Ready to jump ship

[snocrazy]

Try a revalve possibly and some new suspension, even X-Klicks makes a diff. Your only limitation is your piggybank on these!

I agree 100% with the $$, I just want to make sure I spend it in the right place

 

[canoehead]

Think Big, Start small

 

[SRXSRULE2]

Snocrazy, by lowering your shock pressure you are not only lowering pre load but also ride height. So YES you're sled should feel less "tippy"

You can't go by everyone else's shock pressures, use them only as a guideline. The 09 nytro rtx se uses float X shocks as well, they are a totally different shock from which you have(regular float). If you feel 50 psi works, don't adjust too far from there. The pressure is basically your spring, it will effect compression and rebound but don't try to adjust it to do so. I'd leave the front for now, concentrate on the rear skid.

Small adjustments are key in every sled, or vehicle for that matter. Don't go from one extreme to the other or you won't find the sweet spot.

You have your springs on soft already so keep them there. Do you feel the sled is bottoming out and using all of its travel? Or is the suspension barely using any of its travel? Do you feel the bucking when you hit the bump (suspension compressing) or after (rebound)?

It did bottom out over 2 really big whoops today.. Going over some smaller bumps it did buck when I hit the bump. It feels like the rear is very soft.. There is tonnes of compression in the skid when I jump on, and as soon as i hit a bump, it compresses and tries to knock me off. Would adjusting the rebound help?

If you feel the rear is too soft, go one click stiffer on compression and try it. This will slow down the rate at which it compresses. But from what it sounds like, you are feeling the bucking after compression. So go a click stiffer or slower on rebound and try it. Picture it like jumping on a trampoline. When you come down and land on the trampoline and you don't bend your knee's (stiff compression) you will have a quick and bucking rebound because there is nothing to slow you down on the return up. If you absorb some of that shock in your knee's (softer compression) and slow down the rebound, it is more controlled. The faster the rear skid rebounds, the faster and harder it will want to buck you off the sled. Get the idea?

 

[snocrazy]

Snocrazy, by lowering your shock pressure you are not only lowering pre load but also ride height. So YES you're sled should feel less "tippy"

You can't go by everyone else's shock pressures, use them only as a guideline. The 09 nytro rtx se uses float X shocks as well, they are a totally different shock from which you have(regular float). If you feel 50 psi works, don't adjust too far from there. The pressure is basically your spring, it will effect compression and rebound but don't try to adjust it to do so. I'd leave the front for now, concentrate on the rear skid.

Small adjustments are key in every sled, or vehicle for that matter. Don't go from one extreme to the other or you won't find the sweet spot.

You have your springs on soft already so keep them there. Do you feel the sled is bottoming out and using all of its travel? Or is the suspension barely using any of its travel? Do you feel the bucking when you hit the bump (suspension compressing) or after (rebound)?

It did bottom out over 2 really big whoops today.. Going over some smaller bumps it did buck when I hit the bump. It feels like the rear is very soft.. There is tonnes of compression in the skid when I jump on, and as soon as i hit a bump, it compresses and tries to knock me off. Would adjusting the rebound help?

If you feel the rear is too soft, go one click stiffer on compression and try it. This will slow down the rate at which it compresses. But from what it sounds like, you are feeling the bucking after compression. So go a click stiffer or slower on rebound and try it. Picture it like jumping on a trampoline. When you come down and land on the trampoline and you don't bend your knee's (stiff compression) you will have a quick and bucking rebound because there is nothing to slow you down on the return up. If you absorb some of that shock in your knee's (softer compression) and slow down the rebound, it is more controlled. The faster the rear skid rebounds, the faster and harder it will want to buck you off the sled. Get the idea?

I am getting the picture now.. I will try that and report back. Thanks!

 

[cannondale27]

To see if your rear shock is dead remove it from sled and compress it.Let it extend and listen to it.It should not sound gravely and should extend slowly all the way out on its own.If it doesnt it needs a rebuild for sure.This may not show a shock needing a simple refresh or revalve though.

 

[Boston RX1]

My biggest complain in Yamaha sleds is rebound. This will pobably require a revolved which is cheap once you get the shock out. Don't give up. I love this sled, I own two.

 

[SRXSRULE2]

My biggest complain in Yamaha sleds is rebound. This will pobably require a revolved which is cheap once you get the shock out. Don't give up. I love this sled, I own two.

Is there not enough rebound adjustment? Or is it just totally out in left field in terms or valving?

I totallly agree, sending all 4 shocks out to get rebuilt and revalved would be optimal. I just wouldn't do it right in the start of our riding season which is short as it is.

 

[woolyviper]

did someone take the sway bar off or disconnect it?

 

[snocrazy]

did someone take the sway bar off or disconnect it?

Sway bar is still there

 

[Supa Dexta]

Maybe the sled is fine, and just too big for you.

 

[snocrazy]

Maybe the sled is fine, and just too big for you.

Just to clear things up.. Im 6'2 and 150+ gear.. I may not weigh much but I am no wimp. I have ridden 2 other Nytros, most recent last season 2010 se 121" That sled was fine, I had a blast. No way I would have bought a Nytro without trying it first. I am simply asking for help tuning mine in from the pros on this site. I am not bashing don't take this the wrong way.

 

[Grimm]

If I remember correctly, the 2008 Nytro torsion springs are too heavy duty...Yammy softened them the following years. I had a Nytro for 4 seasons and I never was able to get rid of the harsh rebound kick. It is not a long touring type sled, but a rough trail ditch banger.

A couple of other adjustments you could try to make it feel softer is to max out the weight transfer. For steering tippiness and crisper handling, pull up one hole on the rear limiter straps(s) and relocate the swaybay on the lower A arms to the stiffer position, which is the most forward mount hole. It helped lighten the steering as well.

Again, this sled was never designed to be a high mileage, groomed trail touring sled.

 

[racingronnie]

Couple things to try. 1st thing going to a Nytro is back off on the throttle slowly and use your brake and body to turn. Woody dully carbides will help take the wiggle out and eliminate the darting with stock ski's. My experience with the three Nyto's I have owned is the harder you ride it the better it is. Have fun

 

[AKrider]

Push up and down on the rear grab bar of your sled. If it feels bouncy and the rear moves up and down with little resistance then your shock(s) are blown. If that's the case you'll destroy the rear skid if you continue to ride it as the suspension components will get hammered apart from the constant topping and bottoming out.

As for handling you've got an '08 and they suck. I gave up and bought another brand but there are now quite a few aftermarket products that can improve the Nytro. Spend some time searching the forum and read reviews on aftermarket spindles and a-arm kits. Those parts are where the real handling improvements will come from.

 

[snocrazy]

Push up and down on the rear grab bar of your sled. If it feels bouncy and the rear moves up and down with little resistance then your shock(s) are blown. If that's the case you'll destroy the rear skid if you continue to ride it as the suspension components will get hammered apart from the constant topping and bottoming out.

As for handling you've got an '08 and they suck. I gave up and bought another brand but there are now quite a few aftermarket products that can improve the Nytro. Spend some time searching the forum and read reviews on aftermarket spindles and a-arm kits. Those parts are where the real handling improvements will come from.

It does move up and down with some resistance... what kind of resistance am I looking for? It does take some force. I don't think it has been bottoming out. Only 2 times over huge ruts. I am assuming if I can adjust the rear this will be under control?
I agree, the handling does suck on the 08. I have managed to get the darting under control, and am relatively happy with cornering now.