Saul makinen
Newbie
After running the VIN I found that I have a 2003 Yamaha RX10m, and I have some questions is that correct? ( pictures attached), what is the TPS? Cause I read that that can cause my warning light
And the final question on this post. What do I need to remount my gauge/instrument panel? I have a picture of what others look like and what mine looks like if you guys could give me any info it will greatly be appreciated. Cause this machine is new to me and has been sitting for over 15 years, but it fired right up after replacing fuel hose, and impulse hose. The black Yamaha is mine.
And the final question on this post. What do I need to remount my gauge/instrument panel? I have a picture of what others look like and what mine looks like if you guys could give me any info it will greatly be appreciated. Cause this machine is new to me and has been sitting for over 15 years, but it fired right up after replacing fuel hose, and impulse hose. The black Yamaha is mine.
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Brotherdan
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- 2011 apex xtx blue, starr suspension,gytr front shocks,camso 1.5 track cut down, snowtrackers work in process,2003 rx1er originally 121 converted to 136"monoshock 2 ck136 rear suspension with clicker vector ltx shock,muffin works tunnel extension, seat concepts(wrp) seat,apex hooked handlebars converted to all underhood wiring,8"lake effect billet aluminum riser,gytr frontshocks,yamaheater hand warmer kit,rocks ridelite,rocks power supply, rocks heated bag,, tunnel braces,blue skid plate,garmin gps, aggressive snowtrackers on apex single keel skis,rollerski ski wheel kit,108 warthog studs&blue studboy backers,pioneer wheel lowering kit, dupont slides, 4th wheel kit,yamaha saddle, tank& windshield bags, powermadd led handguards, bar mount mirror kit, apex radiator& electric fan added, apex rear cooler,autometer temp guage, apex new style large diameter drive shaft with extroverts machined for chaincase,thunder products clutching,1987 enticer 340ltr 2100miles,1984 enticer 340,1996 wolverine 350,big wheel kit,winch,racks,k&n,full skidplates
Yes it is an rx1 mountain,you will need a guage mounting panel that is completely missing to attach your speedometer to,you stated the machine has been sitting 15years??Did you only change rubber fuel hoses?If you have running issues or warning lights we would need to help you diagnose,does the machine run smooth & revs fully without bogging?let me know I can help you & am very familiar with this machine & still currently own& run one along with a newer apexAfter running the VIN I found that I have a 2003 Yamaha RX10m, and I have some questions is that correct? ( pictures attached), what is the TPS? Cause I read that that can cause my warning light
And the final question on this post. What do I need to remount my gauge/instrument panel? I have a picture of what others look like and what mine looks like if you guys could give me any info it will greatly be appreciated. Cause this machine is new to me and has been sitting for over 15 years, but it fired right up after replacing fuel hose, and impulse hose. The black Yamaha is mine.
Saul makinen
Newbie
for the most part, it runs and revs fine. It wants to idle at about 1100rpm. when it is idling my primary clutch makes a grinding noise, but it goes away when I rev it above 1500rpm. I have only replaced the fuel line and impulse line, I plan to replace the noticeable parts that affect its performance and driveability. most of the other rubber products are in good condition because it was sitting in a wet area. It bogs a little when I first start it up and try to rev it, but that's because of old gas, I think, I am used to a 1996 Polaris Indy XLT RMK so I am probably not doing something right.Yes it is an rx1 mountain,you will need a guage mounting panel that is completely missing to attach your speedometer to,you stated the machine has been sitting 15years??Did you only change rubber fuel hoses?If you have running issues or warning lights we would need to help you diagnose,does the machine run smooth & revs fully without bogging?let me know I can help you & am very familiar with this machine & still currently own& run one along with a newer apex
Saul makinen
Newbie
What does the warning light flashing twice mean?
Last edited:
Brotherdan
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- 2011 apex xtx blue, starr suspension,gytr front shocks,camso 1.5 track cut down, snowtrackers work in process,2003 rx1er originally 121 converted to 136"monoshock 2 ck136 rear suspension with clicker vector ltx shock,muffin works tunnel extension, seat concepts(wrp) seat,apex hooked handlebars converted to all underhood wiring,8"lake effect billet aluminum riser,gytr frontshocks,yamaheater hand warmer kit,rocks ridelite,rocks power supply, rocks heated bag,, tunnel braces,blue skid plate,garmin gps, aggressive snowtrackers on apex single keel skis,rollerski ski wheel kit,108 warthog studs&blue studboy backers,pioneer wheel lowering kit, dupont slides, 4th wheel kit,yamaha saddle, tank& windshield bags, powermadd led handguards, bar mount mirror kit, apex radiator& electric fan added, apex rear cooler,autometer temp guage, apex new style large diameter drive shaft with extroverts machined for chaincase,thunder products clutching,1987 enticer 340ltr 2100miles,1984 enticer 340,1996 wolverine 350,big wheel kit,winch,racks,k&n,full skidplates
If you increase the idle speed it will help eliminate the clutch rattling,there’s a99% chance that you will have to disassemble & clean the carburetors,these engines have very small jets in the carbs & you will find old fuel combined with plugged jets will be the problem with almost all of your engine problems,you can leave the rack of carbs hooked to the machine & remove the float bowls 1 at a time & clean them,anyone who has ever owned one of these has usually dealt with this,make sure if you do the carbs yourself that you don’t mix up the jetsWhat does the warning light flashing twice mean?
Saul makinen
Newbie
Ok thank you for the info. You have been very helpful.If you increase the idle speed it will help eliminate the clutch rattling,there’s a99% chance that you will have to disassemble & clean the carburetors,these engines have very small jets in the carbs & you will find old fuel combined with plugged jets will be the problem with almost all of your engine problems,you can leave the rack of carbs hooked to the machine & remove the float bowls 1 at a time & clean them,anyone who has ever owned one of these has usually dealt with this,make sure if you do the carbs yourself that you don’t mix up the jets
RobX-1
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The nice thing with the gauge mounting panel is that Kimplex also makes them so you can either try getting a used one or an aftermarket one before paying OEM pricing. Also keep in mind that you will need the two side panels; and yes Kimplex makes them as well:
As for the carbs, @Brotherdan is probably right about the carbs needing to be cleaned as the jets are easily clogged. Although you can leave the carb rack connected, I always opted to remove the rack and do this on a bench as you only need a couple hose clamps to clamp off the two coolant lines connected to the carb rack. As for the two fuel lines, I just disconnect the lines at the fuel pumps and then there are four individual spaded wire connector to each carb that has to be disconnected as well. For some, it's just easier leaving everything connected and removing the float bowls to gain access to the jets. Which ever method is used, just make sure you don't mix up the two jets as they are very similar:
As for the carbs, @Brotherdan is probably right about the carbs needing to be cleaned as the jets are easily clogged. Although you can leave the carb rack connected, I always opted to remove the rack and do this on a bench as you only need a couple hose clamps to clamp off the two coolant lines connected to the carb rack. As for the two fuel lines, I just disconnect the lines at the fuel pumps and then there are four individual spaded wire connector to each carb that has to be disconnected as well. For some, it's just easier leaving everything connected and removing the float bowls to gain access to the jets. Which ever method is used, just make sure you don't mix up the two jets as they are very similar:
Saul makinen
Newbie
thank you for the pictures. I have ordered the gauge mounting panel but I didn't know I needed the side ones, thank you. I have rebuilt carbs before but is there anything else I need to know about these carbs. And are they carbs or TBI?The nice thing with the gauge mounting panel is that Kimplex also makes them so you can either try getting a used one or an aftermarket one before paying OEM pricing. Also keep in mind that you will need the two side panels; and yes Kimplex makes them as well:
View attachment 176521
As for the carbs, @Brotherdan is probably right about the carbs needing to be cleaned as the jets are easily clogged. Although you can leave the carb rack connected, I always opted to remove the rack and do this on a bench as you only need a couple hose clamps to clamp off the two coolant lines connected to the carb rack. As for the two fuel lines, I just disconnect the lines at the fuel pumps and then there are four individual spaded wire connector to each carb that has to be disconnected as well. For some, it's just easier leaving everything connected and removing the float bowls to gain access to the jets. Which ever method is used, just make sure you don't mix up the two jets as they are very similar:
View attachment 176522
Last edited:
RobX-1
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Not really other than just pointing out that the two long cylinder-like jets also have very small orifices on the sides that you will also want to ensure are clogged-free. I have a mercury carb sync tool that I also like to use once everything is reassembled but I know others that don't.
As for your question about these being carbs or TBI, I'm not sure what you mean but the RX-1 is not fuel injected.
As for your question about these being carbs or TBI, I'm not sure what you mean but the RX-1 is not fuel injected.
Saul makinen
Newbie
Okay. I'm a bit of a truck mechanic so TBI means throttle body injected. I was just wondering why these carbs don't look like other standard mikuni carbs I've seen.Not really other than just pointing out that the two long cylinder-like jets also have very small orifices on the sides that you will also want to ensure are clogged-free. I have a mercury carb sync tool that I also like to use once everything is reassembled but I know others that don't.
As for your question about these being carbs or TBI, I'm not sure what you mean but the RX-1 is not fuel injected.
Last edited:
Stubbs
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The flour holer started out life as a bike motor so it uses CV style carbs instead of the traditional Mikuni VM/TM units normally used on a sled. Welcome to the world of carbureted four stroke Yammy’s.
Saul makinen
Newbie
Ok. I have never had a Yamaha or a four stroke so that is definitely different.i am very happy with this forum. And thank you for replying.
Saul makinen
Newbie
So i replaced spark plugs and it runs way better, idles proper with only a little stutter. It also revs up fine, but I still have a engine light flashing. It flashes on twice a then off for a little bit then two more flashes, etc... what does that mean? I have not torn my carbs down yet but I did send techron through the system. .
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RobX-1
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By that flash sequence, sounds like you have a short in your grip warmers. Do they both work and get warm?
Saul makinen
Newbie
I do not know I haven't tested them yet. Are they easy to get and replace? I will test them as soon as possible now that I know what the light means.By that flash sequence, sounds like you have a short in your grip warmers. Do they both work and get warm?
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