Real world results and Questions about my '05 RX-1

[QCRider]

Ok guys, I am sure that doing all of this will help my condition. I have ripped apart everything on an RX-1 EXCEPT, the Carbs, Clutches and Motor. How tough is this? Will the shop manual walk me through it pretty well? Other than a clutch puller, what special tools would I need to adjust the carbs. I know I need a manometer to sync the carbs, what else?

Also, for jetting, I assume there basically is no damage possible here since richer is always safer.

All told what kind of time will I need to have available to do all of this? Meaning, washers on seconday, OSO Spring on the Primary, pulling the carbs, cleaning pilots, installing new jets?

 

[QCRider]

When you guys talk about the fuel screws, are these the same screws you adjust when synching with a manometer?

 

[snowbeast]

Ok guys, I am sure that doing all of this will help my condition. I have ripped apart everything on an RX-1 EXCEPT, the Carbs, Clutches and Motor. How tough is this? Will the shop manual walk me through it pretty well? Other than a clutch puller, what special tools would I need to adjust the carbs. I know I need a manometer to sync the carbs, what else?

Also, for jetting, I assume there basically is no damage possible here since richer is always safer.

All told what kind of time will I need to have available to do all of this? Meaning, washers on seconday, OSO Spring on the Primary, pulling the carbs, cleaning pilots, installing new jets?

Well it sounds like you are in good hands as blackjohn and bob miller are steering you in the right direction,i will just add this,it does not cost much and works better than the washers,take your stock helix off,have someone in a machine shop chuck it up in a lathe and cut .100-.125 thou. off the hub that holds the bushing in,and reinstall with the yammi silver secondary spring wrapped at 80 degrees,just this mod will add an overdrive ratio to your sled,if you have marked your primary clutch sheeves before this mad,to see where it rides up,the same mark after this mad will clean more of the mark off,which means you are now shifting out further,which means more top end,and you dont really need to remove you front primary clutch to remove weights or spring,just take the center bolt out and remove 6 10mm screws holding the cover on,and add and remove as you like.

 

[suprfst]

When you guys talk about the fuel screws, are these the same screws you adjust when synching with a manometer?

Nope the fuel screws are on the bottom of the carbs towards the front .Use small straight screwdriver to adjust.You have to pull carbs off and flip upside down to get at them.Turn them in (clockwise)untill they lightly bottom then back out the desired amount of turns.

 

[QCRider]

Ok. So what is the desired number of turns? I have seen where Freddie Klies says 2 - 2.5 turns with the ECP kit, but I have not seen a number for a sotck RX-1. It would seem like you would want to be right the first time if possible, since you have to pull them off the sled to adjust them again.

 

[Indy]

I just had to re-adjust my screws, the dumba$$ dealer put the stock jets back in. He had them turned out to 3. Mine with the ECP was at 2.5, and was a little rich, so I set mine at 2. I have the ECP, the big question is "WHY DON'T YOU"?

 

[QCRider]

I just had to re-adjust my screws, the dumba$$ dealer put the stock jets back in. He had them turned out to 3. Mine with the ECP was at 2.5, and was a little rich, so I set mine at 2. I have the ECP, the big question is "WHY DON'T YOU"?

Well Indy, I had really thought about doing it up until this past week when I finally got the answer to one question that nobody on this board could give me a real answer to. It is TOO LOUD. I don't like the way it sounds at all. I kinda figured all along that it had to be louder since that is what the Airbox is for. It was louder than a stock 2 stroke, didn't like it.

 

[black john]

tip

here is some thing to check thats not in the servise manual hook a hose to the black J shape tube on the top of the carbs and with the top off of the air bao or fillters off just blow in to the hose to nake shure that you carbs open at the same time and open. some have found that the slides dont open all of the way and have had to litely sand the slides to get them to open fully this after testing with fingers and found no problem.

 

[QCRider]

You guys really have to understand that I have never taken either the primary or secondary of any clutch apart. Nor have I removed the carb rack on an RX-1. When I get the secondary apart is it going to be obvious where to put the lock washers? black john, which spring positions are you using in the secondary? Will they be obvious as well?

What about the primary? I understand now that it is not necessary to pull it in order to change the spring, and that's good. Is there anything particular about the way the spring sits in there that I need to know? Is it going to jump apart when I remove the bolts?

For the Carb rack, other than the obvious need to remove the airbox, what else do I need to know about removing the rack? I think I am going to buy a manometer since there will be another RX-1 to do this to besides my own. Will the manometer also work on a Vector with just 3 carbs? I assume the idea is the same as far as fuel screws, and synching and floats and making sure the jets are clean... What about float bowl measurements? What is this all about, and what are you measuring?

Anyway, thanks for the ongoing education. I would really love to have my dealer do all of this, but I just don't trust them and I know if I do it myself I will know it is right and I will learn something too.

 

[QCRider]

By the way, PICTURES would be VERY helpful if anyone has any...

 

[NY_Nytro]

The spring in the primary just sits in a groove, there is no orientation to it. The primary cover will require some pressure to hold as it comes off but it's not like a mouse trap or anything. I can hold pressure on it with one hand and remove the bolts with a socket with the other hand.

The secondary spring has tabbed ends that sit into numbered holes. Just verify the numbers before hand so you can reinstall it properly on reassembly

 

[ReX]

QCRider, I'm not sure there really is anything wrong with yours. I'm convinced mine is performing as well as any other RX-1 out there (at least everyone I've run with).

Yesterday I rode with someone who's 05 RX-1 has been set up by Bender Racing. His sled is fast and he doesn't get beat by many sleds. We didn't actually line up from a stop, but top speed on the river and acceleration from very low speeds we were kneck and kneck. He didn't pull ahead of me at all.

On the snow covered river I was seeing 175 kph (109 mph) on the speedometer and I had it up to 190 kph (119 mph) on a long icy field.

Last year with it all stock (including no studs) it was much slower. This year with the Ulmer Racing clutch kit it is much faster. I think most of the improvement was in the clutching.

I also checked/adjusted my pilot screws to 2 turns out and set the idle to 1450 rpm. It idles perfectly now also. Fuel economy is still good with a range of about 250 kms (150 miles) per tank (35 liters to fill or 9.2 gallons) if conditions are very hard packed.

BTW, I wasn't at Bernard's last week either.

 

[QCRider]

ReX, I know you weren't at Bernard's, I was there. I was noting that you guys weren't.

I don't know that there is anything wrong with my RX-1 either. I would just like a little more top end, and that sounds pretty easy. However, I do seem to smell unburnt fuel and my gas mileage isn't what I would have expected. So I would like to at least check the fuel screws, and do the spring and washer thing with the clutch. Were your fuel screws misadjusted when you checked them?

 

[ReX]

From the factory my fuel screws were all over the place. My dealer set them to 2 turns during the first checkup and later, trying to get rid of a rough idle (on 3 cylinders) I turned the one that was misfiring to 2 1/8 turns. With the one at 2 1/8 I noticed it smelt a little rich at idle but that could have been my imagination.

When I installed the clutch kit I set them all at 2 turns per Allen Ulmers recommendation. I found the real fix for the idle was to drop it below 1500 (some sort of timing advance occurs at 1500 and it doesn't idle smoothly).

Let me know if you have any trips planned for Quebec near us. Maybe we can get together again and compare notes/sled performance.

 

[snowbeast]

By the way, PICTURES would be VERY helpful if anyone has any...

Do a search on the apex side,as allen ulmer did a pic list for his clutch kit,he takes you thru both clutchs step by step..