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APEX 06 said:It will help if you keep them clean.
Yes it will. Helps a lot.
Turn the idle up a bit too.
whits-end
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You might also try to sync the carbs. It makes a big difference on the 4-bangers in the RX-1, not sure about the 3-holers.
Bottom line is :the clutch doesn't cause it, the engine does. Exact same clutch was used for years in the 2-strokes, and they were relatively quiet. It's a symptom of engine vibes that's worse on the 4-stroke 3-holers (like cracked oil tanks) Best you can do is to mask it, as others have suggested. But they will always do it to some degree.
Bottom line is :the clutch doesn't cause it, the engine does. Exact same clutch was used for years in the 2-strokes, and they were relatively quiet. It's a symptom of engine vibes that's worse on the 4-stroke 3-holers (like cracked oil tanks) Best you can do is to mask it, as others have suggested. But they will always do it to some degree.
tedgoesfast
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rx1 clutch
what is rattling in the clutch weights buttons?
what is rattling in the clutch weights buttons?
whits-end
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Usually it's the plastic 'buttons' or 'shoes' in the guide towers. The Yamaha kit uses springs and o-rings behind the button, between the button and the spider to tighten up the slop. But in some cases it may make it so tight that the clutch sticks.
twomorestrokes
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whits-end said:But in some cases it may make it so tight that the clutch sticks.
And that's not good. I'd rather hear a rattle. As you said earlier, it's caused by the uneven 3 cyl engine pulses, not the clutch, as this same clutch has been quiet on the other sleds for many years. I had mine worked on per bulletin very early on. The improvement was very marginal and temporary. There are some unique quirks on these sleds that I've gotten used to years ago. Enjoy the thing.

Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Re: CLUTCH RATTLE
Is there any truth to my above comment about the clutch being loose on the end of the shaft?
Have any of you checked your clutch to see if there is a slight bit of play as well?
Irv said:djofwitsnd said:we have had 05, 06 and now have 2010 Vectors. All have had the annoying clutch rattle, that's yamaha. At the snowdeo in Colebrook NH this spring we tried the 2011 models, the power steering is great. I talked to the tech since the new sleds are without the clutch noise. He said it is an easy procedure to swap out what he called "buttons" to eliminate this noise. I will try it out on our 2010's late this summer. It doesnot affect the performance but it is annoying.
I read on here or another forum about the actual problem,, it is a loose fitting clutch/splines on end of the crank.
After I read that I checked mine and sure enough, the clutch does not fit snug/tight on the end, it is loose and can be moved slightly side to side.
I have never had a clutch off one of these sleds but I am thinking maybe a bit of grese in those splines might make a difference?
The only grease I know that would stay there would be Bel-Ray waterproof grease, that stuff is super sticky/tacky and thick.
Thoughts???
Is there any truth to my above comment about the clutch being loose on the end of the shaft?
Have any of you checked your clutch to see if there is a slight bit of play as well?
twomorestrokes
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Loose splines are not causing the rattle and I don't think there are any longevity issues with the splines. There are 3 cyl 4 stroke sleds with 40,000 miles on them. I'd be careful packing spinning clutch components with grease.


birkebeiner
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So in short, no fix for this? An Ulmer clutch kit will not help either, on the noise?
rxrider
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IRV - NO if the clutch is loose it will come off the cone end of the crank shaft.
twomorestrokes, there's no spline on the primary or anywhere around. There's a spline that the secondary goes onto, that is not where the rattle is coming from.
Like said earlier in the post, the primary rattles because of the strong power pulses from the engine, even at idle a 4stroker has quite some tork.
birkebeiner - there's no fix for it using the stock primary, but a hydraulic clutch may be out for the question because of the cost.
twomorestrokes, there's no spline on the primary or anywhere around. There's a spline that the secondary goes onto, that is not where the rattle is coming from.
Like said earlier in the post, the primary rattles because of the strong power pulses from the engine, even at idle a 4stroker has quite some tork.
birkebeiner - there's no fix for it using the stock primary, but a hydraulic clutch may be out for the question because of the cost.
twomorestrokes
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rxrider said:twomorestrokes, there's no spline on the primary or anywhere around. There's a spline that the secondary goes onto, that is not where the rattle is coming from.
I knew that but missed it.

The rattle with the stock clutch is inevitable. It has to do with the uneven engine firing pulses of the three cylinder 4 stroke during the engine revolution. Same type clutch, but the 4 cylinder and the 2 strokes ton't see the same firing pulses.
rxrider
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I totally agree with you on that one, it's inevitable like you said.
KenP
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How many miles on sled. I had same problem at 6400 miles & removed & rebuilt Drive Clutch & noise disappeared.
twomorestrokes
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Most of the 3 cyls have done it from day one. Had mine updated at 500 miles and it didn't last long. I live with it.
rxrider
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KenP - please add your location to your user profile, it's a site requirement.
rxrider
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Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
rxrider said:IRV - NO if the clutch is loose it will come off the cone end of the crank shaft.
twomorestrokes, there's no spline on the primary or anywhere around. There's a spline that the secondary goes onto, that is not where the rattle is coming from.
Like said earlier in the post, the primary rattles because of the strong power pulses from the engine, even at idle a 4stroker has quite some tork.
birkebeiner - there's no fix for it using the stock primary, but a hydraulic clutch may be out for the question because of the cost.
Where is this play coming from then?
I can slightly move my primary(front clutch so we are all on the same page) left anf right without the crank moving and fell play, are you saying it is loose on there?
To me, seeing how loose it is, seems like it would come right off without any clutch removal tools?
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