
DigitalFusion
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Hey All,
When I picked up my phazer fx the rear shock on the skid was already out as the PO intended on sending it out to be revalved cause he said it was too stiff. I dont want to have to put it back in just to ride it and see how it rides, I'd rather just take it over to a local guy and have it re-valved. I've never had a shock revalved, so Im not really sure what I would need to ask for? I did a few searches here and everyone says to revalve it, but they dont really say what that means.
Do I just take it in and have it revalved for a certain rider weight and call it good? On my apex with a ZX2 I wish it had less rebound cause it seems to kick the arse end up in the air over the rough stuff, but I have no idea with the phazer. For those that have had to rear redone, what did you do?
When I picked up my phazer fx the rear shock on the skid was already out as the PO intended on sending it out to be revalved cause he said it was too stiff. I dont want to have to put it back in just to ride it and see how it rides, I'd rather just take it over to a local guy and have it re-valved. I've never had a shock revalved, so Im not really sure what I would need to ask for? I did a few searches here and everyone says to revalve it, but they dont really say what that means.
Do I just take it in and have it revalved for a certain rider weight and call it good? On my apex with a ZX2 I wish it had less rebound cause it seems to kick the arse end up in the air over the rough stuff, but I have no idea with the phazer. For those that have had to rear redone, what did you do?
porkchop
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Any good shock guy will ask you your weight, riding style and what you want out of it.
He should be able to get an idea from that on what shims & such BUT sometimes it's not always right on the first try- be patient.
I've had all 4 of mine re-valved, skid in/ out for the past 2 years (lack of snow) but finally happy this season.
I have a 200# center shock spring, rears redone for a 300# rider (yes, a portly guy), run the factory springs w/ blocks set on high. Bottom out once in a great while on real bigger stuff, and the #*$&@ end finally stays put more with numerous rebound adjustments.
Suspension set up is a game of tweeking here, back to there & trying it 75 different ways till your happy. I spent the good part of a day on actual trails riding hard to medium just adjusting & such.
Real world is alot different than the yard or a field...
Good luck, you'll get it.
He should be able to get an idea from that on what shims & such BUT sometimes it's not always right on the first try- be patient.
I've had all 4 of mine re-valved, skid in/ out for the past 2 years (lack of snow) but finally happy this season.
I have a 200# center shock spring, rears redone for a 300# rider (yes, a portly guy), run the factory springs w/ blocks set on high. Bottom out once in a great while on real bigger stuff, and the #*$&@ end finally stays put more with numerous rebound adjustments.
Suspension set up is a game of tweeking here, back to there & trying it 75 different ways till your happy. I spent the good part of a day on actual trails riding hard to medium just adjusting & such.
Real world is alot different than the yard or a field...
Good luck, you'll get it.

yam177
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Digital you have one of the BEST shock guys in the state right near your house. Contact Bruce at Beeline
Don't know if Bruce has a website DF, but here's his facebook page: B-Line Control
Another local guy you could try: DeyCore Enterprises
Another local guy you could try: DeyCore Enterprises


These guys are pointing you in the right direction.The shop you take it to will hopefully have a good baseline and a guarantee for if you dont like it.If its not perfect when revalved dont get angry just give it back for them to try again.Nobody rides the same and conditions you ride in might be different than his baseline so as long as the guy is willing to try again thank him.The sled setup and shock adjustment part is your responsibility though but is rewarding so fun.I would say if you are 160 lbs or less shoot for a shock that works with torsions on full soft.It should never bottom or if it does it should be very light yet it should still ride plush in the small stuff.That is controlled by the compression valving.It should not kick ever.That is controlled by the rebound stack.When it is right you may notice a slight kick very slight if you go all the way stiff on torsion adjuster.You want rebound as fast as possible without kicking.

DigitalFusion
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yam177 said:Digital you have one of the BEST shock guys in the state right near your house. Contact Bruce at Beeline
OVR4D said:Don't know if Bruce has a website DF, but here's his facebook page: B-Line Control
Holy crap! He is seriously a couple of hundred yards from where I drive on a daily basis to daycare for our youngest! You have no idea how many times I have drove past Bruces place wondering what B-Line was. The sign in front of his house doesnt say anything about suspension. I was going to go to this guy over in stacy/wyoming area cause my buddies have used him before and liked what they got, but I think I am going to give Bruce a shot. How is his pricing? Will he do what Cannon was talking about where if the valving doesnt work for me I can bring it back?
cannondale27 said:These guys are pointing you in the right direction.The shop you take it to will hopefully have a good baseline and a guarantee for if you dont like it.If its not perfect when revalved dont get angry just give it back for them to try again.Nobody rides the same and conditions you ride in might be different than his baseline so as long as the guy is willing to try again thank him.The sled setup and shock adjustment part is your responsibility though but is rewarding so fun.I would say if you are 160 lbs or less shoot for a shock that works with torsions on full soft.It should never bottom or if it does it should be very light yet it should still ride plush in the small stuff.That is controlled by the compression valving.It should not kick ever.That is controlled by the rebound stack.When it is right you may notice a slight kick very slight if you go all the way stiff on torsion adjuster.You want rebound as fast as possible without kicking.
I am under 160, although with gear I'd prolly be slightly over. I should set the torsion cams all the way to soft, and have the rear valved to work with that setting with my weight, for rough trails (what we ride 90% of the time)? What about the front skid shock? I dont think there is any adjustment there at all, since my FX has the base model shock in the fronts and the front skid.
yam177
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Call him he will tell you. I can't speak for him but he knows his stufdf. He is not cheap but then again his stuff works!! He was Yamaha's Snocross suspension tech back in the day
Can't speak for Bruce at B-Line either ... but I'm fairly certain DeyCore provides re-valving at no charge for custom built shocks (don't know if they would do the same if they were to re-valve your OE shock). Don't hesitate to call both places, as both are very good shops.
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