Well E 2 is a code for an open in the O2 sensor.The locking tab for the connector was hung up allowing the plug to become disconnected.
It is now locked and secured. Fired up the sled. AFR reading was 40 at idle. Burped the throttle and saw it drop down to 12 for a second.
Went for a test ride. Sled ran fairly decent thru to 3/4 throttle and up 10k rpm for the first 8 miles or so. AFR was between 11 and 13. After that it slowly got worse. 8k was the highest it would rev and it would buck and fart when applying more than half throttle. AFR would show 50 when it bogged. Set the controller as per the link above as per Simmons posted numbers.
No better or worse. If I strayed from the numbers he posted it got alot worse. Runs extremely lean. Around 15-17 when in the green zone. When it goes to yellow or red it bogs. AFR reads 50. Almost sent me over the bars.
Using
2.5
2.5
5
5
5
2
Anyone have a wiring diagram so that i can double check the way it is wired in?
It is now locked and secured. Fired up the sled. AFR reading was 40 at idle. Burped the throttle and saw it drop down to 12 for a second.
Went for a test ride. Sled ran fairly decent thru to 3/4 throttle and up 10k rpm for the first 8 miles or so. AFR was between 11 and 13. After that it slowly got worse. 8k was the highest it would rev and it would buck and fart when applying more than half throttle. AFR would show 50 when it bogged. Set the controller as per the link above as per Simmons posted numbers.
No better or worse. If I strayed from the numbers he posted it got alot worse. Runs extremely lean. Around 15-17 when in the green zone. When it goes to yellow or red it bogs. AFR reads 50. Almost sent me over the bars.
Using
2.5
2.5
5
5
5
2
Anyone have a wiring diagram so that i can double check the way it is wired in?
Boost signal line from manifold to IC is in good shape/no possible leaks?
I shall check that tomorrow.
Just read what I wrote earlier and it doesn't really make sense!
What I meant was the boost signal line to the fuel controller from the intake/intercooler.
What I meant was the boost signal line to the fuel controller from the intake/intercooler.
Also, check that the IC hasn't popped off. Jeff never included a BOV with his kit, and the Apex is prone to popping the IC off (partly due to the angle of the throttle bodies).
Check the line going to the IC. Was connected. Rerouted just for fun to ensure it would not get pinched. Checked the IC boots to the TB's. Solid connection there as well.
Would I be better off changing the fuel controller. The owner has access to a PCV and timing module? If so where would one get the mapping for them?
Would I be better off changing the fuel controller. The owner has access to a PCV and timing module? If so where would one get the mapping for them?
These fuel controllers were not without their problems back in the day, so it is worth considering a swap out just for the purposes of troubleshooting. That said, it would make a lot more sense to swap in a known good controller. I'm pretty sure I have access to a good CPR controller I can get to you to try out. Wouldn't be able to hook you up until Thursday though, and it looks like you'll be on the TY ride by then.
Let me know if you want, and we can work out the details...
Let me know if you want, and we can work out the details...
Reading post about these controllers apparently CPR had their own special Pure Logic box which worked differently than the typical ones.
I don't understand completely all the settings and how they interact. I tried running the green, yellow and red (1, 2, and 3) richer or higher numbers than posted. Still runs lean according to the AFR
Now green/ blue, yellow/blue and red/blue or 4, 5 and 6 are when 1,2 and 3 kick in. So does the lower the setting mean they kick in sooner or later? Either way nothing seemed to make it better.
The CPR website that still can be found is not current anymore. Have not tried calling them for if the website is dead maybe they are not around anymore.
Fixing the oil issue on this once known good running sled has turned into a lot more work than I have ever anticipated. I don't mind learning but my head is starting to hurt now.
If you would have time to see this sled that would be awesome.
I don't understand completely all the settings and how they interact. I tried running the green, yellow and red (1, 2, and 3) richer or higher numbers than posted. Still runs lean according to the AFR
Now green/ blue, yellow/blue and red/blue or 4, 5 and 6 are when 1,2 and 3 kick in. So does the lower the setting mean they kick in sooner or later? Either way nothing seemed to make it better.
The CPR website that still can be found is not current anymore. Have not tried calling them for if the website is dead maybe they are not around anymore.
Fixing the oil issue on this once known good running sled has turned into a lot more work than I have ever anticipated. I don't mind learning but my head is starting to hurt now.
If you would have time to see this sled that would be awesome.
Settings 1, 2, 3 & 4 as listed previously are 'quantity' - the higher the setting, the more fuel is added on the circuit. Settings 5, 6 are 'sensitivity' - the lower the setting, the earlier that circuit will be engaged.
If you haven't noticed yet, the controller will always indicate the active circuit when you are driving (ex. you are on the red, yellow, green circuit etc.). If you glance between a/f gauge and the controller when riding, you will get an idea of what circuit is doing what...
I'm happy to give the sled another set of eyes. Pretty much any evening is ok - let me know what works.
If you haven't noticed yet, the controller will always indicate the active circuit when you are driving (ex. you are on the red, yellow, green circuit etc.). If you glance between a/f gauge and the controller when riding, you will get an idea of what circuit is doing what...
I'm happy to give the sled another set of eyes. Pretty much any evening is ok - let me know what works.
OK. I will PM you next week. Sled is back in the trailer for now and on my way to the TY tomorrow till the weekend.
Was talking with Mr Sled and another turbo sled owner about this sled's issues on the weekend. They are leaning to maybe a bad O2 sensor. I do get AFR numbers but they may be incorrect if the sensor is bad.
It did have to contend with a lot of oil. In the 5 minutes that I first had it running the tunnel extension was full of oil from the exhaust outlets. I did remove it and clean it up with Brake Kleen but maybe that is not enough.
What type of O2 sensor would I need to get? The one in there is a 4 wire lead to a square connector. Looks kind of typical of an automotive application.
It did have to contend with a lot of oil. In the 5 minutes that I first had it running the tunnel extension was full of oil from the exhaust outlets. I did remove it and clean it up with Brake Kleen but maybe that is not enough.
What type of O2 sensor would I need to get? The one in there is a 4 wire lead to a square connector. Looks kind of typical of an automotive application.
