 9830 with 168 studs, outside pattern

 

[pro116]

betherviper you had one of the originals.I fogot the exact # but the fist batch they had where junk and the rest where good after that.

I'm putting one on also this year.

 

[RX1-er-2005]

over 2000 miles on my attak with no major wear. it sounds perfect for what you're looking for. & KnappAttack check with them because i thought he said they were going to offer a fully clipped one this year.

Yes, the part # is 9059H (136") its fully clipped and revised studs, they stick out more by.080 for better traction on hard packed surfaces...

Thanks guys for your input, I think I'll try 1, I'm not a STUD fan but this I think is RAD and IDLER WHEEL safe!

More and more of our winters are getting milder which = ICE, specialy in corners so just that little EXTRA traction...

 

[KnappAttack]

We have to fully clip the turbo sleds and run ski-doo extros. I notice increased drag and decreased hyfax life being fully clipped. No, they aren't wearing out due to turbo running faster speeds. Same speed on trails running right along stockers with stock tracks. Fully clipped sled smells of burning plastic and dragging very hard, stocker smelling like burning rubber and dragging much less. Fully clipped wears out slides much faster. They are not better on a Yamaha. I think every third window closed holds some water or snow better. Maybe the factory engineers aren't so crazy after all. Full clipped also adds weight, 2-3 lbs.