streetfighter
Newbie
- Joined
- May 2, 2005
- Messages
- 10
Hey guy's I'm kinda new to all this computer stuff , but not to ATV's. I've got a 2005 grizzly with a few mods like white bros. pipe,K&N filter and jet kit, EPI clutch kit , Hot cam. and 26" mud lites. The bike is awesome, but the extra torque has caused some headaches. The rear fixed sheave of my primary clutch has sheared the splines off. My dealer told me that this is caused by the extra torque. I was told another customer has had the same problem. Have you guys got any suggestions for a solution, or an aftermarket clutch sheave that might be available.I was always told to go big or go home. I was contuplating put in a 727 bigbore kit but now i'm lost.
grizz 5
Extreme
i've never heard of the splines shearing off unless the nut on the clutch was not torqued down.
I have broken everything else (axle,cvs and driveshaft) but never splines on the clutch
I have broken everything else (axle,cvs and driveshaft) but never splines on the clutch
Grizzhopper
Extreme
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2004
- Messages
- 85
- Location
- Black Hills of Wyoming
- Website
- www.grizzhopper.com
- LOCATION
- Black Hills of Wyoming
- WEBSITE
- http://www.grizzhopper.com
- WLM
- grizzhopper
- YAHOO
- grizzhoppr
I have to make assumptions about two things that are unclear.
1. Your dealer performed the installation.
2. You are refering to the Secondary (fixed) sheave and not the "Primary" varaible sheave or the (wet) primary clutch. The one with the large spring behind it is the secondary fixed sheave.
If so, what you described is cause by an improper installation of the sheave assembly. If it is not in proper mesh with the shaft splines before torqueing the nut down, the plines will shear very soon after the first load is applyed. This is a very easy thing to screw up if you are not careful. (somewhat common mistake)
Too much torque is NOT the cause. An axle would break before you would shear those splines. Even on pavement with 27" tires, it would break traction before damaging those splines. The drive belt will buffer the power and torque very effectively.
I have modded a few Grizz engines myself further than just a pipe, cam, and a clutch kit. Several 686's and beyond with very high torque and power. I have never even heard of an excuse like that unless it was a dealer trying to cover his butt after a major screwup.
If the dealer did the installation and you took it back to them for repair, they will have already covered their tracks and it is too late for you to do anything about it to protect yourself.
They screwed up and don't want to fess up to it and have to pay for the part. If you have not already taken it back to that dealer, don't let them get away with that crap.
If you did the installation yourself and made the mistake yourself, then shame on you. It would be much more understandable if you did it yourself, because it sounds like you may not be all that familiar with the components involed. You wouldn't be expected to be if you don't do this type of work frequently.
Im not picking on you if it was you, I am trying to help you in case it wasn't you.
1. Your dealer performed the installation.
2. You are refering to the Secondary (fixed) sheave and not the "Primary" varaible sheave or the (wet) primary clutch. The one with the large spring behind it is the secondary fixed sheave.
If so, what you described is cause by an improper installation of the sheave assembly. If it is not in proper mesh with the shaft splines before torqueing the nut down, the plines will shear very soon after the first load is applyed. This is a very easy thing to screw up if you are not careful. (somewhat common mistake)
Too much torque is NOT the cause. An axle would break before you would shear those splines. Even on pavement with 27" tires, it would break traction before damaging those splines. The drive belt will buffer the power and torque very effectively.
I have modded a few Grizz engines myself further than just a pipe, cam, and a clutch kit. Several 686's and beyond with very high torque and power. I have never even heard of an excuse like that unless it was a dealer trying to cover his butt after a major screwup.
If the dealer did the installation and you took it back to them for repair, they will have already covered their tracks and it is too late for you to do anything about it to protect yourself.
They screwed up and don't want to fess up to it and have to pay for the part. If you have not already taken it back to that dealer, don't let them get away with that crap.
If you did the installation yourself and made the mistake yourself, then shame on you. It would be much more understandable if you did it yourself, because it sounds like you may not be all that familiar with the components involed. You wouldn't be expected to be if you don't do this type of work frequently.
Im not picking on you if it was you, I am trying to help you in case it wasn't you.
streetfighter
Newbie
- Joined
- May 2, 2005
- Messages
- 10
I'm sorry grizzhopper for not being clear enough about which clutch it was. First off the intallation was not done by my dealership it was done at home. Ok Iwas talking about the fixed sheave , the inner one with the splines on the primary. I'm sure the installation was done correctly the bike had about 10-15 hrs. of use on it afterwards. My dealer is just telling me what the yamaha rep told him. He was told that a stock bike would never damage that splines.So he naturally assumed that the bike had too much torque. Myself I thought this was a load of crap. the bike is fixed now I change the inner sheave and the cam so i'm starting fresh. Hopefully this was a flaw and it never happens again. I'm still going ahead with a bigbore kit in the fall. My buddies are going 686 but i'd like to go 727 have heard anything about J.E pistons I think their kit looks good. Their are so many companies now that offer stuff that I would like to know someone else has tried it out or heard about it.You said you did some bigbore kits how did you find them to be. Did they really change the bike? Well glad to have your info thanx
Grizzhopper
Extreme
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2004
- Messages
- 85
- Location
- Black Hills of Wyoming
- Website
- www.grizzhopper.com
- LOCATION
- Black Hills of Wyoming
- WEBSITE
- http://www.grizzhopper.com
- WLM
- grizzhopper
- YAHOO
- grizzhoppr
Ok, I see what you meant. Yes, lets just hope it was a manufacturing defect.
I have used JE, Wiseco, and even tried Athena over the years. My preference is still JE.
If you plan to go to 727, your talking about more serious modifications and a complete teardown and rebuid (the case has to be modded also). Going that extreme could have adverse affects on reliability.
IMO, the 686 with a good cam grind and K/W springs is the better choice. If set up properly, you can end up with very close to the same performance results.
I have used JE, Wiseco, and even tried Athena over the years. My preference is still JE.
If you plan to go to 727, your talking about more serious modifications and a complete teardown and rebuid (the case has to be modded also). Going that extreme could have adverse affects on reliability.
IMO, the 686 with a good cam grind and K/W springs is the better choice. If set up properly, you can end up with very close to the same performance results.
streetfighter
Newbie
- Joined
- May 2, 2005
- Messages
- 10
Thanx for the info on the 727 kit I wasn't aware that you had to do case mods. I thought that you just had to get your cylinder resleaved then bored. If you have some information on the kit I would appreciate anything you could tell me. I looked for some but know one has any details on it. Whats a respectable top end speed, I read about guys posting speeds like 65 mph and more is this for real? On a gravel road the best I ever radared was 57 with the mods that I have. Their are 5 grizzlies in our group and knowone even comes close to 65mph. We have a 800 sportsman with us and that bike ran 63mph. I even tried running on pavement to see if I could improve my speed but I got 1mph more. Don't get me wrong my speedo says 63mph but radar don't lie.
