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Racewerx Quick Adjust Coupler Block

TD Max

Lifetime Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2014
Messages
2,282
Location
Central WI/Hazelhurst WI
Anybody try this hand adjustable rear coupling block setup? Page 64 of the Yamaha P&A catalog.

It just bothers me that we can't make a simple tool free change on the trail. This kit has settings 1 and 2 with less coupling than setting 1 on the OE and 3,4,5 match the stock 3 settings and 6 is more coupling than stock. I've seen Cannondale warn about proper indexing when adjusting the OE ones. I wonder how well this one indexes?

SMA-8JWRR-B0-00




SMA-8JWRR-B0-00.jpg





 

Anybody try this hand adjustable rear coupling block setup? Page 64 of the Yamaha P&A catalog.

It just bothers me that we can't make a simple tool free change on the trail. This kit has settings 1 and 2 with less coupling than setting 1 on the OE and 3,4,5 match the stock 3 settings and 6 is more coupling than stock. I've seen Cannondale warn about proper indexing when adjusting the OE ones. I wonder how well this one indexes?

SMA-8JWRR-B0-00




SMA-8JWRR-B0-00.jpg




Looks good I might have to try one
 
Anybody try this hand adjustable rear coupling block setup? Page 64 of the Yamaha P&A catalog.

It just bothers me that we can't make a simple tool free change on the trail. This kit has settings 1 and 2 with less coupling than setting 1 on the OE and 3,4,5 match the stock 3 settings and 6 is more coupling than stock. I've seen Cannondale warn about proper indexing when adjusting the OE ones. I wonder how well this one indexes?

SMA-8JWRR-B0-00




SMA-8JWRR-B0-00.jpg






Holy crap are those pricey!!
 
I bought one and will be installing it today. I got it on sale but was still $130 at Powersports 1. A lot of money for a piece of plastic with a rod in the middle of it.
 
Installed one last winter. Thought it might turn by itself as little effort is required to adjust, but it didn't. Works great and very, very easy (like 2 seconds) to adjust.
 
Do you find yourself adjusting it for conditions. I coming back to Yamaha this year (ordered new viper), I found on my 2014 Etec 800 with R-Motion the couple made huge differences in handling and it was super easy (one button) to change. I would set it to most coupled setting for high speed (railed around corners) to least coupled when showing off or riding whooped trails, as it allowed front end to pop up easily. Wondering if on the viper this is the ticket, since it appears stock you need tools to adjust coupling. thanks!
 
Well you and I are a lot alike. I rode 800 Skidoo's for 10 years until last year and then popped on a Viper as I liked the ergos and fit for me on the sled. Really stable ride and standing position was perfect. Took it out for a test ride first with the 2015 skii's and they made the difference from the 2014 model. WRT to the coupler, I found it very useful for conditions and really, really easy to adjust ...... you just turn it with your hand (glove on or off) and there is almost NO resistance. It's a lot faster (2 seconds) than using the tool for the Skidoo to move the block setting (which was pretty easy itself).

It took me however a lot of time and experimenting to get the suspension right tho on the Viper ..... front end and back. But I have it now and it is excellent at high and low speeds and can eat the bumps with little bar back. Is it as good or better than the Skidoo? I'd have to say no. As you know, the R Motion is a dream to adjust for even the slightest change in conditions or carrying weight. The Viper isn't bad for rear end adjustments (rear spring preload/sag), but not as easy or quick as the R Motion. The front rear preload is a pain .... just back it right off if you have the RTX.

I am off to an appointment with Allan Ulmer late next week to have him tune my clutches. I turboed it (Hurricane), but am having a tough time getting it to properly run out and be consistent.

Also, if you run in really cold weather, the location and quality of the relays/fuses is the pits (2015). Don't know if they changed it for 2016, but the relay will actually freeze in cold weather and you can't easily pull it given the 2015 mounting location. So I moved mine down to the clutch cover and the problem is hopefully solved (more heat there and easy access). There is bracket that is available aftermarket now for this fix that mounts to the frame not the cover.

I bought this 4 stroke so I wouldn't have to buy a new sled every other year. But stock, is isn't nearly fast enough. The 8's will leave it way behind in any conditions very quickly.

True to form, I will keep this sled once I get it working right. But next year. will probably add a 1200X Skidoo on the XS chasis with R Motion.
 
For what it does to your sled,well worth the price!(even for litle plastic thing )
I love this product, you can tune your coupling in 2 second in the dark....
1,2,3 like OEM and 4,5,6 more transfert than oem

Coupling is one of the most IMPORTANT thing for trailriding ,beside gaz;)
 
Last edited:
Agreed!

I see the 2016's have the same mounting position for the fuse box. Unbelievable stupidity by Yamaha. Barnofparts has an aftermarket fix for this, but Yamaha should have done it for this year or redesigned the relay so it wouldn't freeze in cold weather.

Just got back from Ulmers (4,000k ride there and back). Very impresssed. Sled dynoed at 117 mph (105 probably on sno) with 24/50 gears, changed lower gear to a 46 and dynoed at 123 (about 115 on sno). Allen found 10 HP up to peak and then 5 HP for rest of power band. Amazing. After a year of screwing around with clutching, I'm finally ready with this 190 Hurricane turbo.
 
Anybody try this hand adjustable rear coupling block setup? Page 64 of the Yamaha P&A catalog.

It just bothers me that we can't make a simple tool free change on the trail. This kit has settings 1 and 2 with less coupling than setting 1 on the OE and 3,4,5 match the stock 3 settings and 6 is more coupling than stock. I've seen Cannondale warn about proper indexing when adjusting the OE ones. I wonder how well this one indexes?

SMA-8JWRR-B0-00

I have a 2015 Sr Viper LTX DX, it was a Demo sled, love it .... and it came with this on this already, but, to be honest, I do not really know/understand what it does ... would you mind explaining it some , want to get the most out of sled as I can :) thanks in advance Charlie


SMA-8JWRR-B0-00.jpg




 
The coupler block of any sort do just as name implies. When rear of skid is compressed the blocks engage rear scissor forcing skid up at front. This keeps skid on snow and can help traction. It also can help rear from bottoming since front skid shock is assisting rear when coupled. The gap between blocks and scissor is what adjust the point where above starts to occur. Personal preference on adjustment or whether to use it at all.
 


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