Rockwell5
Veteran
Now I noticed a problem. .The seal on stator side meaning the stub shift that drives the charger is leaking oil..anyone ever been into these? ..I'm sure I can pull that side off right there my biggest question is where do I get a seal? and are they common to leak? Seems to be ok when running engine and leaks affter u shut it off..and also it goes into a low idle and stall sometimes....maybe just need a good cleaning out on the throttle and plugs help that or is there another fix?..thanks for any help!
nate007
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You might try posting a little bit more about your sled in your signature, which might help figure out your issues a little better.
What s/c kit are you running, what controller and on what sled, etc, etc.
As far as the seal, if youre in a pinch, you can try removing the entire seal housing (so you don't damage the seal for now) and try a local auto parts store, or bearing house. Someone shoud be able to cross it to something and get you taken care of however...
It doesn't really sound like it's the seal thats leaking. it may be the threads on the aluminum housing that screws in from the back side of the cover. There should be an o-ring at the base of the threads on the male side, and it sounds like that might be the culprit since it's not leaking while running.
Also check the torque on the stub shaft bolt, and possibly put some thread sealant (ARP or locktite) on the threads, or around the bolt head/washer. The bolt is drilled with an oil passageway, and if there's anychance the bolt could be a little loose, you could get oil out from around the bolt head as well since there's pressurized oil within the center of the stubshaft. Not likely, but something to check, especially if you remove the oil seal anyway.
If you're just running the PCIII with no other additions, and depending on your s/c setup, you may have to try to increase your idle speed slightly to compensate for the s/c load at idle.
Depending on what scenarios you're encountering when it goes into low idle (decel, flipping the throttle, startup, hot/cold motor, etc) could mean there may be a few adjustments you could make to your t/b's to help, but..
Depending on what sled you have there's a few other things to try as well, but post some more info please.
What s/c kit are you running, what controller and on what sled, etc, etc.
As far as the seal, if youre in a pinch, you can try removing the entire seal housing (so you don't damage the seal for now) and try a local auto parts store, or bearing house. Someone shoud be able to cross it to something and get you taken care of however...
It doesn't really sound like it's the seal thats leaking. it may be the threads on the aluminum housing that screws in from the back side of the cover. There should be an o-ring at the base of the threads on the male side, and it sounds like that might be the culprit since it's not leaking while running.
Also check the torque on the stub shaft bolt, and possibly put some thread sealant (ARP or locktite) on the threads, or around the bolt head/washer. The bolt is drilled with an oil passageway, and if there's anychance the bolt could be a little loose, you could get oil out from around the bolt head as well since there's pressurized oil within the center of the stubshaft. Not likely, but something to check, especially if you remove the oil seal anyway.
If you're just running the PCIII with no other additions, and depending on your s/c setup, you may have to try to increase your idle speed slightly to compensate for the s/c load at idle.
Depending on what scenarios you're encountering when it goes into low idle (decel, flipping the throttle, startup, hot/cold motor, etc) could mean there may be a few adjustments you could make to your t/b's to help, but..
Depending on what sled you have there's a few other things to try as well, but post some more info please.
Rockwell5
Veteran
Oops sorry it's an 06 apex gt ..mpi s/c..pcv with auto tune..it goes into the low idle stall when u flip the throttle..I've tried adjusting idle up but don't seem to make much diff..
As for oill leak I removed mag side to find seal lip to be torn..managed to find one at local industrial supply store ..no dealers anywhere had a new gasket for stator cover so had to reuse ..i put a product called permatex 518 gasket maker on it with old gasket also and buttoned er up..hopefully wont leak..run it around yard for 15 min and allgood so far..no fun when u dont have proper stuff to work with...hopefully it good we having another storm here today 12-14"..cant wait to try er out
As for oill leak I removed mag side to find seal lip to be torn..managed to find one at local industrial supply store ..no dealers anywhere had a new gasket for stator cover so had to reuse ..i put a product called permatex 518 gasket maker on it with old gasket also and buttoned er up..hopefully wont leak..run it around yard for 15 min and allgood so far..no fun when u dont have proper stuff to work with...hopefully it good we having another storm here today 12-14"..cant wait to try er out
nate007
Lifetime Member
- Joined
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- Iowa City, Iowa
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 1. '06 Apex -twin screw
2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
3. '09 Nytro XTX - twin screw
Idle issues can be a little tough to diagnose, so the best thing to do is to make sure your throttle bodies are balanced properly. You'll need a vacuum gauge to do that, and probably need to remove your intercooler to be sure you're getting accurate readings.
There is a little bit of extra load on the motor from turning the s/c, and it could be a number of things that could be causing it.
I'll assume that you've turned the black screw that's accessible through the hole on the left side of the headlight bracket?
A few other things to check:
1. Take the sc belt off and turn it by hand. It should be somewhat stiff to turn, but not overy difficult. MPI can probably help with the info on how hard it should be, but you might be able to tell if there's a bearing not spinning as freely as it should. Likewise with the ilder pulley.
2. Condition of your plugs. Old plugs will develop a weaker spark, which will result in less power at idle, and you may notice lower afr's at idle as well. Make sure they're gapped correctly too, per MPI's specs.
3. I don't have the instructions in front of me, but I think they're still on Ulmers site, but you can adjust your idle mixtures through the gauge panel if your afr's seem too high or low at idle. I had to lean my Apex out a bit at idle to clear up the same issues a few years ago. I know you have to ground a pin on the Delta Box connector (on the frame above the primary clutch), and scroll through the screen and adjust each cyl.
4. I haven't had a PCIII for a few years, and I might be a bit rusty on the settings for those, but make sure you're not making any fuel of timing adjustments below clutch engagement speed. If you're adding fuel down low, it could just be too rich to stay running.
There is a little bit of extra load on the motor from turning the s/c, and it could be a number of things that could be causing it.
I'll assume that you've turned the black screw that's accessible through the hole on the left side of the headlight bracket?
A few other things to check:
1. Take the sc belt off and turn it by hand. It should be somewhat stiff to turn, but not overy difficult. MPI can probably help with the info on how hard it should be, but you might be able to tell if there's a bearing not spinning as freely as it should. Likewise with the ilder pulley.
2. Condition of your plugs. Old plugs will develop a weaker spark, which will result in less power at idle, and you may notice lower afr's at idle as well. Make sure they're gapped correctly too, per MPI's specs.
3. I don't have the instructions in front of me, but I think they're still on Ulmers site, but you can adjust your idle mixtures through the gauge panel if your afr's seem too high or low at idle. I had to lean my Apex out a bit at idle to clear up the same issues a few years ago. I know you have to ground a pin on the Delta Box connector (on the frame above the primary clutch), and scroll through the screen and adjust each cyl.
4. I haven't had a PCIII for a few years, and I might be a bit rusty on the settings for those, but make sure you're not making any fuel of timing adjustments below clutch engagement speed. If you're adding fuel down low, it could just be too rich to stay running.
