Really confused trying to confirm proper skid bolt torque

[steveg_nh]

So I learned a long time ago that tightening until you can't tighten anymore can get you into a lot of trouble (snapped bolts). When working with nuts and bolts, where a broken bolt or ruined threads could be a nightmare, my torque wrenches are my best friend. They are properly calibrated, and I have all 3 drives, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2.

Anyway, I am FINALLY putting the skid back together for my Attak, and I wanted to confirm the torque settings for some of the areas I had to remove to do what I had to. I've been through the service manual and the 3 supplement manuals trying to find the values and have had limited success. Some are listed, some aren't, some contradict, etc. Confusing. And where I can't find a value, I assumed the torque table is where I would go, but knowing what I know about torque, some of them just don't seem right (too light given other values required in the general area on the skid). So back to the experts I come pleading for help.

So here's a picture of my skid, with all the nuts and bolts I'm trying to confirm the torque for, as well as my description of the part, and the value I think it should be, if I was able to find one.

Can anyone assist and fill in the blanks, or tell me if I have some of them wrong? Thank you so much all!

A: Bolt and nut where mono connects to the upper part of rear arm (whatever its called)
B: Bolts where the rear arm connects to tunnel, 61 ft lbs
C: Bolts where front W arm connects to tunnel up front, 52 ft lbs
D: Bolts and nuts where lower part of W arm connects to slide rails
E: Bolt and nut where front of transfer rod connects to bottom of W arm
F: Upper boggie wheel axle (not attached to skid) where it connects to tunnel mounting bracket, 61 ft lbs
G: All boggie wheel bolts and nuts, 52 ft lbs
H: Bolts and nuts where rear arm connects to slide rails
I: Front cross brace bolts (loctite should be used)

And should loctite be used where skid attaches to tunnel? The earlier service manual says it should, but I've never done that in the past.

As you can see, many torque values could not be found! The earlier models in the manuals, pre Attak (so not the supplements), had some values all over the diagrams, but the later supplements do not and since the suspensions are a bit different, I don't want to guess. I don't want to break anything. I've had enough issues.

Thank you!

 

[thor452]

sorry bud no help from me this time for anything short of head and rod bolts/nuts I use my calibrated arm and if it seems like an area where it might shake loose I use blue locktite.

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks. Weird that the values are so elusive.

 

[gitrdun]

Are there any numbers on page 657 to 660 of the 06-10 Apex service manual that help? I have 52 written down for transfer rod, not sure where I found that. Those torques are dry threads. Just an added note, I find that 54 ft. lbs. sometimes crushes the collar behind the wheel slightly on the rear axle, so I reduced it to 50 with no problems.

 

[steveg_nh]

I didn't see any. But i think I got it figured out.

It looks like 52 pounds for W arms, transfer rod mounts, and mono mounts. 42 pounds for all boggie wheels. Ask me how I know it's not 52 pounds on the boggie wheels as the service manual states? SNAP! Yup. But before I tried it I made sure I had a spare bolt, which I did. So all fixed up.

The manual says 61 ft lbs everywhere the skid and floating axle mounts to the tunnel. Hope that's right!

 

[Pete_man26]

Right from my manual. GT and ER should be the same as they are both mono suspension.

 

[steveg_nh]

Doh! You know, I have that list, and didn't scan through it. Now I feel like a dope. Weird to see some different values between the Attak and Apex though.

Looks like I went a bit heavy on a couple, only on the shock to the pivot arms. I'll loosen and redo.

What is the sliding frame mentioned as a connection between both the front and rear pivot arms?

 

[Pete_man26]

Ya, I'm not entirely sure, it's a bit unclear, take a look at this though off the parts fiche. I think they are referring to the bolt that holds the slider to the rail.

The apex GT and ER will be the same as the Attak GT and ER. The RX10RTRL is a Apex RTX with the other suspension. I'm not sure which suspension the mountain has though.

Use to work at the Yamaha dealer in parts first and then service, where a lot of my knowledge comes from.

 

[steveg_nh]

Thanks. And yes, that's the conclusion I came to as well, the actual rail itself. Skid is in and all done...Thanks for the help all.