03griz
Pro
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
This is a response I put in to another thread on same subject:
I installed an electric gauge. You can tap into the head light for the instrument light. That way it is already switched on and off as needed. Then I tapped into the ignition wires near the fuse box (i.e. simple splice.) for the instrument's power. That way it is on only when your running the engine. Otherwise if you connect to the battery, it needs its own switch.
For the sensor, I took a 1" metal hose coupling, shortened it about 1" on each end, and welded in the center a 1/8" NPT 1/2 coupling. Then I installed that in the hose that comes from the engine to the thremostat. You have to make sure to get all of the galvinizing off before welding. I have about 400 miles on this arrangement w/o a problem. There is a guy that has a hoze connection that looks slick. However, it will not take most sensors, only shallow sensors on certain digital gauges.
You do need to get as small as gauge as possible. It is really tough to get a 2" gauge in the dash. Also, be really careful locating the hole. Make sure you have enough space behide the dash to accomodate the guage, the guages connectors and the gauge retaining bracket. I ended up making a metal plate out of some heavy shim stock, cutting the hole very tight to the gauge and fastening the plate to the dash with screws. There was just no way I could get the gauge and the retainer in place.
Good luck. This can be a bg job, if your in a hurry to get back on the trail. This is best done in the summer.
I installed an electric gauge. You can tap into the head light for the instrument light. That way it is already switched on and off as needed. Then I tapped into the ignition wires near the fuse box (i.e. simple splice.) for the instrument's power. That way it is on only when your running the engine. Otherwise if you connect to the battery, it needs its own switch.
For the sensor, I took a 1" metal hose coupling, shortened it about 1" on each end, and welded in the center a 1/8" NPT 1/2 coupling. Then I installed that in the hose that comes from the engine to the thremostat. You have to make sure to get all of the galvinizing off before welding. I have about 400 miles on this arrangement w/o a problem. There is a guy that has a hoze connection that looks slick. However, it will not take most sensors, only shallow sensors on certain digital gauges.
You do need to get as small as gauge as possible. It is really tough to get a 2" gauge in the dash. Also, be really careful locating the hole. Make sure you have enough space behide the dash to accomodate the guage, the guages connectors and the gauge retaining bracket. I ended up making a metal plate out of some heavy shim stock, cutting the hole very tight to the gauge and fastening the plate to the dash with screws. There was just no way I could get the gauge and the retainer in place.
Good luck. This can be a bg job, if your in a hurry to get back on the trail. This is best done in the summer.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Now about running temps
I run on, my guage (aren't they all rather relative,) 170-175 degrees F while crusing 50-70 mph, in normal conditions. When I am hammering er, it will run up to 195 degress F, in normal conditions. Normal conditons = < 30 degress F Air Temp, normal BP and snow hitting the Rads.
Without snow hitting the Rads, it will go up to 200 degrees F. My light turns on at ~ 215 Degrees. Although, I have only seen the light once before (other than the time I forced it to light during during my post-installation testing).
Some interesting notes include:
On a well groomed trail that has taken a set, the temp runs right up to 190 - 200 degrees F, even while crusing. I suspect that no snow is hitting the Rads. Normally, I would be thinking that there would be enough snow on the trail, so why the temp increase? But this is consistent. (i.e. a well groomed trail = higher coolant temps no matter how much base there is.)
Also, while cruising, snow placed on one running board, will run the temps right back down to 170 degrees F, even if you are on that hard packed well groomed trail. Also, if you are hittin' er hard, snow on both running boards drops it right back down to 170 degrees F. So, if conditions are bad, throw some snow on the running boards now and then.
I have stock 04 Rx-1 with 1 1/4" Ice Ripper track and nearly still stock 100% anti-freeze. This weekend, I plan to dilute the mixture a bit and add water wetter. Then If I get back up to the UP, I'll run some more tests.
While the gauge's installation was a pain in the butt, the knowledge gained by putting in the guage MAY be worth it. At the very least, I understand better what the varying conditions can do to the coolant temps.
I run on, my guage (aren't they all rather relative,) 170-175 degrees F while crusing 50-70 mph, in normal conditions. When I am hammering er, it will run up to 195 degress F, in normal conditions. Normal conditons = < 30 degress F Air Temp, normal BP and snow hitting the Rads.
Without snow hitting the Rads, it will go up to 200 degrees F. My light turns on at ~ 215 Degrees. Although, I have only seen the light once before (other than the time I forced it to light during during my post-installation testing).
Some interesting notes include:
On a well groomed trail that has taken a set, the temp runs right up to 190 - 200 degrees F, even while crusing. I suspect that no snow is hitting the Rads. Normally, I would be thinking that there would be enough snow on the trail, so why the temp increase? But this is consistent. (i.e. a well groomed trail = higher coolant temps no matter how much base there is.)
Also, while cruising, snow placed on one running board, will run the temps right back down to 170 degrees F, even if you are on that hard packed well groomed trail. Also, if you are hittin' er hard, snow on both running boards drops it right back down to 170 degrees F. So, if conditions are bad, throw some snow on the running boards now and then.
I have stock 04 Rx-1 with 1 1/4" Ice Ripper track and nearly still stock 100% anti-freeze. This weekend, I plan to dilute the mixture a bit and add water wetter. Then If I get back up to the UP, I'll run some more tests.
While the gauge's installation was a pain in the butt, the knowledge gained by putting in the guage MAY be worth it. At the very least, I understand better what the varying conditions can do to the coolant temps.
