QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
It's not true that the alternator will provide enough power. That would make sense, but it is not reality. Yes, the dealer went through everything and the problem was simply that the battery was not fully charged to begin with. The sled generated enough power to run and MAINTAIN a charge, but not enough to charge a depleted battery and run the sled at the same time. Maybe if you unplugged the headlights, didn't use the hand and thumb warmers or heated shield it may be able to keep up.
stevenknapp
Extreme
didn't use the hand and thumb warmers or heated shield it may be able to keep up.
When it wouldn't keep up did you have all this going?
When it wouldn't keep up did you have all this going?
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
stevenknapp said:
Light, Hand warmers, and Thumb warmer, yes. No shield. It wouldn't even stay running at idle. I had no idea it was electrical at the time. It made no sense. There was enough power to start the sled, but not enough to keep it running.
az99
Pro
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2004
- Messages
- 186
Now that you said it would start but not keep running, I will again go with my opinion there is something wrong with the alternator or other charging system component. The ignition system draw at idle is a fraction of the draw to spin over the motor. The battery is used to store enough energy to spin the starter. Once started the alternator should be producing more than enough power to keep it running,power all accessories and recharge the battery to full for the next start up.
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
az99, at first I had the same thougths as you, but as you can see by this thread from January, it simply is not the case. The stator on these sleds is under rated. In other words, it's not big enough.
http://www.rx1.info/viewtopic.php?t=979 ... or&start=0
http://www.rx1.info/viewtopic.php?t=979 ... or&start=0
az99
Pro
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2004
- Messages
- 186
QC Rider - I remember reading that. But I do not believe everything I read on the internet. HaHa
I stick to my earlier statements. But just in case I was wrong I tried it. I started the sled(2005 Vector) and disconnected the battery completely. It's still running and headlight is on. It revs up fine and is idiling fine. The headlight flickers slightly at idle which would be expected as I have the idle speed at 1200RPM and the battery acts as a voltage buffer.
There is no way a charging system can produce enough power to run all those accessories but still not have enough to fire the ignition. If the charging system was that weak every time you ride with all acc. on you would be draining the battery and not recharging from the last startup.
I am not trying to be a smart a-- or know it all , just telling what it right and what is BS.
Hopefully you will not have any further problems, whatever the cause was.
But back to the original topic, I do not know if it will pull start and I am not big enough to even think about trying it. I do carry a piece of nylon strap along. Maybe 2 of us could pull it as a last ditch attempt.
I stick to my earlier statements. But just in case I was wrong I tried it. I started the sled(2005 Vector) and disconnected the battery completely. It's still running and headlight is on. It revs up fine and is idiling fine. The headlight flickers slightly at idle which would be expected as I have the idle speed at 1200RPM and the battery acts as a voltage buffer.
There is no way a charging system can produce enough power to run all those accessories but still not have enough to fire the ignition. If the charging system was that weak every time you ride with all acc. on you would be draining the battery and not recharging from the last startup.
I am not trying to be a smart a-- or know it all , just telling what it right and what is BS.
Hopefully you will not have any further problems, whatever the cause was.
But back to the original topic, I do not know if it will pull start and I am not big enough to even think about trying it. I do carry a piece of nylon strap along. Maybe 2 of us could pull it as a last ditch attempt.
towing
Expert
hi guys
For your infomation on the charging system of all the RS serie, the A.C, magneto produce 420 Watts at 5000 R/min (from the service manual)
To give you an idea, your both headlights drain a total of 120w, the others lights less than 10w , the hands warmer at the highest setting drain less than 40watts for a total of 170watts. So, we have a 250watts to feed the rest of the system (ignition and all sensors + instrumentation and recharge the batterie) It is really more than needed so it should run without problem .
For Qcrider, the problem you had was propably little more complicated than a discharged battery. It is possible that your battery goes bad and act as a power drain item rather than just store power and load enough the charging system to get the system voltage too low to keep the ignition alive... the threshold voltage for an electronic ignition is generaly between 8 to 10 volts. Below that, the ignition system will simply stay off.
It is also possible that your electrical wiring develop an "hard to find" short to the frame that was solve when your dealer search for it and move the electrical harness without finding the exact cause...
the good thing is that your problem is solved
for trying a pull start, i will certainly try but propably the next season... it seems to be over for this one
Bye
Alain
For your infomation on the charging system of all the RS serie, the A.C, magneto produce 420 Watts at 5000 R/min (from the service manual)
To give you an idea, your both headlights drain a total of 120w, the others lights less than 10w , the hands warmer at the highest setting drain less than 40watts for a total of 170watts. So, we have a 250watts to feed the rest of the system (ignition and all sensors + instrumentation and recharge the batterie) It is really more than needed so it should run without problem .
For Qcrider, the problem you had was propably little more complicated than a discharged battery. It is possible that your battery goes bad and act as a power drain item rather than just store power and load enough the charging system to get the system voltage too low to keep the ignition alive... the threshold voltage for an electronic ignition is generaly between 8 to 10 volts. Below that, the ignition system will simply stay off.
It is also possible that your electrical wiring develop an "hard to find" short to the frame that was solve when your dealer search for it and move the electrical harness without finding the exact cause...
the good thing is that your problem is solved
for trying a pull start, i will certainly try but propably the next season... it seems to be over for this one
Bye
Alain
stevenknapp
Extreme
produce 420 Watts at 5000 R/min
But much less at idle.
I could see if you had all the grip warmers on and all that the sled not being able to sustain itself.
But much less at idle.
I could see if you had all the grip warmers on and all that the sled not being able to sustain itself.
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
az99 said:
Running with the Battery disconnected is MUCH different than leaving a severely discharged battery connected as far as load is concerned. I'm glad you tested this though because I was going to do the same test, just so I would know if I can make it back home with a dead battery.
If you guys don't believe me that this sled will not run with a dead battery, all I can say is that I hope you never find out the truth. The truth is that it cannot, period. There is nothing else wrong with the sled, in fact once the dealer put a fully charged battery in it we had no other problems all season.
Ask you dealer about this, mine did not know this, but the Yamaha Rep sure did.
